pretty sure i've read this happen to a few people but never read the thread .
any help is appreciated
m20 conversion no spark or fuel ?
Moderator: martauto
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magpie
- Old Skooler
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- Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2008 11:00 pm
- Location: Consett,Durham.
a mate of mine has just completed his first engine swap from m40 manual to m20 b25 from a manual car and he has no fuel or spark .
pretty sure i've read this happen to a few people but never read the thread .
any help is appreciated
pretty sure i've read this happen to a few people but never read the thread .
any help is appreciated
m52 b30 stroker 6-speed 318is Galvanizer
m42 touring
+ a yard full of scrap turds
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BenHar
- E30 Zone Addict
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- Location: Reigate, Surrey
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magpie
- Old Skooler
- Posts: 28035
- Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2008 11:00 pm
- Location: Consett,Durham.
sent him the link , fingers crossed
m52 b30 stroker 6-speed 318is Galvanizer
m42 touring
+ a yard full of scrap turds
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 49360
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Check engine to body earth strap is in place, and check pin 20 of the C101. Failure to do either of these results in expensive smoke.
Check that there is permanent power at pin 30 of the DME or fuel pump relays - easiest done by linking pins 30 and 87 of the pump relay, which will also test the fuel pump for you at the same time.
Check that power is reaching the plain green wire in the C101 when the ignition switch is on.
If all the above is OK, the reasons for no fuel pump and no spark will either be a problem with the ECU or the crank position sensor, and ECUs are generally reliable.
The socket that the crank sensor plugs into (under the diagnostic socket) is identical to that which the ignition lead pulse sensor plugs into, so there's a chance they are the wrong way around, otherwise the crank sensor's lead may have been damaged close to the sensor itself, it may have been cut through by the water pump pulley, if not fitted properly, or it may have just failed. Should be around 540 ohms across two of the pins of its plug.
Check that there is permanent power at pin 30 of the DME or fuel pump relays - easiest done by linking pins 30 and 87 of the pump relay, which will also test the fuel pump for you at the same time.
Check that power is reaching the plain green wire in the C101 when the ignition switch is on.
If all the above is OK, the reasons for no fuel pump and no spark will either be a problem with the ECU or the crank position sensor, and ECUs are generally reliable.
The socket that the crank sensor plugs into (under the diagnostic socket) is identical to that which the ignition lead pulse sensor plugs into, so there's a chance they are the wrong way around, otherwise the crank sensor's lead may have been damaged close to the sensor itself, it may have been cut through by the water pump pulley, if not fitted properly, or it may have just failed. Should be around 540 ohms across two of the pins of its plug.