Clutch won't engage

Post Fri Aug 28, 2015 12:47 pm

The clutch slipped and then after that It won't Engage.

New clutch or could it be master because I have had the slave done.

Thanks

Post Fri Aug 28, 2015 1:09 pm

Did you change the slave cylinder recently? They are usually best replaced as a pair.

Post Fri Aug 28, 2015 1:12 pm

About 2 years ago, only did the slave

Post Fri Aug 28, 2015 1:18 pm

How's the fluid level? Any damp patches around the clutch pedal?
When/how did the clutch slip?

Post Fri Aug 28, 2015 1:38 pm

There is Damp patches and the fluid level is low, on the measuring stick it was 0.5mm

Thanks, I appreciate your help.

Post Fri Aug 28, 2015 1:40 pm

Slipping in 1 and 2nd gear over 2k rpm,last 2 weeks really

Post Fri Aug 28, 2015 2:00 pm

Top the fluid up and keep an eye on the level over a few days, but if you've got oily damp patches under the pedal it sounds like the master cylinder is on its way.

How old is the clutch?
After you've driven the car for a bit to get things warm, you can try for clutch slip by driving at 25-30mph in 4th gear and accelerate hard - the revs and road speed should rise accordingly. If the the revs increase quicker than would be expected compared to the road speed = new clutch time.

Post Fri Aug 28, 2015 2:22 pm

Ok to be honest it doesn't feel like the clutch is slipping in 4th and it accelerates accordingly.

The car is stranded and my question is how can I get it engage gears so I can get it home without towing.

It's two streets away.

Post Fri Aug 28, 2015 2:46 pm

Read through the thread, and I'm still not clear if this is a clutch that won't engage, as the title says, or one that won't disengage.
Lack of fluid won't make any difference to one that won't engage, and neither is there any way of driving this even a short distance.
If it won't disengage then the problem might well be fluid related, although 'lack of' will be just a symptom and not the root cause, and it is perfectly possible to drive the car by starting it in first gear, rev. matching as you change gear, and just pushing it out of gear when you need to stop.

Post Fri Aug 28, 2015 2:46 pm

When you say wont engage... You mean you can select 1st, but it won't pull away and it just sits there revving, or you can't get it into gear?

You can drive without using the clutch if you're careful. Start the car in 1st gear and it will lurch away (unless the clutch is actually shagged) and then changing up gears is a matter of rev matching and applying pressure on the gearstick to slowly move into 2nd and so on - do not force it into gear, it should go in fairly easily at the correct revs.
If it's only two streets, you could just stick it out driving slowly in 1st... I'm assuming here that two streets isn't a huge distance.
To stop, plan well ahead and pull it out of gear into neutral - again it will be easy at the right revs. Once stopped you will need to kill the engine and start it in 1st again to get going.

Post Fri Aug 28, 2015 3:31 pm

sorry for not making it clear.

The gears engage when engine is off once I start the car I can't put it in gear or take it out of gear and it just launches assuming I have put it in gear when engine is off.

Once engine is on and I am in neutral It won't go in any gears.

Yes it's a short distance

Thanks

Post Fri Aug 28, 2015 4:02 pm

ETERNITY wrote:
The gears engage when engine is off once I start the car I can't put it in gear or take it out of gear and it just launches assuming I have put it in gear when engine is off.

It is sounding like the master cylinder has gone so the clutch won't disengage, meaning it's driveable without using the clutch pedal as described above.
As long as the reservoir isn't bone dry (and air been introduced into the system) you could top the fluid up and it might give you enough clutch pedal to reverse it out and get you pointing home. Failing that, can you not push it out of where it's parked?

Post Fri Aug 28, 2015 4:08 pm

It's like starting a car and thinking your in neutral when your in gear It just launches and it's stall.

I will try rev matching to get it home at least.

I can push it out and get it on the road from the car park.

Post Fri Aug 28, 2015 4:13 pm

ETERNITY wrote:It just launches and it's stall

Give it more throttle to keep the revs up as it starts - it won't be a smooth take off lol

Post Fri Aug 28, 2015 4:22 pm

Lol lesson learnt always do the master and slave together.

Post Fri Aug 28, 2015 4:27 pm

You did well for it to last 2 years!

Post Fri Aug 28, 2015 10:54 pm

Thanks and yes I will get both done.

This e30 community is awesome, always some one to help and offer advice

Much appreciated

Post Mon Aug 31, 2015 4:02 pm

Ok can someone just clarify if they think it is the master cylinder judging from the info I have given, because some mechanic just told me if it was the master the clutch would loose all it's pressure but my clutch pedal functions normal when I press down, no loss of pressure.

Thanks

Post Mon Aug 31, 2015 6:45 pm

If the slave is faulty, you will be losing fluid.
If you are not losing fluid it will be the master.
If you are losing fluid, it could be the master or slave.

Post Tue Sep 01, 2015 12:46 am

No point limping it home to do the master, there will 90% of the time be nothing wrong with the metal body of the master, just get under the dash, undo the 13mm bolt that connects the piston to the pedal, pop the rubber gaiter, pop the circlip, swap the rubber piston for a new one from a new master and if your quick you can get away without even bleeding it. I did the one on my E30 in 14 minuets when it decided to go last year.
Use a bin liner on the floor with blue workshop roll onto as you will spill some fluid inside and if you don't do it then you will ruin the carpet.

Even if it needs a bleed afterwards then you will at least be able to limp it around the corner with some kind of working clutch, even if it needs 3 pumps to disengage.

Post Wed Sep 09, 2015 2:07 pm

Ok the garage has just told me that it's my clutch that has gone because he is saying there would be no pressure if it was the master/slave

How much approx does it cost for a clutch kit fitted ?

Thanks

Post Wed Sep 09, 2015 5:19 pm

What they quoted?

Post Wed Sep 09, 2015 5:23 pm

Did you drive it home?

Post Wed Sep 09, 2015 5:28 pm

Am waiting on a quote.

I drove it home like you suggested. But the garage towed it.

Post Wed Sep 09, 2015 5:37 pm

It lurched away when you started it in 1st? Any sign of clutch slip while driving?

Post Wed Sep 09, 2015 5:39 pm

Yes it did and no slip, the only thing I noticed a week before this happened that it would jerk like it's come out of gear while in gear

Thanks

Post Wed Sep 09, 2015 6:08 pm

If it lurches, pulls away and drives the clutch should be fine.

How's the fluid level? Did you top it up?...

ETERNITY wrote:There is Damp patches and the fluid level is low, on the measuring stick it was 0.5mm

Where are the damp patches?
What measuring stick?

Post Wed Sep 09, 2015 6:17 pm

Ignore that.

There was plenty fluid and there was no leak or damp patches

Post Wed Sep 09, 2015 6:31 pm

So it's driveable by starting in gear (and drives ok without using the clutch pedal), there's no sign of clutch slip but you can't select gears normally??

If so, my money is still on a hydraulic problem and if there's no fluid loss, I'd say the master cylinder.

Post Wed Sep 09, 2015 7:07 pm

ok well I have said this to the mechanic that I have been advised its the hydraulics master cylinder,

he is going to confirm in the morning, I just wanted an idea of clutch cost.

thanks

Post Wed Sep 09, 2015 7:37 pm

It's obviously difficult to diagnose something on a forum but you saying this.....

ETERNITY wrote: The gears engage when engine is off once I start the car I can't put it in gear or take it out of gear and it just launches assuming I have put it in gear when engine is off.

Once engine is on and I am in neutral It won't go in any gears

.... and the fact you have driven it, says to me that the clutch is ok and its the hydraulics that are the problem.