Soft top/frame Removal

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satvir
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Post Wed Aug 26, 2015 5:02 pm

Need to get my soft top along with the frame off.

I recall something about only 4 bolts holding it in etc.

But just wandered if anybody had any pics of details etc.

Sat
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Post Wed Aug 26, 2015 5:23 pm

Uplug the cable on the nearside, and undo 3 bolts each side, being careful to keep the number of shims correct for each location, and off comes the softtop. No photos, but its very easy.
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satvir
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Post Fri Aug 28, 2015 11:57 am

So 6 bolts in total, 3 on each side.

Do the rear door cards need to be removed?
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Post Fri Aug 28, 2015 3:37 pm

satvir wrote:So 6 bolts in total, 3 on each side.

Do the rear door cards need to be removed?
Yes, 6 in total, and easier to remove rear door cars.

Image

Image
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Post Fri Aug 28, 2015 8:41 pm

diable wrote:Its fiddly but easily doable just make sure you have some extension bars.
Yes, we've done it eh Diable!
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Post Fri Aug 28, 2015 9:43 pm

diable wrote:
Z3I wrote:
diable wrote:Its fiddly but easily doable just make sure you have some extension bars.
Yes, we've done it eh Diable!
Yep and then I did one with Gavla so am a dab hand at swaps now.
Softop profi!
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satvir
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Post Sun Sep 13, 2015 12:00 pm

Thanks for the advice. Was a bit fiddly but a nice and easy job overall.
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satvir
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Post Sun Sep 27, 2015 9:03 pm

The new roof isnt sitting right. When pulled out, the pins are slightly short of the recesses in the windscreen. The front latches do lock in, but only with a lot of force.

I counted the shims and put them back the way they were with the old frame/roof so assumed it would sit the same. Ive had a look at BMWs instructional videos on roof maintenance etc, so do i go back check measurements and adjust the roof adding/taking away shims as needed? Is there any where else the roof can be adjusted apart from the three shims on each side?

Another problem as arisen with my (Weismann) hardtop it also isnt sitting right. Locates on rear pins fine, but then one latch will turn nicely and lock in, the other side wont. Same with the locking handles on the front towards the windscreen. Never had problems with the hardtop before, the horse shoe was locked down on both sides.

Any help appreciated
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Post Sun Sep 27, 2015 9:29 pm

You need to know the shim count from the car it was removed from, not what you had on your own car.
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satvir
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Post Sun Sep 27, 2015 9:33 pm

That will be difficult finding out. i would have assumed all the frames were the same.
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satvir
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Post Sun Sep 27, 2015 9:42 pm

Hardtop has never been a problem, only after this soft top and frame swap over. Both arent sitting right. Im
guessing the roof is a matter of revisting the shims. But i cant see why the ill fitting soft top would have an effect on the soft top.

I'm from the West midlands. Bham
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satvir
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Post Sun Sep 27, 2015 10:12 pm

Exactly as stated above. Removed three bolts each side, counted the shims, swapped new roof over.
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Post Sun Sep 27, 2015 11:05 pm

Exactly, soft top i can make fit. With the shims etc. It went on fine, folds and opens fine too. So i doubt its buckled in any way. I'll just have to revisit it, take it all out, offer it up to were latches locate nicely then tighten it all up with appropriate amount of shims.

Then see if hard top sits locks in smoother. Thats the main mystery
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Post Mon Sep 28, 2015 9:28 am

Again, is there any way other way to adjust the soft top apart from the shims on each side?

I'm just going to try and be systematic about it. Remove soft top again, check measurements for two rear shims on each side according to BMW maintenance video, adjust as required.

Still have original frame so will compare the two, checking hole diameters, centres etc. and re fit.

Still not sure why the hard top was to difficult to lock in. it located on the rear pins fine. I've just got it sitting on at the moment, not forced any of the lock handles.
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Post Mon Sep 28, 2015 12:15 pm

The new softtop will be more difficult to fit, as there is no "give" in the material. Is it nearly there, or a long way off location?

The hardtop fitting has no adjustment at all, but I have found that the BMW OEM hardtops are a lot easier to fit than the Wiesmann hardtops. BMW OEM were better engineered to fit, being able to locate the rear pins first in the fittings, fit hardtop, lock down at front, then fit hook nuts. The Wiesmann has to be fitted carefully so as not to damage the fittings, and its heavier, 30kg against 23 kg. Lift the hardtop on carefully, locate the headrail and gently lower the pins into the sockets, but dont lock down. Lock the headrail first, then lockdown the rear, putting a lot of pressure on the top of the hardtop, so that the levers and pins are doing as little work as possible.

The only times I have seen real problems in fitting the hardtop is when the car has been involved with a shunt sometime in its life, and the car is no longer exactly square. Finding that fact out is not very pleasant, little you can do about it.
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Post Mon Sep 28, 2015 12:54 pm

Sorry when I said new, it's new to me. it's a second hand used roof. It's nearly there! the front lock handles are just very tight, way too tight for normal operation I'd say. Its as if it needs to be moved a few mm forward (towards windscreen) and down.

That's exactly how it feels with the hard top, as if the vehicle isn't "straight". But nothing is recorded on the car. It locates fine, but then only one latch handle can be tightened on either side (front and back)

It's been MOT's many times and on the ramp with my mechanic who has restored many e30's. There's no evidence of accident damage, I'm sure of it. I've had the hard top off/on in the past without any issues. Only thing that's changed is an interior swap and soft top/frame swap.

I'll take the hardtop off and take my time getting it in place. I was in a bit of rush and yes it does weigh a bit. And I just wanted it "on" so I could free up garage space up.

Could I have bent the top portion of the windscreen where the handles lock into? in order to lock the soft top down, a lot of force was needed. I even had my mated push it down from the top so I could lock it. just a thought?
Last edited by satvir on Mon Sep 28, 2015 2:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Mon Sep 28, 2015 1:17 pm

The Wiesmanns always need a helping push to get them in position. Take it all off again, bit of WD40 on all the holes and mechs, work them a bit to make sure they are nice and free, then lift it back on carefully. It should just sit there, unlocked, with the 2 front pins on the windscreen located, and the 2 rear pins in position. If they don't, I suspect your car is out of alignment from a previous accident. I dont think you can bend anything by fitted the secondhand hood.

First lock down the front, then the rear. Take your time, you will get it on.

To get one hardtop on a bent car once, we had to fix 3 points, then jack the car up on the corner that didnt fit to get the last point in. Not nice!

However, said that, how rusty is your car? The strength between front/rear of the car is seriously compromised by rust, and it can be, with the doors open, the case that the car might sag in the middle. Thats will be the extreme though.
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Post Mon Sep 28, 2015 2:02 pm

On the face of it, vehicle is fairly rust free. I had the carpet out this summer and there was only surface rust around the accelerator pedal mount. Underside again i would believe is ok, nothing on the surface like holes etc, jacking points are solid.

Even when this new used frame was offered up it didnt just slide onto the bolts. There centres were off, i presume the frame was to blame. Had to man handle it into place.
Last edited by satvir on Mon Sep 28, 2015 2:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Mon Sep 28, 2015 2:15 pm

I believe it currently is located on the rear two pins and the front two. It just wont do up all four latches with ease. I was in a rush and it was getting dark on me.

I'll take it off, apply wd40 and take my time putting it on.