Brake Pedal Adjustment - any pics?

Post Sun Jun 22, 2014 6:18 pm

So fresh from the success of fitting my new lip spoiler I decided to have a go at the brake pedal adjustment.

My brake light warning on the check panel is now constantly on and my cruise control wasn't working. While I was out today I lifted the brake pedal a little and then tried the cruise again - low and behold it worked.

So I dropped the panel under the steering column and dropped the glove box too (and removed the side panel). I can't work out where the other end of the cross link is. I can see where it goes to the master cylinder.

Does anyone have a pic?

I read in another thread that the cross link destroys the brake switches - is it worth replacing it while it's all in bits?

Thanks in advance as always.

Post Sun Jun 22, 2014 6:33 pm

Other end of the cross link is down by the brake pedal, where there is a similar bell crank arrangement.
It's a cross link in need of adjustment that destroys switches. There's nothing wrong with it, other than it needs winding shorter to lift the pedal.

Post Sun Jun 22, 2014 8:12 pm

Sorry - not been clear - I can see the brake pedal side with the locking nut and the flat spot on the rod.

It's on the glove box side I can't see the end of the rod - can see where the link to the servo comes through but not where the end of the rod is.

It's a picture of that that I'm after.

Post Sun Jun 22, 2014 10:50 pm

Not a pic., but this should help: http://2009.bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/ ... ction_rod/
If you can see the servo push rod, you can see the bell crank, #6, and the pull rod, #11 attaches to that.

Post Mon Jun 23, 2014 7:11 pm

ok - thanks so I'm assuming it's behind this bit but I just couldn't see it at the time.

Will have a go at it Friday.

Post Mon Jun 23, 2014 7:18 pm

Take the glovebox right off. Undo the nuts on the bulkhead, not the cross head screws on the glovebox.
If the studs on the bulkhead break off or show rust marks around their base, you have serious bulkhead corrosion problems.

Post Sat Jun 28, 2014 8:27 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:Take the glovebox right off. Undo the nuts on the bulkhead, not the cross head screws on the glovebox.
If the studs on the bulkhead break off or show rust marks around their base, you have serious bulkhead corrosion problems.

I had visions of a very simple job turning into a complete nightmare.

Luckily no rust issues

So I finally found the other end but there's no locknut.

Is this an issue?

I adjusted the other side and moved the pedal up as high as it would go then moved it back a bit but the check panel light for the brakes doesn't go off.

Is this likely to be the switch at this point?

I tightened up the one side that I have as much as it will go.

When I undid it it wasn't loose so hopefully that was a good sign but should I really get a lock nut on the other end?

Thanks in advance for the advice and also for having patience with me.

Post Tue Jul 01, 2014 7:00 am

On first glance looks like a lot of travel from the screw - are you sure you're brakes aren't permanently on now? If you adjust too much you're "trimming" your brakes in airplane speak to be always on, so there's a balance. If not, ignore me

Assuming the brake is all the way up, switching on the ignition and pressing slightly the brake pedal should give a soft click from the switch near the pedal, and the light should go off. Confirm they do/don't? Do you get the click? Pull the brake up a bit by hand and press down, does it work then?