Adjustable camber plates

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Hopchop
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Post Fri Apr 03, 2015 12:21 am

Is it a big job to fit camber plates on the rear beam, and what are the best ones to get? Any advice greatly appreciated
DanThe
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Post Fri Apr 03, 2015 12:30 am

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Hopchop
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Post Fri Apr 03, 2015 12:36 am

Is there a lot of work involved, I assume the beam will need to be dropped off the car to do the welding?

Also what range of positive to negative camber do they achieve?
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bimanut
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Post Fri Apr 03, 2015 1:20 am

:D

I could do with some pics of where these are welded on as I need to weld mine on
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Grrrmachine
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Post Fri Apr 03, 2015 5:40 am

I did this on mine; there are plenty of online guides around.

Once you've got the rear beam off it's pretty obvious where the tabs weld on; around the existing bolt holes!

Camber plates are fitted with the slit vertical on the outer trailing arm mount, toe plates have the slit horizontal on the inner tabs.

The whole slot offers about 1.2 degrees of adjustment, so you can locate the tab with the existing hole slap bang in the middle, then enlarge the existing hole to give 0.6 degrees of adjustment up or down. Or you can place the tab at one end of the existing hole, so that you have a full 1.2 degrees of adjustment in one direction (not the band).

Remember, with these tabs you still need E34 eccentric bolts as well.
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bimanut
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Post Fri Apr 03, 2015 4:32 pm

Thanks
I know which tabs they needed to be welded to,was just unsure of the orientation of them.
I get the basic fundamentals of how it all works just to read more and have a play around until I get it right.I've got a few rear beams knocking about.

Bolts are on the goodies list,just need to get the part numbers for them.
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DanThe
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Post Fri Apr 03, 2015 4:50 pm

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Lurch320i
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Post Fri Apr 03, 2015 7:23 pm

Grrrmachine wrote: The whole slot offers about 1.2 degrees of adjustment, so you can locate the tab with the existing hole slap bang in the middle, then enlarge the existing hole to give 0.6 degrees of adjustment up or down. Or you can place the tab at one end of the existing hole, so that you have a full 1.2 degrees of adjustment in one direction (not the band)
So which end of the hole would we have to weld it to to obtain maximum correction for negative camber

Also if I wanted to correct about 3 degrees coul I make the holes in the tabs a little bigger?
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Brianmoooore
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Post Fri Apr 03, 2015 8:04 pm

The amount of adjustment is set by the eccentricity of the E34 bolts, not the length of the slots, but you can set the 'starting point' where you like.
TBH, if you need to ask these questions, you should really leave the positioning to someone who knows what they're doing.
The normal arrangement is to fit eight tabs to a beam, to facilitate adjustment of both camber and toe, with only four of them being set for camber adjustment. If you really wanted to, you could set all eight for camber adjustment, although at the extremes of adjustment you will be flexing the tabs.
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Lurch320i
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Post Sat Apr 04, 2015 9:33 am

Yes Brian I knew the amount of adjustment was set by the diameter of the eccentrics

But I've seen other people use larger eccentric washers with a larger weld on tab to gain more adjustment, that's why I was asking

But once again Brian thank you :) it seems your knowledge knows no bounds
Grrrmachine
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Post Sat Apr 04, 2015 11:40 am

Lurch320i wrote:So which end of the hole would we have to weld it to to obtain maximum correction for negative camber
Hold your left hand up in front of you, and make an L with your index finger and thumb. Index finger is your rear left wheel, thumb is your rear beam. Now pull your thumb down, and watch your index finger rotate clockwise. Congratulations, your wheel now has negative camber, and the amount you moved your thumb is the length of the slotted hole in the camber tabs.

Based on this simple model, you should be able to work out how to fit the tabs and wobble bolts to correct the issue.
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Lurch320i
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Post Sat Apr 04, 2015 11:57 am

Grrrmachine wrote:
Lurch320i wrote:So which end of the hole would we have to weld it to to obtain maximum correction for negative camber
Hold your left hand up in front of you, and make an L with your index finger and thumb. Index finger is your rear left wheel, thumb is your rear beam. Now pull your thumb down, and watch your index finger rotate clockwise. Congratulations, your wheel now has negative camber, and the amount you moved your thumb is the length of the slotted hole in the camber tabs.

Based on this simple model, you should be able to work out how to fit the tabs and wobble bolts to correct the issue.
Fantastic :) thanks again grrr
DanThe
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Post Sat Apr 04, 2015 1:12 pm

Fit them high on the inner mounts (camber)
Centre on the outers (toe)
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Lurch320i
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Post Sat Apr 04, 2015 2:35 pm

DanThe wrote:Fit them high on the inner mounts (camber)
Centre on the outers (toe)
Cheers Dan

Are you still making these?
DanThe
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Post Sat Apr 04, 2015 8:36 pm

Yes mate, have beams welded up, sand blasted, powder coated and ready to go too
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Lurch320i
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Post Sat Apr 04, 2015 10:36 pm

Excellent, is it an exchange basis or outright?
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Post Sat Apr 04, 2015 11:58 pm

Exchange