Innovate LC-1 WBO2 wiring to Emerald ECU ?

[Andy335Touring]

I have finally got around to having the sensor boss welded to my exhaust so i thought i'd have a look at the wiring instructions for the LC-1 so i know what i'm doing when i try to fit it but i'm a little confused with the differant ways of wiring up the earths.

My ECU has the following O2 sensor connections

switched negative for control of a relay to feed power to the O2 sensor
O2 sensor signal input
O2 sensor signal earth

To make for lighter reading i've done some screen captures of the relavent sections of the LC-1 instruction manual.







Section seven in the second picture is saying(if i'm understanding it correctly) the white and green wires should be earthed at the analog inputs ground.

So i should connect white and green wires to my ECU's signal input earth ???

But..........

The last picture go's on to say some ECU have some thing called differential inputs and need to be wired like it shows in the diagram which is different to what it was saying in section seven ?

My fuzzy knowledge on this subject is that if the earths arn't right then it might give me spoof AFR readings so i'd like a second opinion before i wire it up wrong.

I'm favouring connecting up the white/green to my ECU's signal earth wire at the mo ?

[e30_Turbo]

Andy,

All grounds to the emerald ground, a must and having not done it first time, it needs to be done for any readable output. I wired the calibration wire to the same ground also.

What input does emerald need?

The LC-1 is setup for Analog 1 - 0-2v WB or Analog 2 0-5v, I use the brown (analog 2) although you can set it all up in LM programmer to output what ever you like.

So I have all earths to the top strut, power off the coil and Brown to the ECU, all works rather well, but first time I did it I had some wierd readings but once rewired properly has been fine.

They also have a warm up period about 30 secs.

HTH, Mark.

[Ant]

analog one is intended to fool a stock ECU into thinking the std NB 02 is still connected, when in reality its a "fiddled" output from the LC-1

what input range the M3D accepts will determine what output range you'll need Andy.

I know it has a WB02 controller already so you effectivly have 2 now.

[Turbo-Brown]

Isn't it looking for something between 0.2v for rich and 0.8v for lean and whatever else inbetween?

Be very interested in what wiring etc you come up with Andy as these things seem to be the way forward! It's amasing how inaccurate the NB sensors are!

Unfortunately, saving for a deposit on a house and buying things like WBO2 sensors don't really go together

[Andy335Touring]

Thanks for the info Mark and Ant

So is this right ?

Red to ignition switched live
Blue to a good earth away from the other earths
White and Green joined together and connected to the signal earth of my ECU
Yellow - analog 1 simulated narrow band - not needed so will be insulated
Brown - analog 2 WB 0-5v signal from LC-1 to be connected up to the signal input wire on my ECU(or not, see below)
Black - calibration wire to connect to an earth via the switch and LED that you get with the LC-1

My ECU has the following connections but i need to find out wheather i use the O2 sensor signal input wire or the aux analog input 1 (0-5v).

switched negative for control of a relay to feed power to the O2 sensor - i'm not going to use a relay
O2 sensor signal input
O2 sensor signal earth
aux analog input 1 (0-5v)

I need to find out which input i need to use on my ECU.

Heres the closed loop control, i might just use closed loop to control the AFR's on tick over ? I need to learn more about cloosed loop, when/where/how is the best way to use it.



And this is the aux input control so it looks like i can taylor which voltage relates to which AFR is displayed. It's this feature thats making me think i ought to use the Aux input ?

[Andy335Touring]

Looks like i might have two O2 sensor inputs, one NB and one WB ?

[e30_Turbo]

imo thats giving you a choice of either, some wb's are fixed @ 0-1v, not the lc-1 tho, can only figure that 0-5v gives a better resolution.

Closed loop and open loop are hot topics with me, I've been gathering info and will be trying mine closed loop for a while too see how it performs.
I've set target AFR's and given it a some authority, will monitor it for a while tho.

I'm very nearly pushing a bar of boost now, so I NEED to be sure this system is as good as it should be. So far so good.

Get it fitted and wired, I'm sure it'll work straight away, as mine did once power was sorted, make sure you have logworks 2 as lw1 doesn't work.

Mark.

[Andy335Touring]

I'm very nearly pushing a bar of boost now, so I NEED to be sure this system is as good as it should be. So far so good.

Mark.

I bet it flys !

How high can the boost be taken before you have to look at uprated HG and ARP studs ETC ?

Are you and Ant shareing an LC-1 or do you each have one ?

Are you going to use an AFR dash guage so you can keep an eye on whats going on ?

[Ant]

Mark is running an LC-1, I have the LM-1 as I need to swop it between cars easily, the only real difference is, I have real time AFR displayed on the screen, gets power from the fag lighter socket too.

Both are configured the same, 0/5V on analog 2, mines got a stereo jack plug into the MS, not hardwired like Marks


Use the 0 to 5 on aux input as you've suggested, the Volts vs AFR for the LC are on the insatll disc M8, just add those values where indocated and away you go

For the closed loop, I'd suggest a few datalogs of running open, review those based upon how it feels to you, arse dyno has a role to play here too M8

any oddball AFRs will be readily apparnent and you'll have a good starting point for mapping her, I dont doubt Dave Walker's abilties for a second, but given an endless amount of dyno time, anything can be improved upon, somewhere. using the logs gives you this facility.

Go for it M8 !

[Andy335Touring]

Use the 0 to 5 on aux input as you've suggested

So do i still join the white and green wires to the ECU's signal earth wire if i use the aux input ?

What i'm hoping to do is to do lots of differant logs at differant speed and load sites as i know it's running well, then when i fit the new twin TB i will have some idea as to what AFRs to aim for to get me drivable as soon as pos as it's my only car.

I can then take my time fine tuning.

I'll leave cloosed loop alone until i've done tuning, it'd be nice if i could save a little fuel with it though !

[e30_Turbo]

I bet it flys !

Ow yes it does, no idea HOW fast but I now get the front end to raise up under heavy acell!! And as yet I'm yet to find someone to keep up to see how fast she really is, boss next door has a porka GT....hmmmmm

How high can the boost be taken before you have to look at uprated HG and ARP studs ETC ?

When she pops I will let you know, my other heads off for welding up and refurbing, when thats back I plan to see how much boost my current system will take and upon blowing it up I'll fit the new one along with ARP's and a uprated HG. (I'm thinking 17-20psi will kill it)

Are you going to use an AFR dash guage so you can keep an eye on whats going on ?

I've not got a in dash AFR gauge, but to be fair the laptop is on most of the time anyway and I only give it some when I have a passenger to watch over things, not quite confident to give it large on my own yet.

I've got this week off driving so won't be mapping more until next week, then hopefully I'll get it sorted so I can use 100% tp and hold it, at the mo I'm holding 10psi by not giving it more than 60%.

How is the LC-1 coming? Fitted it yet?

Mark.

[Andy335Touring]

If the weathers good and i can finish work early one day this week then i'll get it fitted, just got to figure out how to fasten the LC-1 control box to the under side of my car, god knows why they don't make the wires longer so the box could be inside the car nice and dry !

Where have you put your sensor and control box, where have you ran the wires ?

My sensor boss is by the gear box exhaust hanger so i'm hoping to feed the wires in to the car through the gear linkage rubber gater, touch wood there might be enough cable from the sensor so i can have the control box inside the car ?

I haven't got a lap top of my own so i'm borrowing my mates lap top other wise i'd be data logging every time i used the car once it's fitted