Red/black wire mod help, now with pics :)

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johnono
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Post Sat Apr 26, 2014 9:42 pm

Hello zoners, i need some help.

Central locking issues,
(Lhd m3 86 2dr)
Drivers door cycles in lock, and activates pass. Door and boot. But not drivers door.
Pass. Lock cannot cycle. Solid
Boot lock can cycle but no el. activity

Have checked, microswitch, wiring as best as possible without mulimeter, cleaned and contact sprayed all connectors including door pillar plug and socket

I havn't yet done
1) checked central locking relay condition
2) red/black wire mod
3) replace solonoids
4) adjust locking barrel connections to pull pins?

pics of red/black wiring

Image
Image
Image

Cheers
Andy.
Last edited by johnono on Sun Apr 27, 2014 8:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
jonny323i
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Post Sat Apr 26, 2014 9:52 pm

I was stumped by this at first.
On the drivers door where the loom returns into the car there is a white block.
Inside behind the speaker you can see all the wires.
There are 2 wires that are the same red/black colour one at the top none at the bottom these need to be cut and joined to each other.
No pics I'm afraid it is in the zone wiki though I think

From the sounds of your problem I'd try a new CL relay first also behind the speaker
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johnono
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Post Sat Apr 26, 2014 9:58 pm

Aha :)
Basicly bridging the 2 pins before the plug in the A-pillar?

I' ll be pulling the central locking relay tomorrow, and seing if there are signs of corrosion,
Would the opposite door / loom cause me problems on this .. I mean, could a fault in the right door give me probls on the left one? I read a post from Sir Moore about the locks wired in parralel.
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Post Sun Apr 27, 2014 6:10 am

I couldn't really say as that's not something I know much more about especially as it's a lhd M3
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daimlerman
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Post Sun Apr 27, 2014 8:52 am

Central locking relay is always in the driver's side cill,behind and below the radio speaker,it's one of the items on E30 that changes location with the steery wheel.

The aim of the red/black wire modification is to eliminate this wire from looping through the door,as the constant live feed is known to cause corrosion in the A pillar socket.
As the OP seems to live in the Sweden area,however,his E30 could easily have heated door locks,so carrying out this mod will remove the feed for those....

Water in the c/l unit is the most likely next cause of c/l playing up,followed by door lock cylinders and latches that need cleaning and lubricating.Door lock cylinders are available as a 'repair kit' to order from the dealer(about £20 in the UK)this gives you a bag of bits to build up a new cylinder to match your existing key.
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jonny323i
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Post Sun Apr 27, 2014 9:02 am

Just to hijack this if fitting a door lock heater what is required.
I have the lock heater but looking on real oem there is a relay kit that goes with it, is that already fitted to the car or do I need that to install the heater
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johnono
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Post Sun Apr 27, 2014 9:12 am

Yep , the car has lock heaters..
Daimlerman, when you say drivers , do you mean left or right side?

.. Edit, sorry just read your post again
daimlerman
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Post Sun Apr 27, 2014 10:03 am

jonny323i wrote:Just to hijack this if fitting a door lock heater what is required.
I have the lock heater but looking on real oem there is a relay kit that goes with it, is that already fitted to the car or do I need that to install the heater
Sorry,cannot help here!

Very,very few UK cars were ordered with lock heating,hence there is no requirement for the live feed into the door.

I guess that the OP probably needs the lock heater if his car is a 'daily',so will have to man up to replacing the A pillar plug/socket if corrosion there is his problem.
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Post Sun Apr 27, 2014 6:13 pm

So i looked today.

The central locking relay was corroded on all pins, blue crust..
The unit inside the box was also pretty nasty, so looks like water ingress.

The interior ligt relay was also rusted on the pins, so that will need changing,

I cleaned ther CLR and could hear it "click" when i plugged in again, but same problem,
The drivers door not actuating in solonoid.
I guess this is fercked.. I cleaned and sprayed all connections yesterday so i think they are ok, but will need the CLR to test .

I also did the Red / black wire mod, and took pictures if anyone wants to add them to the wiki? :)

Image
Image
Image
johnono
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Post Sun Apr 27, 2014 6:14 pm

btw, just want to add, i feking missed this place :)
jonny323i
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Post Sun Apr 27, 2014 6:20 pm

It's the black/red not the red/black lol :mad:
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daimlerman
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Post Sun Apr 27, 2014 6:24 pm

jonny323i wrote:It's the black/red not the red/black lol :mad:
Main colour comes first,followed by the tracer colour.

BMW use a logical colour code;
Red wires are constant live(like the red/black)
Green wires are ign switched(like the green from ign switch to coil)
Earth wires are brown,a brown with a tracer colour is a wire on it's way to earth via something.
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Post Sun Apr 27, 2014 6:26 pm

.. you on a wind up or summin?
:squint:



... :?
jonny323i
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Post Sun Apr 27, 2014 6:38 pm

Yes mate couldn't resist
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jonny323i
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Post Sun Apr 27, 2014 6:39 pm

Sorry lol
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johnono
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Post Sun Apr 27, 2014 6:51 pm

evil barsteward :) :cool:
Rav335uk
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Post Sun Apr 27, 2014 7:06 pm

LOL. :mad:
Image
If you Got "Haters",Then your doing something Right!
CR24v??? Where's it all gone?? LOL
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Brianmoooore
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Post Sun Apr 27, 2014 9:08 pm

johnono wrote:.. you on a wind up or summin?
:squint:



... :?
jonny323i, if you want to play "wind ups", then kindly go play in the pub talk forum, not here in tech. help!
The wire is red/black, and as daimlerman says, the order of the colours is important. The red main colour indicates that this is a permanently live wire, and the tracer indicates that it is fused.

The usual effect of water getting into the locking ECU (blocked sill drain slots?) is to power up the lock motors for longer than their specified duty cycle and to melt them solid.
You say the passenger door lock is 'solid', which could be either burnt out, as above, or dead locked.
Disconnect this motor, electrically and mechanically, for now, and get the rest working with a known good ECU first.
You say the boot lock motor can move, but is unpowered. It's on a separate circuit from the doors, but shares with the fuel filler flap. Does this work?
If you wish to retain door lock heaters, then connect the red/blacks together behind the speaker area, but also leave them connected to the A pillar socket. There may be three red/blacks on your car, since the M3 is based on pre facelift stuff.
jonny323i
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Post Sun Apr 27, 2014 9:12 pm

Ok dad :o:
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johnono
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Post Sun Apr 27, 2014 9:38 pm

:) heya Brian
Cheers for the tips,

The CLR is crusty, but by actuating the small copper solonoids by hand, i could get the pass door and boot to lock / unlock.
So i guess the central lock motor is kaputski.
I cant hear anything from that door at all. .

The pins look to be fine in the door C404 / 405 but i havnt bulb tested yet

And as for you Jonnytoobad..

thats a bad jonny :nono:
jonny323i
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Post Sun Apr 27, 2014 9:43 pm

:tongue:
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Post Mon Apr 28, 2014 8:01 pm

Cheers for sharing the pics, I plan to do this to mine soon and that's made it a whole lot clearer for me now even before I find the wires

:thumb:
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Post Mon Apr 28, 2014 8:33 pm

johnono wrote:btw, just want to add, i feking missed this place :)
Feck me, very long time. I thought you were in Denmark, not Sweden and what happened to the touring?
johnono
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Post Tue Apr 29, 2014 2:12 pm

hello maaate ;)

yeps still Denmark (wanted to be polite so i didnt say anything ;) .. )
Touring gone.. but now im back in an E30 :P