325 fuel relay out and still get power!?

[MatZZ]

Hi, I have been trying to solve out why the car won't start with the m20 conversion. So far I worked out there is no fuel, checked made sure there is good body / engine earth 2 straps. Fuel pump works with a 12 volt battery hooked up to it. The plug hasn9 volts In it but even when I pull the middle and last relay out just the main in. Whaaaaat is going on :/

[kam-325i]

Which plug has 9v where ?

[MatZZ]

At the pump. Where the inspection hole is not the 3 pin plug but the 2 pin. Any ideas ?

[kam-325i]

what was it converted from ?

[MatZZ]

1.8 manual, 1990 manual :/

[kam-325i]

see if you have the same 9v at the socket of the fuel pump relay...

[MatZZ]

I would it matter as when I pull the relay out the power is still there

[kam-325i]

I would it matter as when I pull the relay out the power is still there

Ok.....wiring diagram time....

[MatZZ]

Of? Can't see how it would still get power there unless there the loom was bodged

[Brianmoooore]

Any voltage measured at the pump plug with the pump disconnected is likely to be misleading, since very small leakage currents are sufficient to work the average digital volt meter. Readings need to be taken with a 5W bulb connected to the plug, or something like a 100 ohm resistor.

[kam-325i]

that's what I am thinking....but 9v is a bit strange...

[kam-325i]

pull out fuse 11 and see if there is still the 9v at the pump...

[MatZZ]

Ok ill pull out the fuse tomorrow then i know if its wired correctly or someone bodged it up. Cheers guys ill update tomorrow

[MatZZ]

pulled fuse 11 and still get 8-9 volts at the pump !? also got no spark ;/

any ideas?

found this coming from the loom, probs something to do with it

[MatZZ]

bit better size. Also im sure the relays are correct?

[MatZZ]

I just put a external 12v battery to the pump with a fuse and the pump works perfectly but you can hear gas/air leaking out the fuel rail all the time.

[MatZZ]

Not too sure Will i got the engine on the cheap, i used a getrag260 and same for the flywheel.

How could i tell the difference??

[Brianmoooore]

Engine, flywheel and gearbox all from the same car, or from different sources?
Numbers off of the engine ECU will be useful to identify just what you have.

[MatZZ]

nope box flywheel from a different car :/ ahhh does that mean new engine or transmission set up??

[Brianmoooore]

willnz and his observant eye might well be onto something then. Does the engine loom and ECU definitely go with your engine, and do you have the ECU number?

[MatZZ]

Yeah everything connected including the c101 round plug just cut out pin 20 abs one as one side was brown and other yellow / red.

Ill get the ecu number tomorrow as i installed it and its in the car.

Any other ways of checking the cps differences?

[Brianmoooore]

Crank sensors are completely different. The old set up that will suspects you have has two sensors mounted into the bell housing of the gearbox on the LH side, operated by a magnetic pin pressed into the flywheel. Later set up uses a single sensor mounted low down on the front right side of the engine, operated by a toothed steel pulley attached to the crank pulley.
Old set up also has a sensor operated by the crank pulley, but this is only used for diagnostic purposes.

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... Management

[MatZZ]

0261 200 173 is my ecu number. Would this have the old style cps??

[Brianmoooore]

173 ECU is the later Motronic 1.3, used '88 - '90, is arguably the best 1.3 ECU of the three types used, and is triggered by a crank position sensor mounted at the front right of the engine in conjunction with a toothed wheel fixed onto the crank pulley.
This set up can be used with any version of the flywheel and gearbox.

Disconnect the three pin plug to the crank sensor, underneath the diagnostic socket at the top front of the engine and measure the resistance between pairs of pins in the plug. Two of the possible combinations should read open circuit, but the third pair should read 540 ohms.
Also check that there is 12 volts between the + terminal of the ignition coil and the main earthing terminal on top of the front left suspension turret when the ignition is on, and when cranking the engine.

[MatZZ]

I don't have 12v at the coil from what I remember testing, I'll make sure tomorrow i don't as well as the crank shaft sensor resistance. I'll update tomorrow

Thanks a lot for being as pacient as you are lol. I'm going slowly mad with it.

[Brianmoooore]

If there isn't, connect a piece of wire between the coil + (with the existing wiring still connected) and the battery + terminal, and try starting the engine.

[MatZZ]

Got the bugger running thanks guys

[Brianmoooore]

Well, let us all share the secret then! What was it?

[MatZZ]

Not too sure had few split wires at the loom. soldered them together and the cps didnt look the greatest so i soldered it back together

[MatZZ]

also run the fuel pump fused on a switch for the moment.