M20B28 Stroker
Moderator: martauto
Hi guys, my M20B28 build is in progress and I've my first problem, sorry for my english, i got to try to be understood
My Stuff:
m20b25 block, m52b28 crankshaft, 9.7 pistons with skirt ablation, OEM 1.75mm head gasket.
The problem is when i measure the valves openning when piston on TDC is not enought only 5.4 & 4.2mm for exaust and intake.
The B28 strocker already know this problem and what the best solution? put a thicker gasket ? i don't want to lost to much VR with a big one but i want my B28 running
Thanks for reading.
My Stuff:
m20b25 block, m52b28 crankshaft, 9.7 pistons with skirt ablation, OEM 1.75mm head gasket.
The problem is when i measure the valves openning when piston on TDC is not enought only 5.4 & 4.2mm for exaust and intake.
The B28 strocker already know this problem and what the best solution? put a thicker gasket ? i don't want to lost to much VR with a big one but i want my B28 running
Thanks for reading.
For the moment i don't know wich cams i'm gonna use, all need to be clear in clearance and measurements before ordering camshaft.
For the measurement i've done, it's from the top of the head, by the tail of the valve and the top of the guide. First when valve closed and after valve open in contact with piston at TDC, i do the Subtraction and i found my measurements.
For the measurement i've done, it's from the top of the head, by the tail of the valve and the top of the guide. First when valve closed and after valve open in contact with piston at TDC, i do the Subtraction and i found my measurements.
that seems pretty normal, a stock cam when setup with clearance is slightly less than 1mm lift at TDC on both valves. so this would have plenty of clearance. even something like a schrick 288 looks like it would probably fit though this may not be the best choice for what you want.
obviously you need to check with clay with final assembly as the closest point is not at TDC its at just after TDC on inlet (valve chases piston down) and just before TDC on exhaust (piston chases valve up)
obviously you need to check with clay with final assembly as the closest point is not at TDC its at just after TDC on inlet (valve chases piston down) and just before TDC on exhaust (piston chases valve up)
E30 325is with M20B31
max valve lift is usually between 105 and 114 ATDC by this time the piston is about 55mm or more down the hole.MikeM20 wrote:I don't know why i was thinking the Max lift is in TDC, Thanks for the explaination and forget my question
between TDC and 20* ATDC is most likely area for inlet valve collision
E30 325is with M20B31
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Your right, those ENEM profile do look interesting, would be nice to see a cam card or the ramp ratio of those to get some idea of the overall profile and accelerations.reggid wrote:id use schrick 284/272 (works well for NA engine) over the catcams. not seen anyone use the dbilas or ENEM. i like the specs on the ENEM
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i like it because the LSA is tighter at 108 than other manufacturers with the same sort of duration and the duration appears a little milder and its not a split duration like the Schrick. This is a similar philosophy to what Alpina did with their cam
E30 325is with M20B31
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Yes, agreed, The LSA on some of the aftermarket cams seems very wide, these heads need lift more than duration and the wide LSAs just push the power up the rpm range where most M20s are just running out of steam.
The 264/264 108LSA 11.7mm lift cam seems like a really good idea for a daily/livable engine.
My only concern would be the valve acceleration associated with high lift+short duration.
The 264/264 108LSA 11.7mm lift cam seems like a really good idea for a daily/livable engine.
My only concern would be the valve acceleration associated with high lift+short duration.
2.8 development thread http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... c&t=170822
m3.3.1 m20 thread - now running, chip needed - any volunteers?
http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... =viewtopic&
m3.3.1 m20 thread - now running, chip needed - any volunteers?
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with good springs (new rockers of course) it wouldnt be hard to make it live, its not pushing the envelope IMO compared to other engines out thereHairyScreech wrote:Yes, agreed, The LSA on some of the aftermarket cams seems very wide, these heads need lift more than duration and the wide LSAs just push the power up the rpm range where most M20s are just running out of steam.
The 264/264 108LSA 11.7mm lift cam seems like a really good idea for a daily/livable engine.
My only concern would be the valve acceleration associated with high lift+short duration.
the dbilas 276 has high lift and short duration. i measured one out for a friend who used one in a B28 it made very good torque. it actually had only 5degrees more duration at 1mm yet lifted to 11.7mm. The LSA was same as stock.
with a little more duration and 4 degrees tighter it would be pretty good
E30 325is with M20B31
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It might be worth asking ENEM if they can grind the 11.7mm lift on the 280 duration cam with a touch tighter LSA.
It might not me too tricky, certainly the tighter LSA is possible, the extra lift might be more difficult though.
As the m20 is a 2v it's got large valves, which obviously means lots of lift to get the L/D right.
0.3L/D is 12.6 for the stock valve! The 10.3mm lift of the stock cam leave so much available even with a stock head.
It might not me too tricky, certainly the tighter LSA is possible, the extra lift might be more difficult though.
As the m20 is a 2v it's got large valves, which obviously means lots of lift to get the L/D right.
0.3L/D is 12.6 for the stock valve! The 10.3mm lift of the stock cam leave so much available even with a stock head.
2.8 development thread http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... c&t=170822
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i asked them for duration at 1.0mm but they were less than helpful!HairyScreech wrote:It might be worth asking ENEM if they can grind the 11.7mm lift on the 280 duration cam with a touch tighter LSA.
It might not me too tricky, certainly the tighter LSA is possible, the extra lift might be more difficult though.
As the m20 is a 2v it's got large valves, which obviously means lots of lift to get the L/D right.
0.3L/D is 12.6 for the stock valve! The 10.3mm lift of the stock cam leave so much available even with a stock head.
stock head backs up a bit at high lifts so it might not pay off to go to wild without some basic touchup work to the head
E30 325is with M20B31
Hi all !
After some lot of work on the chassis for eliminate corrosion, i'm back with my b28 ! and with another problem too !
When i tight the rods on crankshaft the engine is impossible to turn and i have no axial clearance on some rods
I think the rods bearing (oemM20b25, 45mm) installed are not in accordance with the M52 crank.
The m52 rod bearing is normaly the same for M20b20-25 rods no ?
The rod bearing installed on m52 engine when i disassemble was pn: 1284849/850 and i don't understand because on bmw fans that's for E28 525e !
I've made some measurements on width rod bearing and i found 15.342mm on my oem m20b25 and 15.283mm with the bearing installed on the m52b28.
What do you think ?
After some lot of work on the chassis for eliminate corrosion, i'm back with my b28 ! and with another problem too !
When i tight the rods on crankshaft the engine is impossible to turn and i have no axial clearance on some rods
I think the rods bearing (oemM20b25, 45mm) installed are not in accordance with the M52 crank.
The m52 rod bearing is normaly the same for M20b20-25 rods no ?
The rod bearing installed on m52 engine when i disassemble was pn: 1284849/850 and i don't understand because on bmw fans that's for E28 525e !
I've made some measurements on width rod bearing and i found 15.342mm on my oem m20b25 and 15.283mm with the bearing installed on the m52b28.
What do you think ?
Today I disassembled the engine, to know what's going on inside !
The good thing is now I know why the engine was blocked, the bad is now I have more questions !
I found some rods bearings without the grey coating, with a shinny area, they was new so, I don't understand why just by hand turning the crankshaft I have this result on my bearings !
After I took off rods and pistons and number 6 was totaly seized on the axle.
The few questions I have right now:
I should replace the bearings, the pistons axles?
Thanks

The good thing is now I know why the engine was blocked, the bad is now I have more questions !
I found some rods bearings without the grey coating, with a shinny area, they was new so, I don't understand why just by hand turning the crankshaft I have this result on my bearings !
After I took off rods and pistons and number 6 was totaly seized on the axle.
The few questions I have right now:
I should replace the bearings, the pistons axles?
Thanks

p/n for standard size rod shells are same on m20, m52,m50, US S50/S52 etc
you really should be measuring the crankpins and bore size of assembled and torqued rod to get clearances and right bearings, plus plastigauge etc. if you dont know how there are professionals for this as get it wrong and its a catastrophe in the making
you really should be measuring the crankpins and bore size of assembled and torqued rod to get clearances and right bearings, plus plastigauge etc. if you dont know how there are professionals for this as get it wrong and its a catastrophe in the making
E30 325is with M20B31
Ok today i take my time for know exactly what I have !
I have done my crankshaft measurments and I found 44.98 & 59.98, so this is standard size right ?
For my rods bearing attrition, it's probaly some bullshit i've done
During the rods balancing i mix rods and rods end and now without bearings I found them not really flush, after a check I found numbers engraved on them, so my problem come from here right ? Shame on me !!
Now I put correct rods with right ends and everything's flush
Do you think I should replace my shinny rods bearings ?
Thanks
I have done my crankshaft measurments and I found 44.98 & 59.98, so this is standard size right ?
For my rods bearing attrition, it's probaly some bullshit i've done

During the rods balancing i mix rods and rods end and now without bearings I found them not really flush, after a check I found numbers engraved on them, so my problem come from here right ? Shame on me !!
Now I put correct rods with right ends and everything's flush

Do you think I should replace my shinny rods bearings ?
Thanks
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Were those bearings put in dry?
2.8 development thread http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... c&t=170822
m3.3.1 m20 thread - now running, chip needed - any volunteers?
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m3.3.1 m20 thread - now running, chip needed - any volunteers?
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Back few years later, but engine's running well !!
last week on dyno and i'm really happy for the results !!
But for the last step im starting to look Dbilas or RHD ITB, i dont know wich one are the best ...
So my conf is
2.8 engine 130 rods
11.4vr
299 cat cams aac
Dta s80
228.4 hp @6125
289.6Nm @ 5314
last week on dyno and i'm really happy for the results !!
But for the last step im starting to look Dbilas or RHD ITB, i dont know wich one are the best ...
So my conf is
2.8 engine 130 rods
11.4vr
299 cat cams aac
Dta s80
228.4 hp @6125
289.6Nm @ 5314
RHD ITB are better by along way. Dbilas are rubbish except in the aesthetics department.MikeM20 wrote: ↑Mon Apr 19, 2021 7:30 amBack few years later, but engine's running well !!
last week on dyno and i'm really happy for the results !!
But for the last step im starting to look Dbilas or RHD ITB, i dont know wich one are the best ...
So my conf is
2.8 engine 130 rods
11.4vr
299 cat cams aac
Dta s80
228.4 hp @6125
289.6Nm @ 5314
Can you post up a sheet i'm interested to see the torque curve with that cam
E30 325is with M20B31
Sorry i dont understand what you mean regarding prices with the forum.
Get the the one with plenum not open stacks
https://racehead.com.au/product/bmw-m20-itb-kit-e30/
its very affordable for a ITB kit as its basically a complete kit (not something where you need a bunch of options ($$$) and do linkages, fuel system and idle control from scratch etc, but it is not cheap in an absolute sense per se. The $$$ per hp is hard to beat for a bolt on item though.
thanks for the dyno sheet. What exhaust setup are you running?
E30 325is with M20B31
what you mean regarding prices with the forum -- Yes
Get the the one with plenum not open stacks -- but behind the plenum there open stacks right ?
"All kits are supplied with polished silver trumpets and polished carbon fiber Plenum/ Air-box. See our other listing if airbox is not required."
It's looks like this on the pictures
Gonna order the 42mm
Exhaust setup:
Hartge Manifold & scopion exausts
Get the the one with plenum not open stacks -- but behind the plenum there open stacks right ?
"All kits are supplied with polished silver trumpets and polished carbon fiber Plenum/ Air-box. See our other listing if airbox is not required."
It's looks like this on the pictures
Gonna order the 42mm
Exhaust setup:
Hartge Manifold & scopion exausts
have not seen a GB on these forums for itMikeM20 wrote: ↑Wed Apr 21, 2021 6:57 amwhat you mean regarding prices with the forum -- Yes
Get the the one with plenum not open stacks -- but behind the plenum there open stacks right ?
"All kits are supplied with polished silver trumpets and polished carbon fiber Plenum/ Air-box. See our other listing if airbox is not required."
It's looks like this on the pictures
Gonna order the 42mm
Exhaust setup:
Hartge Manifold & scopion exausts
i just meant get the airbox as well, its the same except for the addition of the composite air box. When you add the air box the stacks are enclosed within the airbox and not considered open.
E30 325is with M20B31
Hi guys,
I've replaced my camshaft for a 302° CatCams and i think my clearance is not enought between pistons and valves.
Engine rotating well by hand but when i look thouhgt the spark hole with a boroscope, it's look around 1mm to the closest point.
What should be the minimum clearance for that kind of M20 ?
Thx
I've replaced my camshaft for a 302° CatCams and i think my clearance is not enought between pistons and valves.
Engine rotating well by hand but when i look thouhgt the spark hole with a boroscope, it's look around 1mm to the closest point.
What should be the minimum clearance for that kind of M20 ?
Thx
some catcams datasheets sayMikeM20 wrote: ↑Tue May 21, 2024 3:20 pmHi guys,
I've replaced my camshaft for a 302° CatCams and i think my clearance is not enought between pistons and valves.
Engine rotating well by hand but when i look thouhgt the spark hole with a boroscope, it's look around 1mm to the closest point.
What should be the minimum clearance for that kind of M20 ?
Thx
"distance between valve and piston 1.0mm (pref. 1.5mm). check 5-15° before TDC on exhaust, and after TDC on intake"
http://www.catcams.com/products/camshaf ... ge=english
E30 325is with M20B31
If you are down to around 1mm, I would be getting the plasticine out (or nicking it from the kids
) and check it properly.
Also make sure your valve springs are up to it. Schrick say that anything above their 288 must have upgraded valve springs.

Also make sure your valve springs are up to it. Schrick say that anything above their 288 must have upgraded valve springs.