316 1988 Baur.
I have to change the front legs of my car.
Now the thing is , I have a set ready with springs etc all ready to go on and I need to know if I can take off the steering arm and release the bottom ball joint and then un-do the top end and all should be well. ??????? (brakes also)
The least amount of time I spend under the car will do me well as "my" ball joints are in cahoots with mr "Arthur Ritus".
I have the next week off and weather permitting, things may happen.
Cheers, Mart.
Front struts
Moderator: martauto
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martauto
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 6215
- Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: leeds
Only the E46 cab left now.
Just got too old.
Just got too old.
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Sanchez
- Married to the E30 Zone

- Posts: 7578
- Joined: Sun Apr 17, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Sunny Scotland
Like for like swap is easy.
Lose wheel nuts.
Lift car safely.
Remove wheel.
Undo calliper, hang safely to one side.
Undo calliper carrier and remove.
Release track rod end.
Undo any abs wiring, brake pad wear wiring.
Remove flexi brake hose from strut bracket.
Open bonnet undo 3 strut nuts.
Urrmmm think that's all, should come out.
Opposite to refit refurbed item.
Lose wheel nuts.
Lift car safely.
Remove wheel.
Undo calliper, hang safely to one side.
Undo calliper carrier and remove.
Release track rod end.
Undo any abs wiring, brake pad wear wiring.
Remove flexi brake hose from strut bracket.
Open bonnet undo 3 strut nuts.
Urrmmm think that's all, should come out.
Opposite to refit refurbed item.
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jimmyspeed
- E30 Zone Regular

- Posts: 848
- Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2007 11:00 pm
- Location: riding a wagon wheel west
As Sanchez said but when undoing the track and arm nuts the ball joints they will almost certainly spin, not allowing enough torque to remove the nuts
So all you do is but a jack underneath the joint to stop it moving, don't fully remove the nut but wind it until it's just above the thread , then knock with a hammer to get the taper out of the strut
Also are you swapping complete struts or changing parts over ? As the large nut that holds the top mount usually needs a hollow socket so you can hold it steady with an Allen key. I usually use one of those stilhl chainsaw tools
So all you do is but a jack underneath the joint to stop it moving, don't fully remove the nut but wind it until it's just above the thread , then knock with a hammer to get the taper out of the strut
Also are you swapping complete struts or changing parts over ? As the large nut that holds the top mount usually needs a hollow socket so you can hold it steady with an Allen key. I usually use one of those stilhl chainsaw tools
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 49360
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
One thing missing from the list. After fitting the new struts, the tracking will need checking and possibly adjusting.
The slightest difference in front suspension components will greatly affect the tracking, and if it's still correct after a swap, it will be by coincidence only.
The slightest difference in front suspension components will greatly affect the tracking, and if it's still correct after a swap, it will be by coincidence only.
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martauto
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 6215
- Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: leeds
Thanks for the input guy`s, lets hope for decent weather
Mart.
Mart.
Only the E46 cab left now.
Just got too old.
Just got too old.
