'91 318iS minor resto.. ;-)

Doing a minor build / restoration or an epic one, post it here

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Split_S
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Tue Jul 15, 2014 11:51 am

jimmyspeed wrote:nice repairs, almost identical too what i had to do, one thing i would recommend doing is covering the welds with a seam sealer or polyurethane sealant

I wouldn't say its essential on the inside, especially with the thick paint but on the outside 100% to stop the stone chips and any pinholes you might have left between the welds

Another good product is weld through primer, as its very hard to guarantee a full covering of paint on the inner sills, in the uk we have a upol version but i have seen some people use a high zinc spray can - it doesn't work perfect buts a good start
I agree. I haven't found a good quality seam sealer yet. This Por-15 stuff is more than paint, it becomes thick and hard as steel. My plan was to seal it all in with the POR-15, then recover with undercoat. On the underside of the car however, I will POR-15 all welds, then seam seal then undercoat. Im planning on doing the whole underside, that's why Im stalling on buying a seam sealer - I want good stuff.
Speak-slower wrote:Looking good there mate. I'm getting ready to weld up my IS. The earlier post where you did the jacking point is that what the end of the sill should look like? I need some reference to make sure it's right on mine.
I've primed all my bare metal with etch weld primer. Which is a zinc based weld through primer is that what you've done? I've got seam sealer for the welds but what's the benefit of the por-15 you've used? Cheers bud loving what you've done so far. - mike
Mike, I tried to keep the look identical. It's not critical because none of this shows as its covered by the plastic liner in the wheel well. My main goal was solid welds. The bottom of the sill was pretty rusted out and I used that metal bar because I had it. I didn't use weld through primer as, well, I didn't know it existed! I was told to always weld on CLEAN bare metal. This prevents contaminants in your welds which will make them weak and quicker to rust out. I also snip my mig wire after every weld, which may be extreme but stops you from welding with an oxidized tip of welding wire.
The benefit of POR-15 is, as far my research has found, that if you put it on properly (use the POR-15 degreaser which is AMAZING, then the POR-15 metal prep then the POR-15) those parts will never rust again. Ever. It is uber-resistant to everything. It ain't cheap though. But I don't have TOO much rust (!) to deal with so Im happy....Hope this helps..
hennared323i
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Tue Jul 15, 2014 11:55 am

Heh Heh, this thread just keeps getting better and better :D
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Speak-slower
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Tue Jul 15, 2014 12:09 pm

cheers for the advice i will definitely be getting some pro-15 then and snipping my wire.
i didn't know about the primer till my mate handed me a can. all the guides I've read about mig welding say to weld to bare metal. but I've been assured the primer is the mutts nuts.
good luck with the rest of your car! - mike
G-Bear
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Tue Jul 15, 2014 1:34 pm

Split_S wrote:
I haven't found a good quality seam sealer yet.

Im planning on doing the whole underside, that's why Im stalling on buying a seam sealer - I want good stuff.

I can't guarantee 100% but I thought 3M seam sealer is said to be good. Might be worth looking at..

http://catalogue.3m.co.uk/en_gb/gb-aad/ ... er%7E08537
Split_S
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Tue Jul 15, 2014 5:17 pm

Mike - You're welcome..

G-Bear...that's the product I want.. Im trying to find it on the left side of the Atlantic however... :D

hennared323i...wait till you see what I do next.... 8)
beemerbird
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Tue Jul 15, 2014 6:01 pm

If it ain't broke, fix it till it is
Split_S
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Tue Jul 15, 2014 6:48 pm

You Sir are AWESOME!!

Ordered two cans..

Thanks!
hennared323i
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Tue Jul 15, 2014 8:10 pm

Split_S wrote:
You Sir are AWESOME!!

Ordered two cans..

Thanks!
He he,

Sir?

Pain will soon be your friend
beemerbird
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Tue Jul 15, 2014 8:16 pm

I don't mind being called Sir when it's linked to the word Awesome :wink:

Fiona :giggle:
If it ain't broke, fix it till it is
Split_S
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Wed Jul 16, 2014 12:22 am

hennared323i wrote:
Split_S wrote:
You Sir are AWESOME!!

Ordered two cans..

Thanks!
He he,

Sir?

Pain will soon be your friend
I meant Sir in a, uh, nice female kinda way..I guess... 8O

I don't need more pain - Im already married!
jimmyspeed
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Wed Jul 16, 2014 6:00 pm

i agree the 3m stuff is great but very expensive, the only comparable stuff I've used is polyurethane sealant its cheap,black and has much stickiness - might be harder to get the oem stippled finish but if your not bothered a good option
Split_S
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Wed Jul 16, 2014 11:41 pm

I've already ordered the 3M sealant thanks to Beemerbird.
Going to put it over the POR-15, should be as rustproof as things get after that...
Last edited by Split_S on Thu Jul 17, 2014 12:04 am, edited 1 time in total.
beemerbird
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Wed Jul 16, 2014 11:51 pm

Split_S wrote:I've already ordered the 3M sealant thanks to Beemerbird
Going to put it over the POR-15, should be as rustproof as things get after that...
8)
If it ain't broke, fix it till it is
Split_S
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Thu Jul 17, 2014 12:05 am

Above post edited for stupidity... apologies Beemerbird... :o:
Split_S
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Thu Jul 17, 2014 10:23 pm

Oh NO! More welding!!....

Problem:

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Screwed this part up the first time. It's a tricky piece cause its curved (tricky for me that is...).. So on the second attempt..

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WELD!
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Not the best pic but its a smooth finish.. Im happy..
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Im getting a new welding helmet - one of those auto darkening jobbies.
Mine is a PITA...I'll need it cause the next section of the car I'll
be doing is scaring me... :eek:
Last edited by Split_S on Fri Mar 22, 2019 8:02 pm, edited 3 times in total.
G-Bear
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Fri Jul 18, 2014 8:36 am

Split_S wrote:
Im getting a new welding helmet - one of those auto darkening jobbies.
Makes all the difference. I haven't done much welding, but getting an auto darkening (and hands free) made things a lot easier..
Split_S
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Tue Jul 22, 2014 11:15 pm

It does make a difference!!

Feeling good about my welding "skills" Im tackling a biggie. This is what the back-end looked like when I first took things apart:

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A bit of grinding didn't inspire confidence in an easy solution...
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That was back in August of last year! This is now:

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Added a little primer a while back while I thought what to do.

And thought..and thought...and thought...

Finally, figured I knew how to go about it...

Step 1.

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Step 2.

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:D
Last edited by Split_S on Fri Mar 22, 2019 8:03 pm, edited 3 times in total.
G-Bear
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Wed Jul 23, 2014 8:19 am

Excellent work. Seeing as you're going that far (which is the only true way) have you looked underneath for rot where the rails meet the rear valance?
Split_S
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Wed Jul 23, 2014 8:18 pm

Yes I have... There is minimal rust...Many more pics to follow as I get this done...
Split_S
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Sun Jul 27, 2014 3:14 pm

I decided to replace the rear panel completely instead of trying to cut out and weld every rusted area.
So I ordered up the rear panel from BMW (about 200cdn or 110 in UK funny money).
Here I continued to cut out the panel..

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With most of it removed, the next part is to grind off the weld spots which you can clearly see in the pic below.

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If you haven't done this yourself, the panel is spot welded every 10cm or so..So it requires a grinder to grind
down the weld (or a special bit if you have one) and plyers to pry the steel back and keep repeating all across...

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Closeup... the seam sealer is tough as hell.. I used plyers and
the grinder with a wire brush to remove it where necessary...

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Last edited by Split_S on Fri Mar 22, 2019 8:04 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Split_S
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Mon Jul 28, 2014 12:49 pm

Cutting out the center section of the rear panel is the easy part...Once out of the way I had to concentrate on the attachment points and here is where patience pays off...

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I ground and pulled away the steel all along the bottom sill and it went pretty good. The scary part is grinding along the bottom corners, I was cautious, not wanting to cut away too much. I kept checking my clearances against my new panel..

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The trickiest part of the whole operation are these two top corners. The metal is thin and surprisingly I discovered as I went along that there was another layer of steel running underneath the outer edge.. You have to be really careful working these pieces...

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If you look at the rear part you will know where the steel is you need to remove...

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Here is a rear shot with all the steel of the original rear panel removed...

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Now that I'd done all that work I realized that there was absolutely no way the new panel would fit with these two pieces in place!

So I had 2 options:
1) Try to remove these corner pieces with the grinder (near impossible!)
2) Cut them out causing as little damage as possible...

That's what I chose to do...

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Test fitting of the new piece up next!!
Last edited by Split_S on Fri Mar 22, 2019 8:05 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Split_S
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Thu Aug 14, 2014 8:08 pm

Been working my *ss off, at work unfortunately and not in the garage - but things are advancing...

With all the stripping and grinding away of the old metal it was time to start some test fittings of the rear..

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Overall not bad but I had to widen the lower part of the rear wings...

Grind...grind..cut..swear...

Looking better...

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Also cut out a rust hole in the battery compartment..
before
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after..
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Now for more serious test fitting I figured I would put on the "new" boot lid and eyeballed it all..

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Getting ready to weld.... :D
Last edited by Split_S on Fri Mar 22, 2019 8:05 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Simon13
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Thu Aug 14, 2014 8:25 pm

Reminds me of the surgery my e30 had done, its in the photogallery if you get lost but it looks like you doing a grand job so far
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samuraibaz
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Sat Aug 16, 2014 10:17 pm

i have a brand new stainless steel 4 branch exhaust manifold for an E30 318is LHD need £100 for it if you are interested mate?
G-Bear
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Sat Aug 16, 2014 10:35 pm

samuraibaz wrote:i have a brand new stainless steel 4 branch exhaust manifold for an E30 318is LHD need £100 for it if you are interested mate?

+ postage to Canada...
Split_S
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Sat Aug 16, 2014 10:50 pm

Might be but Im not there yet... ;-)
hennared323i
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Sun Aug 17, 2014 6:55 pm

nom nom nom
Split_S
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Mon Aug 18, 2014 1:49 am

hennared323i wrote:nom nom nom

:?
hennared323i
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Mon Aug 18, 2014 9:03 am

Split_S wrote:
hennared323i wrote:nom nom nom

:?
All Good Stuff fella
Split_S
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Mon Aug 18, 2014 1:09 pm

Wasn't sure what you were getting at!!! :D
hennared323i
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Mon Aug 18, 2014 1:17 pm

Me munching on chips enjoying the goodness of this thread :D
Split_S
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Mon Aug 18, 2014 1:23 pm

With the old rear end removed and the rest cleaned up as best I could (Note: Grinder meets bare finger = NOT GOOD...) it was time to get the new rear end in... permanently...

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Now the super astute among you will notice this isn't quite a 318iS rear end (double cutaway for the exhaust). I did order a 318iS rear end but got this, which happily enough works better as I will be putting in some form of double tipped exhaust.

So I started by putting it in place (with the rear lights and boot closed) to make sure it was all properly lined up then traced a line along the frame of the car onto the rear panel. My idea was to be able to then drill holes through which I would weld the rear panel in. If you look closely at the rear panel again you can see all the holes I drilled out...

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I also sanded away all the areas that were gonna be welded on the rear panel to ensure a clean weld. Here you can see the cutout for the tow hook which, if you'll remember from a million years ago when I started I said I would delete...Well here it is ready to be deleted...

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The battery tray area was pretty rusted and required me to rebuild some of the corners so that I could weld the panel in...

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I also welded in a patch for that nasty hole in the battery compartment..

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Next up..the panel...
Last edited by Split_S on Fri Mar 22, 2019 8:06 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Split_S
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Tue Aug 19, 2014 1:14 pm

With everything ready I had no choice but to start welding!

Rear panel in with lights installed for final adjustments and a couple of bolts thru the bumper bolt holes
to hold the panel in place and I started to tack..

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tack tack..
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tack tack..
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tackety tack..
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inner tack tack...
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Stopped to assess..
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Looks good...
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Penetration is looking good too...
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Tow hook deleted!! :wink:
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Now the hard part... came out ok I guess...
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And finally, welding those corners back in...
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Done! Voila!!
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I wasted no time and ground down all my welds and painted on a coat of POR-15.

You know...

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Last edited by Split_S on Fri Mar 22, 2019 8:07 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Split_S
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Fri Aug 29, 2014 10:25 pm

For this next part my thanks to Chris Deegan who posted an excellent DIY on dash removal linked in the wiki...

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The guide doesn't mention the Mtech 1 steering wheel removal.. its basically the same just pop off center cap, loosen nut..

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There is a collar behind the nut...don't lose it...

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Next step is to get the board out...remove the top and bottom trim pieces first then pop the board out...
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Left side clips...
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Right side clips..
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Disconnected..
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This guy is next but I ran into "difficulties"...
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The right side bolt holding the unit in place won't come out because it pushes up against the electrical unit as seen once out...
Patience is a virtue getting this bastard out... just loosen it as much as you can..it should be enough...

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I didnt need to remove the center console as I already had LAST YEAR... So off to the right side and the glove box..

later...
Last edited by Split_S on Fri Mar 22, 2019 8:08 pm, edited 2 times in total.
hennared323i
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Sat Aug 30, 2014 4:16 pm

Ahhh

Dash removal

Enjoy :D
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