TIA


Moderator: martauto



There are no signs of coolant leaking outside or inside the car, not even a drip on the floor but I am adding coolant semi-often. As the engine is new I wondered if the level was dropping due to air pockets in the engine being filled when running. I don't do short journeys, my previous drive to this was 45 mins thrash around, high revs and full temp throughout. That was a week ago. today I just idled the engine to temperature to do an oil change, I'm fairly sure the mayo hasn't come from 15 mins of idling it will have been there already, that plus the coolant loss equals some kind of leak, I wouldnt mind if the source was apparent, but I dont have a clue where its coming from. I could change my head gasket and nothing could change.steve_k wrote:mayo can happen after short trips where the engine doesn't get up to temp,
as for the coolant leak, is the pas side carpet damp/wet??
When I built the engine about 2 months ago I tested compression at 170-180 on all cylinders, it may have changed for some reason but all seemed ok then.bmw9818 wrote:sniff test/ compression tester kit if you can get access to one,


Unfortunately I have pulled the head now, I was hoping to find something obvious but I cant see any obvious problem or signs of leaks. Would the above indicate head gasket failure? What are the chances of having a crack in the block? that is my main concern atm. But I wasnt getting any white smoke (some drips of water when cold from exhaust). All the cylinders look the same colour, someone told me that is one cylinder had coolant leaking into it it would look a different colour and much "cleaner".Brianmoooore wrote:Get the engine up to temp. and the cooling system under pressure, then let the engine idle with the rocker cover off. Look carefully at the area of the head under the cam near the rear two cam bearings for little beads of water emerging, scooting across the surface, and disappearing down an oil return hole.


Brian is correct...with the cam removed the engine shop found a crack on my last head.Brianmoooore wrote:2.5 head is notorious for cracking through the bottom of the rear two cam bearings and the deck between them. You make be able to make out a thin black line between the bottom of the two bearings, or, easier to see, a crack across the bearing surface, if you remove the cam.

not really. i had one crack on me a few years ago under the cam, took it to the cylinder head shop when it was still in saltfleetby (lincs) & got it repaired & fettled while it was there, still got it as a spare in the back of the shed somewhere.aimlessrock wrote:Brian is correct...with the cam removed the engine shop found a crack on my last head.Brianmoooore wrote:2.5 head is notorious for cracking through the bottom of the rear two cam bearings and the deck between them. You make be able to make out a thin black line between the bottom of the two bearings, or, easier to see, a crack across the bearing surface, if you remove the cam.
if its cracked its scrap sadly.


I'm afraid that your assumption is 100% correct. Time to write this down to experience, and source yourself a known good head or complete engine.knapmann wrote:
I am assuming I have a cracked head at this stage,

Hi Brian thanks for the reply, did your head pass a pressure test before fitting? from what I was told it would be VERY rare for a head to be cracked and not show up on the pressure test but maybe this is not uncommon on a 885 head. If my head is cracked then this is what has happened. At least it would not be an issue with the block which would be the worst from me.Brianmoooore wrote:I'm afraid that your assumption is 100% correct. Time to write this down to experience, and source yourself a known good head or complete engine.knapmann wrote:
I am assuming I have a cracked head at this stage,
Your story closely mirrors one of my own from many years ago, and I can remember well the disappointment I felt when I finally realised that I'd wasted time and money rebuilding and fitting a head that was already cracked.
I solved my problem by buying a Cat. C 325SE completely unseen, just for its head.
We picked the car up in the middle of a thunderstorm, so didn't get a chance to inspect it until we arrived home three hours later.
Imagine my disappointment when I removed the coolant bottle cap and found traces of mayo inside! I'd spent a few hundred pounds and a day to get myself another scrap engine!!!
Anyway, the rest of the car seemed to be well looked after, with loads of parts in A1 condition, and there was a folder inside containing a large sheaf of invoices, so I started reading my way through them.
The very last invoice in the pile turned out to be just a few weeks old, was for around £1500 or so, and was for the supply and fitting of a shiny new cylinder head to replace a cracked one - the mayo in the tank was just the residual from the old one.
My mood instantly changed from despair to elation - for once in my life I'd hit the jackpot.

Design fault is the short answer, although I cracked mine as a result of an airlock after a coolant change.knapmann wrote:
1) What causes cracking? can it be simple fatigue or only over heating?
Fill slowly and carefully, then turn the heater on full when you start the engine and ensure it starts to blow warm in less than a minute. If it stays cold, and the temp. gauge starts to climb higher than it should, stop the engine immediately and bleed the air lock from the top heater pipe.2) My engine never overheated to my knowledge so it can only be caused by air pockets in the head, what can I do to ensure it is fully bled? This doesnt seems so simple.
A used head gasket is a used head gasket, however new or old it is, and certainly can't be used with a different head. You might get away with reusing the bolts a second time, but don't quote me on that.3) This head gasket has only been idled for 30 mins, do you thin I could get away with re-using it? it is my 2nd gasket and head bolt set in 3 months!

A little cheaper at £534.28, from CP4L but "out of stock".knapmann wrote:I found a source for new heads!!!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-E30-E34-3 ... 2a50824523



Most people on here have been saying a cracked head is junk and cant be fixed? or is this simply a matter of economy, I can get another head for £200; if repairing this one is more than that whats the point?Andyboy wrote:
Don't bin the cracked head as they can be repaired. You need to get them up to temp before they can be welded for the crack to open up. That's why a cold pressure test won't always show a problem.
The AMC copy cylinder heads are very good. They're made in Italy and I've never heard of one cracking.
Point is that ten years ago a s/h head cost £25....knapmann wrote:Most people on here have been saying a cracked head is junk and cant be fixed? or is this simply a matter of economy, I can get another head for £200; if repairing this one is more than that whats the point?Andyboy wrote:
Don't bin the cracked head as they can be repaired. You need to get them up to temp before they can be welded for the crack to open up. That's why a cold pressure test won't always show a problem.
The AMC copy cylinder heads are very good. They're made in Italy and I've never heard of one cracking.