mot fail,help

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delboy8000
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Post Thu Jan 26, 2006 7:01 pm

hi guys,posted this on chat to no avail!! shouldve come here in the first place,anyway failed mot 2day on osr shock leaking,rear pads worn,nsf balljoint worn and front brake imbalance,i can fit pads myself but need 2 know what tools ill need,also mot guy said front slides may just be seized??any ideas?cheers
gcorky
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Post Thu Jan 26, 2006 8:02 pm

right brake imbalance probably due to seized slide,work it loose to remove clean ,grease and reassemble,tricky job will be the ball joint as they need to be pressed -may aswell fit new arm which is easier to do anyway,tools required ball joint splitter,spanners,sockets ,rear shocker is gonna be done when you fit the rear pads and is secured by two thirteen mm nuts at top and the the single bolt at the bottom.(top mount maybe buggered when you get it out but these things are not uncommon on this age of vehicle and could happen to a 3-4 yr old ford...... :cry:
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delboy8000
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Post Thu Jan 26, 2006 9:32 pm

cheers cgorky,will do brakes/shock myself,get balljoint done in garage,how do u get to the top nut of the shock?think it is under the parcel shelf??
Martinaston
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Post Thu Jan 26, 2006 9:48 pm

If the front brake caliper is binding it's more likely to lock with the brakes on, are you sure it's not just air in one of the brake line's ?
When was the brake fluid last changed ?

As for the rear shock, you don't have to replace the pair but you'll notice the difference after the first couple of corners. Get the gas filled ones, they last longer.

The top nuts for it are in the boot, behind the trim.
There is NO nucleus.
gcorky
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Post Thu Jan 26, 2006 11:07 pm

Martinaston wrote:If the front brake caliper is binding it's more likely to lock with the brakes on, are you sure it's not just air in one of the brake line's ?
When was the brake fluid last changed ?

As for the rear shock, you don't have to replace the pair but you'll notice the difference after the first couple of corners. Get the gas filled ones, they last longer.

The top nuts for it are in the boot, behind the trim.
mine seized and held outside pad off causint a bias to other side!!!!!wasnt even that seized but it dont take much
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massive
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Post Fri Jan 27, 2006 9:18 am

delboy8000 wrote:cheers cgorky,will do brakes/shock myself,get balljoint done in garage,how do u get to the top nut of the shock?think it is under the parcel shelf??
The top nut is a matter of holding the strut from spinning with either an allen-key or sometimes its hexagon shaped. The top nut is nothing different from any other nut. Remember how it all comes off for reassembling.

The bottom is secured by a bolt through the bottom of the strut. Easily accessable once the car is up and the wheel is off.

Do both struts in my opinion - got to disagree with Martinaston on that one!
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Brianmoooore
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Post Sat Jan 28, 2006 12:14 am

Take the rear damper out complete with the top mount, and seperate them on the workbench.
Note the cupped washer on top of the mount does go on in the way that looks up side down.
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delboy8000
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Post Sat Jan 28, 2006 1:14 am

thanks all,will be fitting over the weekend,let u know if i need any help 8O