HELP PLEASE! 325i Won't Start...

Post Sun Sep 14, 2014 6:08 pm

Never happened before but my 1986 325i won't start...

It turns over but is just not firing into action. What should I be looking at?

Thanks in advance for any help and advice...

Post Sun Sep 14, 2014 6:24 pm

Have a look at this...

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... oubleshoot

Post Mon Sep 15, 2014 7:20 pm

@ jmc330i Thank you for the info

@ diable don't be ridiculous....

so it turns out it may have needed some fuel...but in my defence the gauge was not even in the red, and I also did not try it today before putting a jerry can of fuel in it...

Oh well, you live and learn...

Post Mon Sep 15, 2014 7:53 pm

Post Sun Sep 28, 2014 1:09 pm

Ok, so now I know I have an issue...

Filled the tank, have driven 19 miles and she would not start this morning...

Am I looking at a fuel pump replacement? I need the easiest, quickest and cheapest solution (not particularly in that order...)

Any help appreciated

Post Sun Sep 28, 2014 2:01 pm

Again, you need to work through that troubleshoot guide and tell us what symptoms you have. "It won't start" could be anything from a dead battery to a bent piston rod, and everything in between.

Post Sun Sep 28, 2014 2:18 pm

Gavla wrote: @ diable don't be ridiculous....

In the last three years I have had to have a car recovered on two occasions. In both cases the cure was to add petrol to the fuel tank.

Post Sun Sep 28, 2014 3:37 pm

@Grrrmachine
My first post explains the problem as best I can explain it...

@Brianmoooore
I am not quite sure what you are saying...

When I first posted this the car would not fire into action. The petrol gauge read 1/4 of a tank. I thought I would put more in just in case and that worked. All was good and on Thursday I decided to fill the tank. I have driven 19 miles, the petrol gauge is reading 3/4 full but the car is not firing into action as per the first post. While driving it yesterday I also felt that it was a bit sluggish when I put my foot down, it did not "bolt" forward into action (not sure if this is related).

Post Sun Sep 28, 2014 3:52 pm

Simply pointing out that an experienced mechanic can be caught out by lack of fuel! On the first occasion everything was indicating that the car was running on LPG, but a fault with the LPG system meant it was actually running on petrol and ran out. On the second occasion, one of the fuel level sensors has stuck in the full position, so the gauge read half full e
when the tank was empty.

First thing to check, in your case, is whether the fuel pump is running when cranking the engine.

Post Sun Sep 28, 2014 3:53 pm

have you changed the fuel filter recently? had a car run low before then when i filled up the fuel filter got completely full of crap from the tank. best to check all the cheap and easy things.

+1 for jmc330i

Have a look at this...

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... oubleshoot

Post Sun Sep 28, 2014 4:22 pm

Brianmoooore wrote: First thing to check, in your case, is whether the fuel pump is running when cranking the engine.

This

Post Sun Sep 28, 2014 5:10 pm

Thanks gents,

Sorry to sound like a complete idiot...how do I check that the fuel pump is running when cranking the engine?

Post Sun Sep 28, 2014 5:22 pm

Common Problems
Before attempting ANY work on the fuel system, it is important to de-pressurise the system by removing Fuse 11 and cranking the engine until it refuses to fire. If you are trying to diagnose fuel problems, you must still de-pressurise the system first.
No Fuel to Engine
If your engine is not starting, it is important to ascertain whether the engine is receiving both fuel and spark. Make sure you have tested for spark before you proceed further. If you are not receiving spark or fuel, check the Crank Position Sensor.
If spark is definitely present, the test to see if any fuel is reaching your engine is to detach one of the hoses in the engine bay, put the end into a container (such as a water bottle) and then crank the engine. If fuel gets to the bottle, you have fuel. To do this:
De-pressurise the system by removing Fuse 11 and cranking the engine
Locate the thick rubber hoses leading to the FPR or fuel rail
Undo the jubilee clip to the nearest accessible hose, pull the hose off and put the end into a securely-placed container
Replace Fuse 11
Crank the engine for a few seconds
Check the bottle
If fuel is present in the bottle, your fuel system is working; however, your injectors may not be delivering the fuel to the cylinders. If this is the case, check your DME relay.
If fuel is NOT present, elements of the system must be eliminated to identify the cause. Follow these steps to troubleshoot the system:
Check Fuse 11
Identify and remove the Fuel Pump Relay.
With the relay removed, bridge pins 30 (red wire) and 87 (green/violet) to directly power the fuel pump. Turn on ignition, and check for fuel.
If fuel is now present, the fault lies in the controlling system.
If no fuel is present, remove the fuel filter and place a suitable fluid containter here. Crank engine. If fuel is now present, replace your fuel filter.
If fuel is still not present, the fault lies with your fuel pump.

in the wiki

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... #Fuel_Pump

Post Sun Sep 28, 2014 5:28 pm

Gavla wrote:.how do I check that the fuel pump is running when cranking the engine?

Pull up the rear seat base, remove the inspection cover, and listen to it.

Post Sun Sep 28, 2014 6:50 pm

Thanks Blazed...I did read that part of the wiki

Thanks Brian, I suppose I can manage that...

Post Sun Sep 28, 2014 7:02 pm

ok, so my fuel pump is making a buzzing sound...

I guess I simply follow the Wiki steps above, watch this space...

Post Sun Sep 28, 2014 7:36 pm

If it makes a buzzing sound, then power is getting to it, but a jammed pump also makes a bit of a buzzing noise as well, and without experience you won't know between the two, so you'll have to pull a pipe at the fuel rail to confirm it's actually pumping fuel.
You've probably confirmed that the CPS is OK at the moment, but from your second post, this appears to possibly be an intermittent fault.

Post Sun Sep 28, 2014 8:04 pm

Thanks Brian, I will get round to this tomorrow hopefully.

Post Mon Sep 29, 2014 4:42 pm

Ok, so now I am even more baffled...

Took out fuse 11 and started the car...it fired into life...it took me by surprise so I switched it off. Put back fuse 11 and started the car and it fired into life. Switched off and tried again and not a problem it started up straight away...

There must be an intermittent fault as Brian suggests...the Wiki does me no good now? What are the usual suspects? Is it worth changing the CPS?

Post Mon Sep 29, 2014 5:01 pm

This diagnosis suggests that the car has a habit of overfuelling. This would be caused either by the blue temp sensor and its associated wiring, or by injectors in need of a rebuild.

The wiki will tell you how to TEST the blue temp sensor (don't just swap it), but you should get your injectors rebuilt as a matter of course via Injectortune, found in the Traders section.

Post Mon Sep 29, 2014 5:03 pm

Thanks

I fitted a blue temp sensor about 2 years ago as well as all refurbished injectors from injector tune...

Could this all need redoing again?

Could the fact that it felt a bit sluggish on Saturday be related?

Post Thu Oct 02, 2014 8:06 pm

still looking to solve this problem....

Car would not start again this morning...worked fine yesterday...

Post Thu Oct 02, 2014 8:21 pm

We're not going to get anywhere unless you work out why it's not starting when it doesn't.
Lack of spark? Lack of fuel? Too much fuel?

Post Thu Oct 02, 2014 11:05 pm

Thanks Brian, yes I agree...

I am going by the comments being made, what are your thoughts on the above post about the blue temp sensor and injectors?

I will do the "wiki testing" on Saturday morning when I get a chance...

My fuel gauge is reading half a tank, I have a sneaking suspicion if I put more fuel in it will start...

Post Thu Oct 02, 2014 11:23 pm

First check is for the fuel pump running when cranking, when it won't start. Leave the back seat base out and the cover off, so that you are ready to listen for it.
Just noticed this is an '86, so the pump may be external, in front of the LH rear wheel.
I don't think the problem is going to be with the actual injectors or the blue temp. sensor, unless Grrr is hinting that the non start may be as a result of a mixture too rich to ignite. Taking a spark plug out after a non start cranking session might be educational. See if it's dry, or wet with fuel, and what colour is the insulator?