My new 316!

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pacerpete
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Tue Feb 11, 2014 4:52 pm

Have your tappets/timing and fuel mixture been adjusted and set by somebody who knows what they are doing ? Playing with the carburettor is pointless without all the basics being correct. Ask Euan ! :(
mcbonio
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Tue Feb 11, 2014 5:04 pm

Take that sorry excuse for an engine out and drop an m20b25 in and be done with it.!
Speedtouch
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Tue Feb 11, 2014 5:53 pm

Often with Webers, once you've been out for a short drive and pushed the choke home, to restart again, you may need to push the throttle pedal down once and release it - this squirts a bit of fuel into the intake manifold.

In my experience, Webers do tend to take quite alot of adjusting to to find out the optimum ways of getting them to operate properly.

Oh, the fun and games I had with my Fiat twin cam's Weber 34ADF - SU HIF44 FTW! :)
///M aurice
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
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Junglistjed
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Tue Feb 11, 2014 8:34 pm

Thanks for the advice mate, should i push the pedal down whilst turning the key or before? im pretty sure i pushed the pedal down the first time it happened which got it started!
Junglistjed
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Tue Feb 11, 2014 8:36 pm

pacerpete wrote:Have your tappets/timing and fuel mixture been adjusted and set by somebody who knows what they are doing ? Playing with the carburettor is pointless without all the basics being correct. Ask Euan ! :(
Yeah the old guy who fitted the carb knows what he is doing, he put it on the rolling road to ensure it was all running as it should. Think im just having rotten luck, at least it works? haha
Speedtouch
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Tue Feb 11, 2014 10:18 pm

Yes, you just prod the pedal once down to the floor then release it, prior to turning the ignition key.

This may or may not be required, depending on the conditions - you'll have to experiment...
///M aurice
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
Junglistjed
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Wed Feb 12, 2014 3:35 pm

The car was fine when i drove it to work this morning in terms of the starting problem, maybe its just picky! haha. A weird problem i encountered though was the engine constantly being revved (asif the pedal was slightly stuck) when i shut the engine down i continued to rattle for a while and made a strange noise when it finally stopped? not had this before so have no idea why its doing it!
Speedtouch
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Wed Feb 12, 2014 3:49 pm

Sounds worrying - I'd be investigating PDQ! :eek: Check the obvious first - do you have sufficient engine oil, and check the engine mounts are OK (rock the engine, or observe it running to check).

An over-high idle is often caused by either an over-tightened throttle cable (there should be a slight bit of slack in it at the carb end with the throttle released) or a sticky linkage to the throttle - try applying a bit of 3-in-1 oil or similar, and squirt some WD40 or similar aerosol lubricant up inside the throttle cable.
///M aurice
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
Junglistjed
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Wed Feb 12, 2014 5:50 pm

Well the idling actually got higher, so does that make an overly tight throttle cable more likely? when i first started the car it was fine, the high-idle only started to occur after a bit of driving so the licking sticking in the same position seems likely?
pacerpete
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Wed Feb 12, 2014 6:10 pm

Thank god for motronic :)
Junglistjed
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Wed Feb 12, 2014 6:13 pm

:(
Speedtouch
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Wed Feb 12, 2014 6:20 pm

Perhaps the carb hasn't been properly set up for a warmed-up idle?

As I said, check that there's a bit of slack in the throttle cable when the accelerator pedal is released, and if there is none, slacken the throttle lever fixing screw and move the cable back a couple of mm or so to provide a bit of slack.
///M aurice
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
pacerpete
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Wed Feb 12, 2014 6:38 pm

This is why , unless you are clever and or have a mile wide masochistic streak, 316s are only suitable as scrap or as a recipient for an engine transplant .

I wonder how Euan is getting on with his bridge dodger ? :)
Junglistjed
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Sat Apr 12, 2014 4:03 pm

Alright lads, i haven't been driving the e30 much lately but there has been a persistant oil leak/spew from the carb.. I had a lad test drive it today and he said there is way too much pressure and the oil is coming from an outlet on the engine that the air filter connects to?

He said it was a pretty big problem so just looking at what people think, how much it would cost to get it fixed etc

cheers
Speedtouch
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Sat Apr 12, 2014 4:10 pm

Quite often, this is a sign of chronic bore wear, but you may be lucky and it may be just a blocked crankcase ventilation system, so check all the various hoses for blockages/splits.
///M aurice
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
Junglistjed
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Sat Apr 12, 2014 4:17 pm

Hello mate, any pipes i should be looking at? the air filter is off and i made sure the majority of the oil was cleaned. i then took it for a 2 minute spin to determine where how much oil was leaking and were is was, it ended up being on the passenger side of the car with some on the fuse box cover etc.. i also noticed a few weeks ago when trying to start the car that a liquid spews out of the top of the carb if that means anything!
Speedtouch
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Sat Apr 12, 2014 4:23 pm

Start with the hose that leads down from the air filter housing to the engine block (or inlet manifold).

Check all hoses leading into the engine block.
///M aurice
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
Junglistjed
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Sat Apr 12, 2014 4:26 pm

pretty sure it was the one in the picture on the top left of the engine block that was spewing the oil :/

Image
pacerpete
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Sat Apr 12, 2014 4:29 pm

Souns like it's fooooked. The only 'breather' pipe is the one coming off the rocker cover that is supposed to connect to the airbox. Running / driving with it incorrectly tuned has probably washed the bores and foooked them, hence the back pressure . What happens if you pull the dipstick out when it is running ?
Junglistjed
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Sat Apr 12, 2014 4:33 pm

Thats a pain in the ass! how much does a 316 sell for without an engine? haha, what should happen mate? i haven't done that yet but ill do it later when im home!
pacerpete
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Sat Apr 12, 2014 5:08 pm

Nothing should happen with the dipstick removed. If there is positive pressure which increases as the engine is revved, that confirms that the bores / rings are goosed and compression is leaking into the crankcase, hence the 'blow by' and crud being blown out :(
Junglistjed
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Sat Apr 12, 2014 5:15 pm

New engine is needed then, problem is im getting rid of the car so don't want to spend tonnes on an engine swap :( any idea how much the m10 engine will cost me? and how much it will cost me to get it fitted? also is it just the engine i need and not the gearbox etc?

never had a serious engine problem before so this is new to me mate.
pacerpete
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Sat Apr 12, 2014 5:35 pm

Just advertise it as it is stating the faults. To source and fit a good engine will cost as much as the car is worth :( Whoever buys it is probably going to throw the engine in a skip so do not waste your time and money.

On a positive note, at least it is not a quattroporte :)
Speedtouch
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Sat Apr 12, 2014 10:25 pm

I would run a compression test first before condemning the engine; you can buy a Gunsons compression gauge for around £25 from Halfords, or for £20 from Amazon:

///M aurice
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
Junglistjed
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Mon Apr 14, 2014 1:53 pm



is that all i need mate, and how do i use it? never done something like this before but its all a learning curve! thanks
Speedtouch
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Mon Apr 14, 2014 2:05 pm

Yes. You unscrew all the spark plugs, and jam the throttle wide open.

Screw the gauge into each spark plug hole in turn, and crank the engine over until you get a steady reading on the gauge. Take a note of the reading, and repeat for each of the other cylinders.

All should read roughly equal pressures of at least 150psi.

Any less indicates either bore wear or valves not sealing properly.
///M aurice
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
Junglistjed
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Mon Apr 21, 2014 8:23 pm

Any ideas on a price i should be asking for? given that the breaking engine has had a weber carb fitted and the shell is in good condition?
pacerpete
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Mon Apr 21, 2014 8:27 pm

Junglistjed wrote:Any ideas on a price i should be asking for? given that the breaking engine has had a weber carb fitted and the shell is in good condition?

Put it on Ebay 99p start and see what happens. Lots of decent pics and a good description should send it down the road. I assume it is taxed and tested and still drivable ?
TPS
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Mon Apr 21, 2014 8:44 pm

As Pete says, Ebay 99p, I've had the most success selling cars that way, I'd never sell a car without T&T, a buyer whats to drive it, not have the hassle of trailering it away.
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Junglistjed
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Mon Apr 21, 2014 9:11 pm

Ofcourse, 6 months tax and 6 months MOT, was also serviced 6 months ago so still drives perfectly :) ill put the auction on and see what happens! cheers
Speedtouch
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Mon Apr 21, 2014 10:05 pm

I wouldn't be assuming that the engine is 'breaking', until you've at least carried out a compression test. How many miles has it done?
///M aurice
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
Junglistjed
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Tue Apr 22, 2014 1:16 am

112,500 mate
Speedtouch
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Tue Apr 22, 2014 10:05 am

Getting on a bit, but the M10 is a tough engine, so the bore wear may not be as bad as you think.

Do you get any blue smoke out of the exhaust? That's a common sign of bore/valve guide wear as oil is being burnt off.
///M aurice
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
pacerpete
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Tue Apr 22, 2014 10:47 am

Speedtouch wrote:Getting on a bit, but the M10 is a tough engine, so the bore wear may not be as bad as you think.

Do you get any blue smoke out of the exhaust? That's a common sign of bore/valve guide wear as oil is being burnt off.


Its breathing like a foook1ng steam train Maurice. No complicated breather systems on a M10 , its foooked !
Speedtouch
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Tue Apr 22, 2014 12:01 pm

Judging by the overall good condition of the car, and the clean state of the engine bay, I wouldn't be so sure...
///M aurice
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
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