Lumpy cold start.ADVICE needed
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ETERNITY
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On cold start it's lumpy and not smooth (cabin shakes.. Side to side). When temp gauge gets to 1/4 mark, then it runs ok but on lower revs is loosing power.
On slight acceleration it looses acceleration for couple of secs then accelerates, also kangaroos from 1200- 2500 revs.
It smells rich too and can smell fuel.
Its not idling very well after I have been for a run and goes up and down from 700-900 rpm, it sounds and feels rough like its not breathing properly
On slight acceleration it looses acceleration for couple of secs then accelerates, also kangaroos from 1200- 2500 revs.
It smells rich too and can smell fuel.
Its not idling very well after I have been for a run and goes up and down from 700-900 rpm, it sounds and feels rough like its not breathing properly
Last edited by ETERNITY on Tue Sep 29, 2015 9:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
325i sport tech 2, lach silver, 1989, BBS RS 16 split rims,
[URL=http://s878.photobucket.com/user/ETERNI ... 0.jpg.html][img]http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab35 ... 46cc30.jpg[/img
[URL=http://s878.photobucket.com/user/ETERNI ... 0.jpg.html][img]http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab35 ... 46cc30.jpg[/img
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Bump
Need advice ASAP.
Thanks
Need advice ASAP.
Thanks
325i sport tech 2, lach silver, 1989, BBS RS 16 split rims,
[URL=http://s878.photobucket.com/user/ETERNI ... 0.jpg.html][img]http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab35 ... 46cc30.jpg[/img
[URL=http://s878.photobucket.com/user/ETERNI ... 0.jpg.html][img]http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab35 ... 46cc30.jpg[/img
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jslot
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It's so many things that it could be. Vacuum leaks, tps, AFM, dizzy / rotor, temp sensor, tappets adjustment, plugs, fueling issue, injectors, etc, etc. When was the last time you gave it a good service / general inspection?

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It's had a very thorough service inc rotar, dizzy cap
Two things that come to mind which may have caused it
Afm lid has been missing for a long time
I was dissconecting the battery every night because there is a drain and it was making my batt go dead
Injectors haven't been done in my ownership and it's got 198k on the clock
Two things that come to mind which may have caused it
Afm lid has been missing for a long time
I was dissconecting the battery every night because there is a drain and it was making my batt go dead
Injectors haven't been done in my ownership and it's got 198k on the clock
325i sport tech 2, lach silver, 1989, BBS RS 16 split rims,
[URL=http://s878.photobucket.com/user/ETERNI ... 0.jpg.html][img]http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab35 ... 46cc30.jpg[/img
[URL=http://s878.photobucket.com/user/ETERNI ... 0.jpg.html][img]http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab35 ... 46cc30.jpg[/img
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BenHar
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What is "it"?
On motronic 1.3 disconnecting the battery means that the ECU has to relearn the setup each time.
Ben
On motronic 1.3 disconnecting the battery means that the ECU has to relearn the setup each time.
Ben
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It's a 325i sport 1989 mtech 2, guessing that it will be the 1.3 motrinic
This problem has suddenly appeared, everything was running great while I have had this drain but I have been disconnecting the battery every night for about 6 weeks while I work out what is causing the drain
This problem has suddenly appeared, everything was running great while I have had this drain but I have been disconnecting the battery every night for about 6 weeks while I work out what is causing the drain
325i sport tech 2, lach silver, 1989, BBS RS 16 split rims,
[URL=http://s878.photobucket.com/user/ETERNI ... 0.jpg.html][img]http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab35 ... 46cc30.jpg[/img
[URL=http://s878.photobucket.com/user/ETERNI ... 0.jpg.html][img]http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab35 ... 46cc30.jpg[/img
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sweep
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Its started getting misty and damp around these parts now,this could be playing havoc with the afm with no cover on.
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member

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Probably irrelevant to this fault, but the first thing I'd do is track down the electrical fault - just in case.
Smelling rich with fuel in the exhaust can equally be a sign of a rich or weak mixture. The hesitation and hunting idle suggests a weak mixture, but the lumpy warm up suggests a rich mixture.
Have you checked out the resistance of the 'blue' temp. sensor, at the ECU's plug, with the engine stone cold and at full working temp?
Take the plugs out and post up some pics. of the working ends. Remember which cylinder they came from.
Smelling rich with fuel in the exhaust can equally be a sign of a rich or weak mixture. The hesitation and hunting idle suggests a weak mixture, but the lumpy warm up suggests a rich mixture.
Have you checked out the resistance of the 'blue' temp. sensor, at the ECU's plug, with the engine stone cold and at full working temp?
Take the plugs out and post up some pics. of the working ends. Remember which cylinder they came from.
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Will update with blue temp sensor readings and pics of plugs
325i sport tech 2, lach silver, 1989, BBS RS 16 split rims,
[URL=http://s878.photobucket.com/user/ETERNI ... 0.jpg.html][img]http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab35 ... 46cc30.jpg[/img
[URL=http://s878.photobucket.com/user/ETERNI ... 0.jpg.html][img]http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab35 ... 46cc30.jpg[/img
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Update
I haven't had a chance to check the blue temp sensor, or plugs however this morning I went to start the car and it started and was engine was struggling, was misfiring badly and then switched off and now won't start. Shaking and shuddering as I was revving then just died off
Ticks over but no spark to the engine.
I also recall the last time my mechanic changed the plugs they were the incorrect ones. This was 6 months ago and it's been running fine.
I haven't had a chance to check the blue temp sensor, or plugs however this morning I went to start the car and it started and was engine was struggling, was misfiring badly and then switched off and now won't start. Shaking and shuddering as I was revving then just died off
Ticks over but no spark to the engine.
I also recall the last time my mechanic changed the plugs they were the incorrect ones. This was 6 months ago and it's been running fine.
Last edited by ETERNITY on Thu Oct 01, 2015 1:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.
325i sport tech 2, lach silver, 1989, BBS RS 16 split rims,
[URL=http://s878.photobucket.com/user/ETERNI ... 0.jpg.html][img]http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab35 ... 46cc30.jpg[/img
[URL=http://s878.photobucket.com/user/ETERNI ... 0.jpg.html][img]http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab35 ... 46cc30.jpg[/img
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BenHar
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Update:
Have removed spark plugs, and they were totally fouled, dark black in colour.
So is what must have been causing the problems.
The spark plugs were BP6ET
Replaced with the BPR6E, with the solid cap and there is still slight hunting.
Should I go with the BPR6ES
Thanks
Have removed spark plugs, and they were totally fouled, dark black in colour.
So is what must have been causing the problems.
The spark plugs were BP6ET
Replaced with the BPR6E, with the solid cap and there is still slight hunting.
Should I go with the BPR6ES
Thanks
325i sport tech 2, lach silver, 1989, BBS RS 16 split rims,
[URL=http://s878.photobucket.com/user/ETERNI ... 0.jpg.html][img]http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab35 ... 46cc30.jpg[/img
[URL=http://s878.photobucket.com/user/ETERNI ... 0.jpg.html][img]http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab35 ... 46cc30.jpg[/img
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Brianmoooore
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ETERNITY wrote:Will update with blue temp sensor readings
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Will check blue temp sensor, but 90% of the problem is sorted.
Thanks
Thanks
325i sport tech 2, lach silver, 1989, BBS RS 16 split rims,
[URL=http://s878.photobucket.com/user/ETERNI ... 0.jpg.html][img]http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab35 ... 46cc30.jpg[/img
[URL=http://s878.photobucket.com/user/ETERNI ... 0.jpg.html][img]http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab35 ... 46cc30.jpg[/img
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Ordered a new blue temp sensor and the correct spark plugs .
Another problem I have just noticed is that the car is burning oil. I recently had a oil change and checked the oil level and way above the max line.
Should I drain some oil and how much, or just by estimate.
Another problem I have just noticed is that the car is burning oil. I recently had a oil change and checked the oil level and way above the max line.
Should I drain some oil and how much, or just by estimate.
325i sport tech 2, lach silver, 1989, BBS RS 16 split rims,
[URL=http://s878.photobucket.com/user/ETERNI ... 0.jpg.html][img]http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab35 ... 46cc30.jpg[/img
[URL=http://s878.photobucket.com/user/ETERNI ... 0.jpg.html][img]http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab35 ... 46cc30.jpg[/img
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Brianmoooore
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DO NOT TOUCH THE BLUE SENSOR UNTIL YOU HAVE TESTED IT AT THE ECU PLUG! I repeat this time and time again on here. The quickest way to get in a complete mess with fault finding is to engage in random parts swapping. As an example, the "very thorough service" is the reason the wrong plugs are in there.
Drain a litre or two of oil, check the level, and put some back in if necessary.
Was the oil changed by whoever changed the plugs?? Time to find a new mechanic?
Drain a litre or two of oil, check the level, and put some back in if necessary.
Was the oil changed by whoever changed the plugs?? Time to find a new mechanic?
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Definatly agree with you there Brian, I wouldn't use that mechanic again. Can't even service a simple car with the correct parts. Same dude that did the plugs.
Ok will check the blue temp sensor readings and report back.
Ok will check the blue temp sensor readings and report back.
325i sport tech 2, lach silver, 1989, BBS RS 16 split rims,
[URL=http://s878.photobucket.com/user/ETERNI ... 0.jpg.html][img]http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab35 ... 46cc30.jpg[/img
[URL=http://s878.photobucket.com/user/ETERNI ... 0.jpg.html][img]http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab35 ... 46cc30.jpg[/img
