Central locking won't work with clicker

Post Tue Jul 01, 2014 5:01 pm

This is just to bypass the battery.
Because the power is the alarm backup if you cut the power lead it still rings.
Or is the battery power not needed?
If it's not needed I'll just leave it out with no wire connected.

Post Tue Jul 01, 2014 5:09 pm

Yes, it is the backup battery, to keep the alarm sounding if the car battery is disconnected.

As you say, the alarm would work off just the car battery, in which case, leave the alarm battery out with no wire bridging it.

Post Fri Jul 04, 2014 9:01 pm

Is that right brianmoore about not bridging the battery bit

Post Wed Jul 09, 2014 4:17 pm

So has anyone got a alarm the same as mine laying around?
So I can get it all working and back how it used to.
The reason I don't wanna get a new alarm fitted is because All the actuators work (no red/black wire mod) everything works but the sounder box.
But that could be because the battery's died and spilt there juices everywhere and the 2 wires came off so I put them where I thought they should be just looking at the broken bits of wire left still attached.

Post Wed Jul 09, 2014 4:51 pm

Or are there any replacements for alarm 82119418407 there prob isn't but worth a try.

Post Wed Jul 09, 2014 5:29 pm

I have an 82119401487, if that's any use?

Post Wed Jul 09, 2014 6:14 pm

What's it look like?

Post Wed Jul 09, 2014 6:22 pm

Like this:

http://i.marktplaats.com/00/s/NDgxWDgwM ... x/$_84.JPG

Post Wed Jul 09, 2014 6:26 pm

Don't think that's any good.
Can anyone else help.

Post Wed Jul 09, 2014 9:33 pm

Have you tested it since reattaching the wires?

Post Wed Jul 09, 2014 9:45 pm

Yes.
I got all excited thinking now it would work and it all seemed to then I tried to set the alarm off and nothing.
I did all this with it turned on and off, So I think this one might of had it when the batteries exploded in it and leaked there juice all over the circuit board.

Post Wed Jul 09, 2014 9:47 pm

Show us a pic of the board, so we can assess the damage.

Post Wed Jul 09, 2014 10:25 pm

After cleaning up best I can.

Post Wed Jul 09, 2014 10:28 pm

Doesn't look too drastic. Use a multimeter to check the continuity of each affected track, to ensure each measures around 0 ohms between end-to-end.

Post Wed Jul 09, 2014 10:28 pm

The juice was over pretty much everything before i cleaned it up.

Post Wed Jul 09, 2014 10:39 pm

Hopefully, the tracks should still be intact - use a multimeter to check. If they are broken, they can always be replaced with thin wire.

Post Wed Jul 09, 2014 10:49 pm

If I remove the casing again the wires are gonna come off again, And there not easy to solder back on
I dont believe the lock wires are where they should be so if theres anyone with one of these alarms help me out please.
Or if you have one spare complete(not sure why you would) sell me it please

Post Wed Jul 09, 2014 11:18 pm

Sounds like I'm just trying to be difficult but like everything else with this car I keep remembering its 24 years old

Post Thu Jul 10, 2014 4:07 pm

Would this alarm work.

Looks the same but has a different part number which makes me think it won't.
But it looks the same so I'm thinking it would maybe.
Someone could you help me ?

Post Thu Jul 10, 2014 4:09 pm

I daresay it may well work. Is it something you could perhaps borrow to check the wiring against yours?

Post Thu Jul 10, 2014 4:12 pm

This is my alarm wiring.

This is the other wiring

Ino there different but I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction.
That's on eBay so I can't borrow it to test

Post Thu Jul 10, 2014 4:14 pm

Well, if it's going cheap enough, buy it and see...

Post Thu Jul 10, 2014 4:17 pm

They want £40 for it.
I'm not buying it just to test out to find it's no good for my car.
So I guess that's me not buying it the

Post Fri Jul 11, 2014 2:14 pm

The tracts or what there called seem no good.
I had a friend measure them he said there no good can be fixed but dunno if they'll work.

Post Fri Jul 11, 2014 2:55 pm

Just use thin wire to join them between the solder points.

Post Fri Jul 11, 2014 10:51 pm

No good my friend.

Post Fri Jul 11, 2014 11:06 pm

Did you ensure the solder joints were clean and shiny beforehand?

Post Fri Jul 11, 2014 11:15 pm

Yep.
So I threw down in anger and rage.

Post Fri Jul 11, 2014 11:18 pm

Perhaps you need to poke the ends of the wires right the way through the solder joints, and solder on each side of them.

Post Fri Jul 11, 2014 11:22 pm

Just gonna keep it for the oem look.
If I just got a siren bolted it up to the right wires would that work?

Post Sat Jul 12, 2014 12:00 am

Possibly; try applying a small voltage (1.5V, say) to the sounder and listen for a click to verify if it works or not.

Post Sat Jul 12, 2014 12:07 am

I'm talking about this type of siren?
This type not this one.
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/400152883473?nav=SEARCH

Post Sat Jul 12, 2014 12:13 am

Well, first you need to find out if your sounder is a moving coil loudspeaker, or a peizo-ceramic transducer - use a multimeter to measure its resistance; a loudspeaker will only be a few ohms, whereas a piezo element will be a very high, probably unmeasarable resistance.

This photo suggests it's an 8 ohm loudspeaker:

Post Sun Jul 13, 2014 3:53 am

And that means?
Sorry to sound dumb

Post Sun Jul 13, 2014 10:15 am