M52B28 in heat

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martijn76
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Fri Aug 01, 2014 8:01 pm

I've got a problem since my M52 conversion and I'm a bit lost as this point.
The engine: I used a e30 sensor, big rad, new pump, new thermostat, etc. I capped off the throttle body pre-heat.
Vented a dozen times, lifted the front, interior vent on heating.
All the hoses are hot, interior gets warm.
When driving slow(50km/h) the temperature goes to 3/4 on the gauge and the fan brings it back to normal. This shouldn't happen when driving.
Even at 80-100 km/h (60mph) the temperature goes further than 1/2.
There's no sludge in the oil, no oil in the cooling liquid.
Is this a symptom of a cracked head or maybe normal for a e30 m52?
Any ideas?
jimbom30cab
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Fri Aug 01, 2014 9:02 pm

What temp stat have you used, 80 degree is recommended iirc
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Brianmoooore
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Fri Aug 01, 2014 9:54 pm

Sounds like a combination of an inadequate radiator and an 88 or 90 degree thermostat.
DanThe
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Fri Aug 01, 2014 11:04 pm

M52 standard stat is 92 degrees C, which will send the E30 gauge up to 3/4
Use an 88 or 80 stat
martijn76
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Sat Aug 02, 2014 9:59 am

I used an e30 88 stat, the radiator is a Behr 328i aircon.
The rad gets hot before the gauge is on 50%.
What engine uses a 80 degrees stat?
Motorhole
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Sat Aug 02, 2014 10:18 am

2.0-litre M50 iirc. Try E34 525i with M50 engine or early E36 325i. Realoem is your friend :)
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Brianmoooore
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Sat Aug 02, 2014 10:21 am

Don't understand why anyone would want to run an 80 degree 'stat.
An engine runs more efficiently the hotter it is, and the limiting factor is local boiling at the hottest points in the head. Presumably, the M5x heads are a better design compared to the M20 heads in this respect, with less 'hot spots' and so can run hotter coolant.
The gauge sitting just past halfway equates to 88 degrees, and the needle should quickly rise to there after start up (within a mile) and then stay there. If it rises significantly, then there's a defect in the cooling system.
Has the engine been checked for a defective (plastic rotor-ed) water pump?
martijn76
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Sat Aug 02, 2014 10:40 am

The engine had a metal rotor pump, I bought a new pump but that didn't make any difference.
To recap; every item that can be replaced in the cooling system, was bought new at BMW, accept a couple of hoses, all we're clean inside.
Demlotcrew
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Sat Aug 02, 2014 1:58 pm

Cooler engines are more powerful Brian :D
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Brianmoooore
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Sat Aug 02, 2014 2:13 pm

Demlotcrew wrote:Cooler engines are more powerful Brian :D
Not be any amount that anyone'll notice in the real world!
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327ire
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Mon Aug 04, 2014 11:21 pm

You might have already mentioned this but how is the ducting around the rad/ fan/ valance opening? Also the center grill can either be open vented or closed. I stuck an m52 in my 316i and noticed the middle grill in front of the rad was solid. The 316i valance has only 1 opening so opening that up helped me to.
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Mon Aug 04, 2014 11:36 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:
Demlotcrew wrote:Cooler engines are more powerful Brian :D
Not be any amount that anyone'll notice in the real world!
Sort of like the efficiency gains from running an engine hot.

I would much rather have a few more degrees "safety net" to spot the temperature gauge rising in the event of part of the cooling system failing than a fried head
AndyZippy
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Tue Aug 05, 2014 10:09 pm

^ Yea, this is why i am running an 80 deg thermostat, much happier running with that than the 88deg i had put in. However, i can switch back to the 88deg for the coldest months of winter if i feel i need to.

80 deg, by the way, is indeed from an M50 2.0. :thumb:
DanThe
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Tue Aug 05, 2014 10:39 pm

Just for comparison, my E39 540i runs at 110° for "efficiency"
The exploding hoses and cracked rad dont seem to be very efficient at doing their job :(

Oh, and my average mpg is 13.7

Good old mechanical 87° stat is on its way 8)
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Fri Aug 08, 2014 9:17 pm

DanThe wrote:
Oh, and my average mpg is 13.7
Sublime :)
martijn76
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Mon Aug 11, 2014 5:28 pm

I measured for CO in the coolant and there's none :cool:
What I did noticed is that the coolant level in the expansion tank rises when I leave the cap off, like pressure is being build up in the engine, like with a blown head gasket.
I'm gonna remove the pump, stat etc and see if I can find a mechanical problem.
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Brianmoooore
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Mon Aug 11, 2014 7:20 pm

If you remove the pressure cap, you will lower the boiling point of the coolant by about ten degrees Celsius, and local boiling is likely to occur at the hottest parts, pushing the coolant level up in the bottle.
martijn76
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Mon Aug 11, 2014 7:38 pm

I took the cap off before start, so the boiling point didn't change. I never started up without the cap on, so could be normal.
DanThe
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Mon Aug 11, 2014 8:27 pm

E30BeemerLad wrote:
DanThe wrote:
Oh, and my average mpg is 13.7
Sublime :)
You love it :)
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Brianmoooore
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Mon Aug 11, 2014 10:00 pm

martijn76 wrote:I took the cap off before start, so the boiling point didn't change.
Exactly, but the engine is designed to run with a boiling point that does increase by several degrees, as the engine comes up to running temperature.
Take the cap off when the engine is up to temp., and you're likely to be posting from the burns ward of your local hospital.
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hash
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Sun Aug 17, 2014 8:37 am

I have the same problem with my e30, even without a thermostat in place still creeps up during general driving but have tested for co2 in coolant and it's fine. I am using the same setup as you so if you resolve please let me now. Good luck.
martijn76
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Sun Aug 17, 2014 1:54 pm

I took the stat-housing and stat off, filled the engine with coolant, replaced the stat(although it was brand new) after I drilled a tiny hole in it.
While driving the temperature is in the middle now, as it should be.
So I think the problem is solved.
Now some warmer weather please to test it properly.
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