LOWER ARMS

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LeeUK
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Post Wed Jan 28, 2015 1:27 pm

Hi Guys,

My steering wheel has to be turned roughly 45 degrees to the left in order to go straight. I had an impact with the curb and am looking at replacing lower arms, track rod ends, anti sway and the steering rack.

I found this kit on ebay for lowers arms etc ...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-E30-FRONT ... 23256018f2


Will this kit be ok ? Has anyone had any experiences with it.

I need to get my car through an MOT and don't have loads of money to throw at it as other parts also need sorting.


Thanks
Lee
capri_rob
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Post Wed Jan 28, 2015 1:42 pm

No experience wi this kit but cheap components which contain bushes are usually garbage and won't last 5 minutes.

I would check exactly what is damaged and source Lemforder or febi parts from ECP or GSF prioritising the damaged components first. It will cost a bit more but not much and will last a lot longer.

Good luck
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LeeUK
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Post Wed Jan 28, 2015 6:41 pm

I think that is part of the plan! Going to get it on some ramps hopefully this weekend and have a look what's damaged!

Had a look into it, Both Lemforder Font arms, Both Lemforder track rod ends and both ball joint for about £150 on ECP. What else do I need ? Im new to this and trying to teach myself

Cheers mate
Grrrmachine
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Post Wed Jan 28, 2015 7:19 pm

LeeUK wrote:IWhat else do I need ? Im new to this and trying to teach myself
Get yourself a ball joint splitter. If this is your first time, you will find that getting control arms off can be a right pain in the arse. One of these (even the simple tuning-fork shape ones) makes the job extremely simple.
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Brianmoooore
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Post Wed Jan 28, 2015 7:22 pm

If it's just damage you're trying to repair, rather than replacing worn components, then you won't need more than a fraction of the parts you list.
Testing and diagnosis is the first part of the process, starting with measuring the toe of both front wheels with the steering wheel straight.
All you need is a flat piece of ground, a length of string, a ruler, and (if it's standard E30 suspension and wheels), six small pieces of 4mm hardboard or plywood. I've posted the method on here more than once, so use the 'search' function.
Measure the rear wheel toe, and make up a camber gauge as well to measure that while you're at it.
Grrrmachine
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Post Wed Jan 28, 2015 8:26 pm

The method Brian is referring to is explained here:

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... ed#Testing
LeeUK
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Post Wed Jan 28, 2015 10:59 pm

Thank you guys! going to have a look at it hopefully this weekend!
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Brianmoooore
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Post Wed Jan 28, 2015 11:25 pm

Grrrmachine wrote:The method Brian is referring to is explained here:

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... ed#Testing
First time I've seen that Wiki article, and it has an important omission in it! It's essential that the two pieces of string down each side of the car are parallel to each other, which they won't be if the string is wrapped around the wheels on identical packing pieces, since the rear track of an E30 is 8mm greater than the front.
To get the string parallel, you need an extra 4mm of packing on each rear tyre, which is why I said SIX pieces of 4mm ply.

Camber gauge: The 'inner' piece of wood will need two woodscrews screwed partly into it, by exactly the same amount, just over 15" apart for 15" wheels, to make contact with the wheel rim. Just lying the wood up against the tyre will produce an inaccurate reading because of the bulge at the bottom of the tyre caused by the weight on it.