Long story short.. some paint flaked off the rim of my rear arch, I didn't repair quick enough, so now I have a little bit of surface rust on it.. nothing to worry about, but want to sort it.
What's the process?
Isolate with masking tape
Sand down with a wire brush
Apply primer
Spray paint over it.
Apply lacquer ??
Complete noob to paint, so any help appreciated.
Cheers
Paint help
Moderator: martauto
No sanding down with a wire brush!
IF you've never painted then either get someone else to do it or practice on something else first.
IF you've never painted then either get someone else to do it or practice on something else first.
hmmm guess you're right.. I thought as it isn't visible (unless you're laying on your back looking up) the finished look wouldn't be too important. But yeah paint shop it is!
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Sanchez
- Married to the E30 Zone
- Posts: 7578
- Joined: Sun Apr 17, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Sunny Scotland
If It visible then practice on spare metal then try it.
Wire brush dents and scratches metal. Use a sanding disc(small bits of sand paper on a wheel) or if just light surface rust wet and dry paper.
Apply etch primer to bare metal or an anti rust chemical gel. Apply light skin of filler if needed.
Then primer, wet dry smooth, then colour around 3 coats and lacquer dependant on colour.
I seam to do well on small bit with a rattle cans from http://www.paints4u.com/aboutus.aspx colour matches are pretty good.
Wire brush dents and scratches metal. Use a sanding disc(small bits of sand paper on a wheel) or if just light surface rust wet and dry paper.
Apply etch primer to bare metal or an anti rust chemical gel. Apply light skin of filler if needed.
Then primer, wet dry smooth, then colour around 3 coats and lacquer dependant on colour.
I seam to do well on small bit with a rattle cans from http://www.paints4u.com/aboutus.aspx colour matches are pretty good.
I've used paints for you as well. They sell repair kits which include the paper for rubbing down as well.
The key to paint is it's all in the preparation. The key to preparation is patience. Never be tempted to rush or take short cuts, give coats sufficient time to dry and sand back using progressively finer grades of wet and dry until the surface is glass smooth.
Finally when painting apply lots of light coats, if you overspray and get runs you're going back to lots of sanding to flatten the surface back.
Practice first I'd say and always clean the nozzle out between coats on rattle cans, it tells you how on the tin. Do a job like this and you'll realise why good body shops charge as much as they do, it's very labour intensive.
Good luck and give us a few before and after shots of your handywork.
Finally when painting apply lots of light coats, if you overspray and get runs you're going back to lots of sanding to flatten the surface back.
Practice first I'd say and always clean the nozzle out between coats on rattle cans, it tells you how on the tin. Do a job like this and you'll realise why good body shops charge as much as they do, it's very labour intensive.
Good luck and give us a few before and after shots of your handywork.
Last bit of rattle can work for me was this Gulf Racing inspired set of crutches for the missus. Really pleased with the result but a total bitch to paint as there's so many nooks and crannies. Took about 5 coats of colour to get the finish.
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jimmyspeed
- E30 Zone Regular
- Posts: 848
- Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2007 11:00 pm
- Location: riding a wagon wheel west
In my experience cans are never as good as a gun, but for useful advice I'd recommend not masking the area tight to the repair I tried soft masking a front arch on the e36 and rattle canned it trying to be cheap, the blend was next to non existent and easily visible . With a build line
I then used the spray gun to apply colour and lacquer with a large 1ft blend Its infinitely better. I didn't paint the whole area just enough to patch it over. This will leave a powdery textured area to the extremities but as the paint below is 2pak and yours is cellulose it polishes out buy hand
Should still work with the cans as the nozzles are better from paint shops
I then used the spray gun to apply colour and lacquer with a large 1ft blend Its infinitely better. I didn't paint the whole area just enough to patch it over. This will leave a powdery textured area to the extremities but as the paint below is 2pak and yours is cellulose it polishes out buy hand
Should still work with the cans as the nozzles are better from paint shops
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Sanchez
- Married to the E30 Zone
- Posts: 7578
- Joined: Sun Apr 17, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Sunny Scotland
Cans would be a start for a novice and don't buy halfords stuff.
Also what helps as a handy tool like this.
http://www.paints4u.com/ProductDetails. ... uctID=5539
It's much easier to use cans with this added on. Very easy to use and great piece of kit.
Also what helps as a handy tool like this.
http://www.paints4u.com/ProductDetails. ... uctID=5539
It's much easier to use cans with this added on. Very easy to use and great piece of kit.
Thanks for all the suggestions guys..
This is what I'm dealing with.. very minimal and not visible so I guess blending exact etc. is not necessary
This is what I'm dealing with.. very minimal and not visible so I guess blending exact etc. is not necessary
I'll probs take you up on this if you can post GavinGavla wrote:I have just ordered Diamond Schwartz from Paints4U so have an extra can if you are interested...? I have used it before with excellent results...
Yeah of course I can post...PM me your address etc and I will get it off to you tomorrow...
Your idea will work...just use paper not not a wire brush...also mask up properly and you wont notice...I did my entire mtech 1 front spoiler and you would not have been able to tell unless up close...
Your idea will work...just use paper not not a wire brush...also mask up properly and you wont notice...I did my entire mtech 1 front spoiler and you would not have been able to tell unless up close...