removing brake rust from paintwork

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Lurch320i
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Post Sun Jan 13, 2013 11:38 am

Hi guys

bought a 325i sport locally and the previous owner has worn the brakes down so much that its covered the nearside in brake rust.its now all orangey-brown.is there anyway to remove this without damaging the paintwork or the tech 2 kit.
Ive been looking into clay kits or a painter told me to get some very fine grit paper and then use g3

Any advice would be great :-D[/code]
maxfield
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Post Sun Jan 13, 2013 11:46 am

I'd of thought a clay bar would of done the job.

But looking through the bilt hamber site last night, I found this but can't comment as I've never used it

http://www.bilthamber.com/cleaning-and- ... g/korrosol
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Lurch320i
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Post Sun Jan 13, 2013 11:58 am

That looks like some good stuff but its a bit worse than a few brake particles spread over the entire car.its rusted completely down the side of the car from the wing and wheel to the rear quarter.ill get a picture up to show what i mean.maybe a clay bar to get most off and then that stuff

As Ive never used a clay bar before do you just rub along the side of the car or is there any special technique?
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Post Sun Jan 13, 2013 9:12 pm

clay bar you just break of a "toffee pennmy" sort of sized bit, kneed it and spray bit of the lube on, and rub it back and forth, keep stopping and kneeding/turning/folding the clay and re lubing , instructions are on it, give it a go you have nothing to loose and is good to do the car anyway, just do small areas at a time until its clear- youl feel it glide smooth like glass when its done and youl soon see how it works,but be careful and soft- you dont rub it hard you glide it over gently, different areas have more/less crap on , if cars not garaged, get some polish and wax aswell, do each panel with all 3, before moving on to the next, you dont really want to clay a car then leave it with "bare paint" overnight/in weather/rain etc, or drive it, its well worth doing, just test a little area and see if it removes it, if it doesnt id probably go to a professional, or may want to anyway-as with g3 and fine grit paper, it abrases the paint and you dont want to blend that dusty stuff in to the paint and ruin it

you can also go to town-

wash
clay bar
paint renovator
super resin polish
wax

for a real decent end result

hope that helps
DanThe
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Post Sun Jan 13, 2013 10:00 pm

It wont be brake dust mate, more like some animal has sprayed the side while grinding or something, I had a problem like this with my chromie, I machine polished it not long after buying it but just used some all in one sealant afterwards, not proper wax/sealant etc, after it spent the next winter in the workshop it had a load of iron/rust embedded in the bonnet/roof/bootlid, I can only assume it was from grinding dust that had gone up in the air and settled on the panels, it was a major PITA to get off again, I used some hard clay which was the only thing that would remove it.
Whatever you do dont try and polish it out or you will make it worse!
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Lurch320i
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Post Mon Jan 14, 2013 7:12 pm

Its definately brake related.i know the car and the driver.i bought it like this and i was even in the car when he ran the brakes down.we were in Bala and the friction material fell off the metal backing plate and as he braked coming down the mountain it threw all this crud up the side of the car.

Ill order a clay bar kit and have a go on the wing.that can be replaced so no major disaster if i have to replace it.its just the door and quarter.ill get some pics this week to show you guys how bad it is

cheers for your input :-D
kitch
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Post Mon Jan 14, 2013 7:19 pm

Iron x! It's a product designed to neutralise iron particles on your paint. Especially brake dust on wheels.
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kitch
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Post Mon Jan 14, 2013 7:20 pm

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DanThe
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Post Mon Jan 14, 2013 7:23 pm

Oh right, well if the brakes were metal on metal then its probably like you say! 8O
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Lurch320i
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Post Mon Jan 14, 2013 7:24 pm

I found that stuff on another site when i googled the problem.will try that clay bar first to get the excess off then iron x

cheers
kitch
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Post Mon Jan 14, 2013 7:31 pm

No worries. It's good stuff, just stinks to use!
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Lurch320i
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Post Mon Jan 14, 2013 8:05 pm

So best using outdoors?

Needs a front caliper as the piston popped out and pissed brake fluid everywhere.but im building a big brake kit.should i getva second hand caliper to get the brakes working again or just wait till i finish the kit?dilemma
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Lurch320i
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Post Wed Aug 21, 2013 7:23 pm

Ok took a while to get some spare time to sort the car but i got a clay bar and lube.tried it today and it looks amazing now.i did the wing first so if i messed up i could replace it and it did the trick.so started the worst on the rear quarter.

Came off fantastically but ill have to order another clay bar as Ive nearly used all of it doing the one side
But i definately recommend it.even if your car wasn't as bad as mine.the paint is now as smooth as glass.gonna finish it at the weekend and then give it a good polish and wax

cheers for your help everyone

ill post up before and after pics
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m8782538
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Post Fri Aug 30, 2013 11:22 am

Iron decontaminant remover, then clay bar should sort it out.
DanThe
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Post Fri Aug 30, 2013 1:50 pm

Good to hear its worked, I used iron decontaminant (borrowed from a mate) on my track car wheels recently as they were really bad with rust from the performance pads and running them down to metal a few times, didnt work much at all and I ended up using acid to get it off
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m8782538
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Post Fri Aug 30, 2013 4:01 pm

I use Devils Blood from Ready to Valet. A really smelly clear gel, spray and leave, it will turn purple/red as it dissolves the iron particles. you may need to agitate it a bit after you let it well for a few mins. Then rinse and its done. It great stuff and not expensive. Plus you can use it on any part of the car.

When I have a full detail booked in I spray the entire car and wait 5mins, then rinse, then clay bar the car, the decontamination remover takes off more than a clay bar does.
DanThe
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Post Fri Aug 30, 2013 7:06 pm

How is your multi million pound valeting business by the way? :D
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Lurch320i
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Post Wed Sep 04, 2013 4:36 pm

Cheers for all the input guys.i have another bar on order as i couldn't finish the entire car with one bar.looks amazing and feels like glass now.im made up.it was my first time claying a car so was a bit nervous about scratching the paint but its turned out amazing.now need to sort the welding underneath and tidy up the leather interior before she's mint
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Lurch320i
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Post Fri Sep 06, 2013 7:32 pm

before photos, sorry for the rubbish phone pics
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it didnt look as good as that in the flesh, paint was alot more orange and rough as toast

since taking those my camera doenst want to work so will have to use the misses iphone so will upload ones of the car since claying it
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m8782538
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Post Mon Sep 16, 2013 1:22 pm

Business is going well, one of my customers won "Best Jap Car" at the Forge Action Day at the weekend. Got allsorts coming in from Daily drivers, sports and modified cars. Adverts in the local press and last months Fast Car Magazine.
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Lurch320i
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Post Sat Sep 06, 2014 5:48 pm

Just realised I never actually uploaded a finished photo so here you go.thanks to all that helped

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Speedtouch
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Post Sat Sep 06, 2014 6:04 pm

Looks good. Perhaps your pal inadvertently discovered the latest 'rat look' trick... winkeye
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Gavla
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Post Sat Sep 06, 2014 10:35 pm

The process should be;

wash - decontaminate paint - wash - cleanse paint - wash - seal paint

Do yourself a favour and buy a G3 clay mit from Halfrauds. It cuts the clay bar time down x 10...

Bilt hamber and Gtechniq products are what I use for my business with amazing results.
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Lurch320i
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Post Sat Sep 06, 2014 11:16 pm

Well I washed it, clay barred, polished then waxed

Felt like glass :) just need to fix the rest of it up now
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Kos
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Post Sat Sep 06, 2014 11:36 pm

As said before, iron x or any fall out remover

a clay bar will not touch embedded metal

i recently had a brand spanking new A class to sort out, the lady had the builders in and they were doing some welding and grinding and it just peppered the bonnet