Changing control arms pads and discs

[polsta]

I've got a loads of new bits and wondering what i can attempt myself

How easy/hard is it to change put in a pair of new control arms if you've never done such a job ?

Also front pads and discs ?

Is it viable to attempt mysef ?

[Brianmoooore]

All fairly easy DIY stuff, but I can't judge your mechanical skills!
I have two brother in laws. One could easily and quickly do the job wearing a blindfold, while the other would never manage it successfully even if he had every workshop manual available at hand, a fully equipped workshop, a mechanic to advise him, and unlimited time.

[daimlerman]

Control arm replacement will require the splitting of three balljoints,one of which,on the end of the steering,will need to be done in such a way as to not damage the joint...unless your goodie bag of new bits includes track rod ends...

Disc replacement,unsuprisingly,entails the removal of the old disc,this is located by a small allen-headed bolt that in all my years of E30 ownership has never,ever,un-screwed.It has always required the attention of Mr Anglegrinder.

So,apart from that bargain-priced socket set from Halfords,you will need a decent balljoint splitter and an angle grinder.

I would expect to complete such a job in about half a day,depending on how many cups of tea SWMBO trots out with,along with requests to fix something very boring.

[Grrrmachine]

Pretty sure you don't need to touch the steering joint to take off a control arm. It's just the one in the subframe and the one on the hub, plus the two bolts on the chassis leg.

But you definitely need a joint splitter. I bought the compression type one (tighten a bolt to close the jaws), and it's great for the hub ball joint, but useless on the subframe one. You really need the tuning-fork style one for that, which you belt in with a hammer

But they're all very easy jobs. Discs and pads have to be the easiest job on an E30.

[Brianmoooore]

No need to split the track rod end joint to change a control arm, and if the control arm is being changed, as per OP, then it doesn't matter if the joints are damaged during removal. A cheap split wedge type joint splitter is adequate for this.
The head of the disc locating screw is broken off in seconds, by smacking the back of the disc hard with a large hammer. The remains of the screw is usually not seized, and can be wound out with grips. When fitting the new screw, coat it in copper grease, and only screw it in lightly. It's only a locating screw, and can't undo with a wheel in place.

[capri_rob]

You,don't definately need a balljoint splitter as long as you have a suitable sized tapping device I rebuilt my entire front end without one.

To undo the subframe balljoints nut you need several extension bars to undo it from the top of the engine bay

With regard to the Allen bolt holding the brake disk in plenty of plus gas and hammer In a very tight fitting torx driver should shift it. Failing that once the caliper is removed you can break the disk off which will,shear the head off the bolt and you can then wind what's left out with some decent grips.

The only bit of changing control arms I would give to someone else is changing the lollipop bushes.

Although the word on here is that it can be done by hand you are far better off taking the new arm and new bush/lollipop to your local garage and give them a few quid to use the hydraulic press to install them - done in minutes rather than struggling with it yourself.

[polsta]

I'm not too bad at following instructions and a manual and have a range good range of Clarke pro range sockets and spaners etc, but I have not got a split wedge joint splitter or any long extension bars or anything like that ?

The control arms ive got are lemforder from ecp with ball joints etc

Last spring the car had the subframe out and refurbed aswell as the roll bar and new drop links and track rods etc , so presume there will be no stuck bolts or anything, these bits are the last I need to do to freshen it all up

Should I also buy new lollipops then ? Are they not on the control arms ?

[BHadley]

I'd soak in penetrating oil (like WD40 or something) every nut and thread on the control arm a day before replacing it if your not using air tools .

Control arms can be a pig on the drivers side subframe bolt as access is bad ( exhaust mainhold in the way, that was on a 318i)

After the arms are done wheel alignment will at least need checking so may be worth cleaning up the track rod end threads and the pinch bolts with a wire brush and penetrating oil. Ask around locally for a recommended garage for that.

Brakes; Allen key sockets make it a lot easier for the caliper bolts and the disc retaining screw too.
Decent breaker bar for the carrier bolts as those are tight ! Good wire brush up where the pads and disc sit is always good. Wiki should have how to guide ?

[BHadley]

Lollipops sit in the back the control arm on the spindle.

It is a separate part.

[capri_rob]

Nope lollipops are extra.
You take the old ones off, getting them off the old control arms can be a bitch, you then need to press the bushes out and new bushes in. A good time to upgrade to the solid M3 bushes. You then get the lot pressed onto the arm.

Fitting isn't really that hard.

Invest in a set of extension bars they aren't expensive and very useful.

One tricky bit I found was getting enough weight on the subframe balljoint - once it's in position you need to put the trolley jack under it and jack it up on the balljoint so the weight of the car is pressing it into place - that should then be enough to stop the balljoints spinning so you can wind the nylon nut on and torque it up. If you don't have pressure on it it will just spin.

[Brianmoooore]

Although the word on here is that it can be done by hand you are far better off taking the new arm and new bush/lollipop to your local garage and give them a few quid to use the hydraulic press to install them - done in minutes rather than struggling with it yourself.

The old bush takes some effort to get out of the lollipop, and the new one in, without a press, but the old one can be removed with a hacksaw, and the new one fitted with a block of wood and a large hammer or vice. Just a lot easier with a press.
The lollipop bush assembly is no problem to fit back onto the control arm pin by hand after the control arm itself has been fitted. No one would mistake me for a Mr Universe entrant, and while you have to push and twist with some effort, I've never had a problem.
Most socket sets include a 300mm extension bar, and all that is required extra to reach the inner balljoint nuts is a second similar one.
A fork type ball joint remover is hardly expensive, and is worth the investment, rather than swinging heavy hammers near expensive components.

[polsta]

Where do I find lolipops on ECP ? Or m3 ones how much are they ? Or from Bmw ?

[Brianmoooore]

Where do I find lolipops on ECP ? Or m3 ones how much are they ? Or from Bmw ?

If you price them from BMW, note that both bushes are ONE item. If you buy two, you will end up with four bushes.

[polsta]

Where do I find lolipops on ECP ? Or m3 ones how much are they ? Or from Bmw ?

If you price them from BMW, note that both bushes are ONE item. If you buy two, you will end up with four bushes.

What do I ask for ? "Lolipop m3 (e30 m3 is it ?) bushes ? Any idea of a rough price ? But presume they will ask me for a chassis number ? Which I don't have for the m3 ?

Or where on eCP do I find them ? I can't seem to do so ?

Just found this with some different options and part numbers , what ones should I get ?

http://www.rtsauto.com/e30-control-arm- ... -bushings/

[capri_rob]

If you can find the part number you shouldn't need to provide a chassis number - I didn't when I bought mine. I think they were about £30 but that was 4 years ago. Dealer only I think.

There is an arrow on the lollipop and a corresponding arrow on the bush - you need to ensure they are lined up when pressing them in.

[BHadley]

It's all in here , part numbers too .

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Suspension

[polsta]

31129061222 , cheers il get some ordered tomorrow and seek to find someone local with a press

[Brianmoooore]

31129061222 , cheers il get some ordered tomorrow and seek to find someone local with a press

Get ONE ordered, all you'll end up with two sets.

[polsta]

Will do brian thanks for the tip

Are the holders/carriers available to buy or could/should I give them a refurb/paint or something ? I presume you couldn't get them powder coated due to having to fit the bushes in?

[Brianmoooore]

Lollipops are available new from BMW, and they are sold complete with bushes under their E36 part number. Not with the eccentric solid bushes though.

[BHadley]

31129061222 , cheers il get some ordered tomorrow and seek to find someone local with a press

Most garages, even some fast fit places will have one.

prob do while you wait....for cash...

[capri_rob]

Doing the front arms is a really satisfying job. Just take your time with it.

Disks and pads are easy. The only real ball ache with most BMW's with rear disks is setting up the handbrake shoes. I've done a few and it's still tricky to get it spot on. I need to do my touring again before the mot.

[polsta]

31129061222 , cheers il get some ordered tomorrow and seek to find someone local with a press

Get ONE ordered, all you'll end up with two sets.

I've ordered he said how many do you need i said 1 of that part number £38 , he didn't know if there were 1 or 2

Pick them up tomorrow with some other bits

[polsta]

If you can find the part number you shouldn't need to provide a chassis number - I didn't when I bought mine. I think they were about £30 but that was 4 years ago. Dealer only I think.

There is an arrow on the lollipop and a corresponding arrow on the bush - you need to ensure they are lined up when pressing them in.

Cheers rob, I just double checked back as I was wondering about lining up

Got a lot to do and fit, car drove fine all last summer and looked great, this year it will be further improved in all departments and finish of the engine bay

I've got all ready to fit or waiting for..

New Gear box and engine mounts
Control arms/wishbones
M3 lolipop bushes
Pagid break discs and pads
New genuine Bmw set of coolant hoses
Brand new coolant expansion tank
Lovely looking blasted thermostat housing
And a big bore throttle body conversion
Courtesy of maggspower
New gaskets
Brand new Hartge style polished twin tube sparco strut brace
Full set of bay and car stickers from pukar
a lovely new coil and bracket with new sticker
Like new icv
And a set of 5 newly refurbed silver bbs that look

After that lot and what was done last year,the front end is fully finished refurbished with all new everything and no old or rusty bits

I've also got a freshly blasted rocker and inlet manifold to collect Monday to replace the powder coated ones I had done last year , pondering weather to maybe laquer them as they are (depending once ive seen them) or paint them and laquer

[capri_rob]

How much was the coolant hose set ? I'm sure mine are the 27 year old originals lol

[polsta]

So are mine lol were on the to do list anyway thankfully , last week i taxed the car and drove it a couple of times , and had a bit of steam from the bonnet the fan had sliced awsy at the top hose and a pin hole had appeared at the Middle (I was lucky to notice when I did before it got worse) and was only a mile from home

Upon investigating , appeared the engine mounts caused it and needed replacing , so got new ones and transmission mounts for good measure

Bmw are the only place you can get hoses from, whole set was around a ton, tank was about 80 but got discount £155 inc vat for the lot which wasn't bad and will look great

[capri_rob]

I did engine and gearbox mounts on mine, I used genuine gearbox mounts which cost an arm and a leg but used the Ford RS2000 engine mounts from Burton which were a fraction of the price of BMW ones and work well.

I need to look at the gearbox on mine again though as the back was caked in oil - the seals have gone I think but I ain't gonna attempt it myself.

Look forward to seeing the thread update when it's all done

[polsta]

How did you find doing the mounts ? Are the gear box ones easy to do without a ramp ? Is it literally just a case of jacking it up , putting a jack to hold the box and undo the bolts to drop the bar , change the mounts and bolt back up ? It sounds easy enough if so ?

I have read some people saying burton mounts didn't last very well and split ? So i gave them a swerve

Il get some picture action up once done, aiming to have it all done by the end of the month, mot 1st April

I've had the refurbed wheels a couple of weeks now they look nice, I resisted putting them on until ive got these bits done, im itching to see how it looks with them on

[Brianmoooore]

as the back was caked in oil - the seals have gone I think but I ain't gonna attempt it myself.

More than likely it's just the seal on the selector shaft to the gear lever that's failed, which isn't too difficult to change.

[capri_rob]

I don't own a ramp - at the time I did mine it was on axle stands in a garage only about 3 ft wider than the car - hence never again.

Brian it's not the changing of the seal that's difficult - it's the dismantling of everything else to get at it that's annoying when you're on your back on a concrete floor with no proper light and dirt dropping into your eyes and the thing on axle stands and no room to work that's the problem

[polsta]

That's the problem I have rob , ive got maybe 3ft of space , 1.5 each side if I had car central or 3ft at 1 side if I move car across , so it's move car out to work on , or take to someone with a ramp

Is the gear box mounts easy /quick to do like I asked in prev post ?

[capri_rob]

Yeah doddle. You need a jack of some sort to support the box whilst you change them that's all.

The mounts attach to a small crossmember which spans the transmission tunnel - simple nuts and bolts job.

At the time I did mine I did the whole gear linkage, the prop donut and centre bearing as well - can't remeber off hand but you will probably have to remove the exhaust and heat shield to get at it so makes sense to do it all at the same time. With a bit of forethought I would have done the gearbox selector seal at that point as it is now the whole lot will need to come apart again - so if there is any oil around the back of the box look into doing this at the same time.

[Brianmoooore]

Even a jack isn't essential for the gearbox mounts. There's very little weight supported by the rear crossmember, so it can be dropped/lifted by hand onto a support of some kind.

[polsta]

Ok cool cheers guys il update once I get cracking , don't need to do any of that rob my gear linkage etc is brand new not long ago and feels perfect , it's just the mounts

[Grrrmachine]

Would you mind taking a few pics as you go? I know the process enough to write a How To for the wiki, but an article like this is useless without a few photos of the process