Can't trace the battery drain

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Brianmoooore
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Post Fri Jan 02, 2015 9:58 pm

I've experienced plenty of faults in the central locking, but the drain would be disappearing through fuse 27.
bss325i
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Post Sat Jan 03, 2015 12:46 am

The later diagrams DO show connectors and splices, have you only looked at the block diagrams which are listed early on and usually only for DME, power and earth?

The diagram you are on about is for the door pin switches and interior light delay right? Look at page 82 in the link i posted, plenty of connector numbers and splices. Interior light delay did exist on those cars as well.

I have used these very diagrams to sort out interior light and central locking issues on a RHD 318iS.

Never had difficulty following BMW ETM type wiring diagrams but then i guess its what you are used to and other than the lack of HLWW, have never had an issue using the LHD diagrams for RHD cars as they are pretty much the same with only some minor detail differences which are easy enough to figure out.

All BMW diagrams are like this for every thing from E36/E34 onward.

For some reason, BMW produced ETM's for North american E30's, E28's and E24's but for RHD UK spec
http://www.bmrperformance.co.uk

BMW and MINI specialist - Gatwick
daz_j
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Post Sat Jan 03, 2015 7:49 pm

I pulled the driver's footwell trim panel and speaker out today, and had a look at the wiring behind there. It revealed a bit of bodging from the alarm installation.

The driver’s door pin switch has 2 connections, brown/blue and brown/yellow. The br/bl wire has had 2 alarm wires connected into it by stripping back the insulation, twisting the ends of the 2 new wires round then soldering them. Not sure why they would do this rather than just use a connector? Anyhow, one wire goes straight into the alarm control unit, but I traced the other one right back to the boot light. It’s obviously meant to trigger the alarm if the boot is broken into, but in doing so is bridging the fuse 21 & 28 circuits. I disconnected it and the odd behaviours I previously reported have now gone.

Nice to get to the bottom of that problem but the champagne is still on ice as this hasn’t improved the battery drain ”“ still 120mA dropping to ~60mA when F21 is out.
appletree
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Post Sun Jan 04, 2015 12:48 pm

I've just been going through the joys of sorting out a bodged car alarm to, some of this might help you.

This is how the main power to my alarm had been wired in.

Image

And also this which I haven't worked out what it does yet?

Image


Went to the other two pin white plug here with the green wires.

Image

Might also be worth looking at your hazard switch as they seam to like to tap into that for the indicator flash and main power.

Hope you sort it



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You should never underestimate the predictability of stupidity

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daz_j
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Post Sun Jan 04, 2015 8:59 pm

appletree wrote:Might also be worth looking at your hazard switch as they seam to like to tap into that for the indicator flash and main power.
Hope you sort it
Thanks mate, the alarm connections under my dash look OK but the ones down behind the footwell panel have just been twisted and soldered like your 2nd photo. I haven’t attempted to trace any more of the wires yet though.

The alarm has always worked fine, but by pulling its fuses I can see it’s using about 50mA. According to the user manual this should only be 13mA when the alarm is off. I've tried searching online for the installation manual / wiring diagram but no luck so far (Laserline 996V3).

Also got about 60mA disappearing via the fuse 21 circuit and about 10mA via fuse 27. So it's keeping me busy!