blower motor not working

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ross2009
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Tue Mar 10, 2015 8:40 pm

as above guy ive noticed my blower motor isnt working
ive checked fuses all ok , ive tested if there is power going to the motor but there nothing
i took the panel off in the engine bay spun the fans with my hand and it seems very stiff shouldnt they spin quite freely ?

i cant work out why the motor isnt getting any power, ive read the unloader k7 relay supplies power to the fuse

the cars been off the rd for near on 2 years now so could the motor just be knackered

is there any thing else i should check ?

thanks
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scallyally
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Tue Mar 10, 2015 9:30 pm

Might be the resistor pack but for the best info search the wiki (blower only working on max)

Deffo pull the motor and lube the bearings (3in1)
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aivaras325
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Tue Mar 10, 2015 9:42 pm

Does t work on 4th setting? Cos in that setting it by passes resistor pack assuming motor is not stuck.
You could access motor see how it spins by hand, if free try 4th speed and see if it works or at least tries to work.

My situation: Not working at all speeds, after googling I suspected resistor pack but motor didnt work at all, not even 4th setting. Mechanic tested resistor said it seamed ok. So I accessed motor and it was stuck. Freed it up by hand, was very hard to turn, but once done it did spin kinda on 4th setting.Running it at 4th setting applied spray grease till it got spinning nice and quite. Still didnt work on other speeds so resistor was at fault too. What mechanic thought happened is resistor failed and made motor work to hard and it seized or visa versa.... Basicly check BOTH

Oh and when he applied power to motor directly via resistor plug under glove box (he had some tool he connected to battery) and I was switching speeds you can hear relay click.

And yes motor should spin very easily, get a can of spray grease and while motor is on (assuming its on, if not turn on 4th speed to by pass resistor) and spray grease on bearings, between motor and fins on both sides.
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Brianmoooore
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Tue Mar 10, 2015 10:14 pm

Light oil should be used on the motor bearings rather than spray grease, and the process has to be repeated several times to get the oil to soak into the porous plain bearings.
Resistor packs only fail because of stiff motor bearings.
Any clicking sound is a thermal overload fuse in the resistor pack operating.
Do the door mirrors work? If they do, K7 is OK.
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aivaras325
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Tue Mar 10, 2015 10:23 pm

What you mean ''Light oil''? what is that? Is it like engine oil? Machine grease? I am still in first application stage so would like do it properly. 8O
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Brianmoooore
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Tue Mar 10, 2015 10:28 pm

"Three in one" is ideal, if it still exists. (Had my can for years). Clear, thin oil.
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aivaras325
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Tue Mar 10, 2015 10:49 pm

Make? Type? Link to get one please? Would help thread starter as well maybe...
jmc330i
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Tue Mar 10, 2015 10:54 pm

aivaras325 wrote:Make? Type? Link to get one please? Would help thread starter as well maybe...
http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine ... -oil-100ml
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ross2009
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Wed Mar 11, 2015 5:56 am

Motor doesn't work on any settings

I've tested power to the motor from the plug under the dash no power to that either
I don't have electric mirror I swapped them for crappy aftermarket ones so I don't know if they work or not :?
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ross2009
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Wed Mar 11, 2015 4:02 pm

Right I've found the problem
As I don't have a bmw engine in my car anymore there isn't no provision for the green/black wire on the starter motor which powers the unloader relay ,the wire wasn't attached

Right so now it works but where can I put the wire if I can't put it on the starter motor?
I know it grounds it when cranking

So can I just ground it to the chassis??
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Brianmoooore
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Wed Mar 11, 2015 6:36 pm

ross2009 wrote: As I don't have a bmw engine in my car anymore
Don't you think that this little nugget of information could have been usefully included in your OP! My crystal ball is in for repair at the moment.

Connect the green/black wire to the large terminal on your starter motor solenoid that has a link, wire or braid going to the motor itself.
ross2009
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Wed Mar 11, 2015 6:57 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:
ross2009 wrote: As I don't have a bmw engine in my car anymore
Don't you think that this little nugget of information could have been usefully included in your OP! My crystal ball is in for repair at the moment.

Connect the green/black wire to the large terminal on your starter motor solenoid that has a link, wire or braid going to the motor itself.
Sorry Brian , brilliant I shall do that thanks

One last thing on wiring , if you can help I've noticed my dash warning lights don't come on , on ignition I haven't got the charging warning light connected to the alternator as again it doesn't have an output for it on the alternator, I've got a blue wire which when you touch it on earth the dash lights come on
Does this give the dash power from the blue wire , I think it's the same wire from the alternator ?
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Brianmoooore
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Wed Mar 11, 2015 11:20 pm

What strange alternator do you have fitted that doesn't have a D+ output?
ross2009
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Thu Mar 12, 2015 5:47 am

An American one for a chevy v8 it's only a single pole which is the charging wire not the charging light on the dash
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Brianmoooore
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Thu Mar 12, 2015 9:30 am

Unless you can point me towards wiring diagrams for this Chevy V8, so I can work out what it does for a warning light, then I'm going to struggle to help you.
The D+ output on an E30 alternator doesn't only control the battery warning light; it controls the obligatory other warning lights on the dash that are required to be tested on start up, so you could be heading for MOT test problems.
ross2009
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Thu Mar 12, 2015 9:40 am

Ok thanks Brian
So it does control other lights on the dash

I'll have a dig about see if I can find any Chevy wiring diagrams
Most of that side of the wiring is still stock bmw so just had to adapt these 2 little bits but thanks for your help
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