removing e30 diff?

Post Wed Jul 16, 2014 12:04 pm

Since Im keeping one of my sports and the other for parts my diff leaks like crazy and had its days.I Want to remove and swap both diff of both cars could i do this on my driveway and is it something a amateur could take on is their a video or post on how to do it and what would be needed ? both are sports and have the same diff

Post Wed Jul 16, 2014 12:07 pm

Zone Wiki is your friend:

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... fferential

Post Wed Jul 16, 2014 12:42 pm

whats the going rate on removal and fit ? lol

Post Wed Jul 16, 2014 2:06 pm

Depends where you take it and what there labour rate is. Last time I did one it took me under an hour. But that's on a lift with air tools.

Post Wed Jul 16, 2014 2:15 pm

joe, unless you enjoy scrabbling on your back with a trolley jack with a heavy lump of iron balanced on it (med case diffs are very heavy) take it to a local garage...im all for getting stuck in but some jobs are better to a garage.

Post Wed Jul 16, 2014 4:57 pm

It's a pretty easy job but only for the brave or skilled.

There's no tricks to it but it is big, heavy and under the car.

Post Thu Jul 17, 2014 9:33 am

Last diff I swapped was about 4 years back.

Likely problems.
Coming out...

Bolts that hold the diff to the carrier WILL be tight if the diff has not been out before.Soak in WD40 or similar.Access to these bolts is limited,you should be able to get a 19mm or 3/4AF socket on the forward pair with a reasonable bar length.However,the upper one's will need either a flat ring spanner or a combination spanner,a ratchet spanner may be helpful.For the upper bolts,I needed to link two spanners and use my feet to slacken off.

Driveshaft/diff flange.
These could be either allen head bolts or torx male bolts.The splined torx one's will be rusty and the splines will break off,leaving you with no choice but to go under there with Mr Angle Grinder.
The allen-headed bolts by comparision will be a walk in the park.
Lowering the unbolted diff via a trolley jack and a block of wood is no problem,but do not forget to dis-connect the speedo drive!

Going back.
Lifting the bloody thing with a trolley jack and a block of wood,whilst tyring to get the first bolt started and not having the bloody thing roll off the jack onto your oily mitt is great entertainment.
But once you have two bolts loosely home the fun part begins.You need to 'load' the axle carrier to allow it to flex so that all four bolts will go in,with just one pair in(loose!),'jiggle' the diff up and down with your jack whilst offering a finger to the other holes,when you can feel a complete hole

try the bloody bolt.

Whilst you have the thing on the floor,pull the back plate off and fit a new bush and gasket,easy on the floor,proper swine with the diff in.

Six months later,and at every six months,go back under the diff and check that the four mounting bolts are still tight,this may prevent your axle carrier bolt holes wearing oval and the diff falling off....

Post Thu Jul 17, 2014 1:04 pm

daimlerman wrote:Last diff I swapped was about 4 years back.

Likely problems.
Coming out...

Bolts that hold the diff to the carrier WILL be tight if the diff has not been out before.Soak in WD40 or similar.Access to these bolts is limited,you should be able to get a 19mm or 3/4AF socket on the forward pair with a reasonable bar length.However,the upper one's will need either a flat ring spanner or a combination spanner,a ratchet spanner may be helpful.For the upper bolts,I needed to link two spanners and use my feet to slacken off.

Driveshaft/diff flange.
These could be either allen head bolts or torx male bolts.The splined torx one's will be rusty and the splines will break off,leaving you with no choice but to go under there with Mr Angle Grinder.
The allen-headed bolts by comparision will be a walk in the park.
Lowering the unbolted diff via a trolley jack and a block of wood is no problem,but do not forget to dis-connect the speedo drive!

Going back.
Lifting the bloody thing with a trolley jack and a block of wood,whilst tyring to get the first bolt started and not having the bloody thing roll off the jack onto your oily mitt is great entertainment.
But once you have two bolts loosely home the fun part begins.You need to 'load' the axle carrier to allow it to flex so that all four bolts will go in,with just one pair in(loose!),'jiggle' the diff up and down with your jack whilst offering a finger to the other holes,when you can feel a complete hole try the bloody bolt.

Whilst you have the thing on the floor,pull the back plate off and fit a new bush and gasket,easy on the floor,proper swine with the diff in.

Six months later,and at every six months,go back under the diff and check that the four mounting bolts are still tight,this may prevent your axle carrier bolt holes wearing oval and the diff falling off....

Absolutely all of this.

Spent last night doing one and the above it 100% correct.

Only other thing I would add is that it will hang on the prop studs, don't lever it, just push the diff while turning the prop around.

Post Thu Jul 17, 2014 3:04 pm

Job done this morning a good friend of mine helped me well it took us just a little over 2 hours to swap em out

Post Thu Jul 17, 2014 3:28 pm

Not bad going. Good to hear you got it sorted.

Post Thu Jul 17, 2014 10:05 pm

Thanks was worth doing it with my pal good afternoon work had to treat him to a drink but never the less worth every moment

Post Thu Jul 17, 2014 11:13 pm

This is the one job I actually hate doing - typically I've just changed the diff on mine and I will be needing to change it again soon

My tip for the diff to carrier bolts is get one of these...

It makes life 10 times easier and there's no risk of linked spanners slipping/bending/breaking!
For the upper bolts, you may need a flexible ratchet spanner as not all sockets and ratchets will fit in the gap.