where are all my lights ?.?

[johnono]

Heya. Bit pissed off..

Check control tells me
1) rear position lights fault
2) number plate lights fault.

I have no numberplate lights and the right side rear position light is out.

Also my cluster and geargnob lights are out

And my front headlight position lights are also out?!

All from one day to the next.

Bulbs are checked and changed.
Fuses 21 ,22 and 23 are changed.
Ive tried lookin at the check module in the boot left side , to see if there is anything..


Boot central locking servo is fine
Entire left rear cluster is fine

What dfuq is the problem please help me !

[Brianmoooore]

Everything that is out runs from fuse 23. There is a common feed wire from the fuse to the lighting switch, but from there on, the circuits divide into two groups. Fuse 23 has 12 volts + direct from the battery on its inner terminal, as have the whole row of fuses from 21 to 28 inclusive.
If you are sure fuse 23 is intact, then there is a fault with the grey/green wire running from the fuse, across behind the dash, to the lighting switch.

[johnono]

cheers Brian !
Would the rheostat itself cause a problem? The push pull function works no problem.

[johnono]

Mines a lefty , so the distance is pretty short
If i pull the light switch out, what should i be looking for with the grey/green wire?

[Brianmoooore]

Grey/green wire should have 12 volts + on it all the time.
Nothing to do with the rheostat - that's after the circuits split in the switch.The tail light and front parking light are on one circuit, and the number plate lights and dash lights on the other, but all run from fuse 23.
The reason for the split into two circuits is so that the parking light switch on the indicator stalk can switch on just the essential front and rear light, leaving the number plates and dash off.

[johnono]

You are the man

Ok , ill measure for the constant 12
If im getting 12 to the switch connector , and its not going further , then a new switch?

[johnono]

Brian , found this,
Can you confirm?

" PostPosted: Wed Aug 17, 2011 9:46 am Post subject: re Reply with quote
Yes the main light switch on the dash. Before you pull the switch, pull the connector off it and connect the pins....pin 7 to 1 then 5 then 8. if the lights come on, switch is the problem, if not keep looking.
"

[johnono]

No power to the fuse on 23
Next step, pull switch and check gy/gn wire connection to switch

[Brianmoooore]

No power to the fuse on 23

To which pin of 23?

[johnono]

Sorry Brian , you lost me mate.
Which pin?

But stangest thing happened.. Starded the car today. No problem at all
All worked
Tried the 10 times test.. And it kept working .. So could it be a loose connection behind the switch?

[Brianmoooore]

Fuse 23 has two pins (or blades). The one nearest the middle of the fusebox is 'in' and the one closest to the edge of the fusebox is 'out'.
It would be odd if there's no power at the inner pin, since that is in a line of eight adjacent inner pins which are all soldered to the same piece of copper circuit board track, which is connected directly to the battery, and we know that the other fuses are receiving power.
There's a remote possibility that the fuse holder has cracked away from the copper track (known as a dry joint), but that would fit in with you saying that there was no power at fuse 23, and with the "self repairing" phenomenon.
To check, you'll have to lift up the deck of the fusebox and take a look. The deck is held down by three self tapping screws - one outside, one inside and obvious, and the third also inside, but under a relay. Do not touch the cap bolt you can see.
There are lots of wires connected to the back of the deck, so it needs to be pulled up slowly and carefully - there's just enough spare wire. When you put things back together, ensure that the one plug that connects to the board is pushed fully in place.

[johnono]

Cheers lads

[LucasE30]

Have you tried the rear light check relay situated in the boot (left hand side of a touring)?