Bosh Tunning Services??? M42? Help

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jon-m42
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Wed Mar 19, 2014 1:44 pm

Hi All,

As you all or most of you all are already aware of I am suffering from over fuelling problems which if I must admit over the course has improved however it is still fairly evedent the poor girl needs a tune of some sort.

I have changed all:

-Vacuum pipe
-All gaskets
-Temp sensor
-Ecu
-injectors
-fuel pressure is ok
-afm's

I am sure I have done more just cant think of it at the moment. Having visited a few local garages who honestly were a waste of time and money did all mention that I needed a Bosch tune.

Now my question to you all is that what is a Bosch tune?

I had though a tune would have just been puttiing the ole stick in the exhaust and adjusting the co2 by the screw in the air flow meter and that is that. OR am i missing something?

Have any of you had experience with a Bosh Tune ?

Where do find a garage who is Bosch certified tuning ?

Thanks all.
jon
Last edited by jon-m42 on Mon Apr 07, 2014 10:34 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Brianmoooore
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Wed Mar 19, 2014 1:55 pm

Sounds like total bull to me. You can't tune a 'modern' engine like this like you did the old school stuff by tweaking the ignition timing by rotating the distributor, tweaking the advance bob weights and springs, and rejetting and balancing carbs. All done by one little 'chip' in an M42, so if it isn't running right, then it has one or more faults.
As for the AFM pot, that was set at the factory and shouldn't need moving. If the CO (not CO2 - completely different gas) is wrong, then again, that indicates a fault.
Many of the engine sensors are made by Bosch, so I suppose it's possible that they mean somewhere that can individually subject these sensors to their full range of operating conditions and see if they are within spec., but this I would define as fault finding, not tuning.
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jon-m42
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Wed Mar 19, 2014 2:54 pm

Hi Brian,

Thanks for the input. Very helpful and clear.

Can you recommend any good fault finders in and around the London area?

It clearly seems as if I have done all I can personally to resolve this with everybody help here but now I need that one individual who knows exactly what they are on about to give this a go and get my co levels back to 300 from 2500+.

I fill up more than i drive the damm thing. Having her warm up in the cold mornings is causing trouble with my local labours as the smell from the exhaust is barbaric.


Help is for sure needed ...

:o:
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Wed Mar 19, 2014 3:06 pm

Kryptonite 'tune' FTW ! :)
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jon-m42
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Wed Mar 19, 2014 3:26 pm

Yes Pete I am under the impression not many have the crypton tuning/fault finding gear.

I suppose I need to go ahead and check for the following:

Battery. Alternator. Ignition coil. Distributor. Ignition Amplifier. Distributor cap. Rotor arm. HT leads. Spark plugs. Cylinder condition / power balance.

This can only be done by the Crypton computer I think?

Are there any garages here in London that have this computer to fault find and put right this old girl?

Thanks
Jon
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Wed Mar 19, 2014 6:59 pm

If it's over fuelling as bad as that, then the chances are you are missing something obvious. These are very simple engine management systems by today's standards, with only a handful of sensors providing data to the ECU.

"Battery. Alternator. Ignition coil. Distributor. Ignition Amplifier. Distributor cap. Rotor arm. HT leads. Spark plugs. Cylinder condition / power balance." ??? I thought this was an M42. You'll struggle to find four of those on one of these.
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Wed Mar 19, 2014 7:09 pm

Jon, does your 318iS have a cat?

If it does, unplug the O2 sensor and recheck your fueling and report back.
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Wed Mar 19, 2014 9:07 pm

Was the car ok when you first got it and then developed this fault or has it never run properly?
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jon-m42
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Thu Mar 20, 2014 10:57 am

Brianmoooore wrote:If it's over fuelling as bad as that, then the chances are you are missing something obvious. These are very simple engine management systems by today's standards, with only a handful of sensors providing data to the ECU.

"Battery. Alternator. Ignition coil. Distributor. Ignition Amplifier. Distributor cap. Rotor arm. HT leads. Spark plugs. Cylinder condition / power balance." ??? I thought this was an M42. You'll struggle to find four of those on one of these.
This is exactly what I thought but it seems whatever it is so simple people and myself are missing.

Bas325i - The car has no cat and also I have changed the blue temp sensor replaced brand new from bmw.

DiffiS - Car was running properly and has slowly developed over time. After changing most things that I can do myself things have improved like engine response and power but weirdly enough at idle.
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jon-m42
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Fri Mar 21, 2014 9:36 pm

Guys

I think I might have found the man for the job anybody know him ?

http://www.esatclear.ie/~bpurcell/318isdriving.html

His name is Brendan Purcell.

Had a skim through his website seems very well educated with the bmw e30's :mad:
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jon-m42
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Sun Apr 06, 2014 10:08 pm

Very Bad news today...

Yesterday I drove many short start and stop journeys in and around town. Car seemed ok no signs of over heating or any other negative signs However I did notice a very large increase of strong un burnt fuel from the rear. Much more than I have ever noticed before.

So after a days full of short journeys I came home gave it a rest.

This morning I thought id take the car on the m25 just to give it a little clear run. I started the car this morning and after about 2 minutes the smell was very bad in fact the worst that it had ever smelt to date and then i gave her a little rev up to 2k rpm held it there and I notice a huge puff of white smoke fairly like a old steam engine and or a house chimney.

I walked to the rear and smelt very strong fuel. I did try to smell oil but I am 100% it was very strong fuel smell. I switched my car off called out for a local mobile mechanic. He carried out the following checks:

-cylinder compression test results all 4 pots were showing above 160psi
-plugged it into his little laptop and found no faults on ecu.
-checked all vacuum pipes.

I mentioned I have done most things to try resolve the over fueling problems however i have been unsuccessful in my attempts.

He was rather a little lost like myself after he had carried out this checks.

On the pluss side he did nto charge me a penny which was good of him.

Anybody could you please guide me from here as I now will not be driving the car until this is sorted. Not wanting to cause any more damage.

Could it be any of the following things:

-Fuel pressure regulator
-injectors
-brown sensor which sits next to the blue temp sensor

Please do help.

Thank you in advanced. :?
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jon-m42
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Tue Apr 08, 2014 4:15 pm

anybody
bss325i
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Tue Apr 08, 2014 5:29 pm

Brown temp sensor is just for the gauge so will have no effect on fueling, the blue one on the other hand is for the DME so this can cause fueling issues but you say you have changed this. Have you checked the resistance of it when hot and cold?

You may have posted this but what CO and HC readings are you getting?
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jon-m42
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Thu Apr 10, 2014 1:41 pm

Hi Bas325i,

I did post a little while ago the link to the post is :

http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... highlight=

this shows all my ficures. My ppm vol HC was at the time 2380 which is dangerously high.

:x
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Stubbsy5
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Thu Apr 10, 2014 2:11 pm

Hi

I dont know weather you have sorted this out yet.

Have you checked that your fuel pressure regulator is working correctly? If not and it is stuck shut the pressure from the pump will be pushed through the injectors, and in turn provide a very rich mixture?

Hope you find it soon

Chris
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jon-m42
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Thu Apr 10, 2014 4:45 pm

Stubbsy5 wrote:Hi

I dont know weather you have sorted this out yet.

Have you checked that your fuel pressure regulator is working correctly? If not and it is stuck shut the pressure from the pump will be pushed through the injectors, and in turn provide a very rich mixture?

Hope you find it soon

Chris
Hi Buddy,

The only way I have checked for the fuel pressure regulator is a small minor test which was after a long drive take out the vacuum pipe from the throttle body which then connects to the under side of the fpr and then suck on it.. quiet literally and if petrol came through this then would be a clear and bad sign but to be honest nothing came through at all.

So im under the impression that it is ok however some proper testing and fault finding needs to be done. The hardest bit of it all is finding somebody who knows their way around the older motors as I am no mechanic and only can try and do what I have been told.

I hardly know how to use a multi meter. well im sure i could use it to fault find and test if I have clear instructions.

Sadly still trying to resolve this problem.

Thanks
Jon
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Brianmoooore
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Thu Apr 10, 2014 9:12 pm

You can buy a cheap fuel pressure meter via ebay for £10 or so, that's good enough for your purpose. You'll need a few inches of extra fuel hose to connect it up.
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Fri Apr 11, 2014 10:54 am

It could also be one or two stuck fuel injectors if you say it stinks that bad of fuel. Check that they are clicking with the help of a long screwdriver placed on the body of the injector and the other end near your ear. Alternatively you could use a piece of tubing instead of the screwdriver as suggested by brian a couple of times.
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Mon Apr 14, 2014 1:01 pm

If the car smells fuelly then it could be a too lean mixture causing poor combustion and pushing un-burnt fuel through the system and out the tailpipe, Don't assume it's overly rich because of the smell .

Hydrocarbon count tells ya more than CO readings IMHO, Exhaust Gas temp a good guide too.

clean all the electrical connections in the engine bay, check and clean the engine earth strap too, you'll be surprised what gremlins that simple task can fix.
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Mon Apr 14, 2014 7:22 pm

Ant wrote:If the car smells fuelly then it could be a too lean mixture causing poor combustion and pushing un-burnt fuel through the system and out the tailpipe, Don't assume it's overly rich because of the smell .

Hydrocarbon count tells ya more than CO readings IMHO, Exhaust Gas temp a good guide too.

clean all the electrical connections in the engine bay, check and clean the engine earth strap too, you'll be surprised what gremlins that simple task can fix.
Wow where have you been!

Good tips from the man, also try cleaning your ICV that might stop some of the white smoke. Have you modified it in any way? TB heater delete, COP etc?
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Tue Apr 15, 2014 9:56 am

Yes, Ant could be right i don't deny it, but as i understand from the owner the car stinks of fuel when running, seeing white smoke out the tailpipe, and at operating temperature that could be raw fuel exiting or steam from a head gasket failure. I don't think if it was a lean mixture would stink that bad, but i could be wrong i haven't seen the car so is just an assumption.
I think the best way would be to get all the plugs out after a run at operating temp and look at them. If they are clean and whiteish it would be running lean, if they are soaked with fuel it could be a injector that's not doing it's job properly or the ignition( as long as compression is good and even) and if the plugs are black sooty looking, ignition is good but again fuel is not metered properly. This is my opinion and correct me if i'm wrong.
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Tue Apr 15, 2014 11:18 am

Hi Jon,

Having suffered similar problems as you in the past before I understand what a pain this can be.

After reading your post I think most likely your problem is being caused by a sticky fuel injector. It seems like you have changed and tested all basic things:

-Vacuum Pipes i.e. all pipes which connect to and from the throttle body and afm all around that area
-Gaskets i.e. Intake manifold upper and lower, rocker cover, throttle body
-Temp sensor the blue one which sits closest to the rad
-Compression tested all cylinders which showed all 4 above 160psi

I think you may just have a injector or 2 which is failing to operate correctly. When a fuel injector sticks open it constantly sprays fuel into the combustion chamber even when there is no spark being supplied to that cylinder. Therefore all that fuel gets expelled from the combustion chamber through the exhaust.

The white coloured smoke is the raw fuel burning in the exhaust pipe. Normally white smoke is caused by a blown head gasket but it seems that's ok in your case as you are getting good compression from all cylinders.

Book in with a good enough garage and get the following things tested:

-Fuel pressure
-Check injectors

I recommend to not drive the car and do get it checked with a good enough mechanic who knows his way around electrical and mechanical issues.

Hope this helps fella.

J
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BenHar
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Tue Apr 15, 2014 12:36 pm

You may be able to free the injectors by tapping their metal bodies.

Ben
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Tue Apr 15, 2014 1:08 pm

BenHar wrote:You may be able to free the injectors by tapping their metal bodies.

Ben
+1 but be carefull
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jon-m42
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Tue Apr 15, 2014 1:21 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:You can buy a cheap fuel pressure meter via ebay for £10 or so, that's good enough for your purpose. You'll need a few inches of extra fuel hose to connect it up.
Hi Brian,

I have come to a stage where I just can not be bothered spending money on tools and never getting to the bottom of it. I would much rather have somebody look at it fix it and be done with it.

I wonder where all the zoners in the London area take their old turd when they need help and or are going round in circles stomping mad around the issues like me.
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jon-m42
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Tue Apr 15, 2014 1:25 pm

Tommek, Ant and no1_jazz

Thank you all for the input you all make life that little bit easier.

Question how do I Free the injector?

Thanks
Jon :?
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BenHar
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Tue Apr 15, 2014 1:39 pm

BenHar wrote:You may be able to free the injectors by tapping their metal bodies.

Ben
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Tue Apr 15, 2014 2:13 pm

Sol and Rob in Tottenham 020 8365 9379

They are the E30 experts and have a warehouse full of spares so there is no waiting around for parts.

They do most repairs in half a day or less.
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Sol is a legend in E30 circles :thumb: from me !
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jon-m42
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Tue Apr 15, 2014 3:31 pm

Just gave them a call seems as if they do nto have any M42 injectors at all. The guy mentioned that they mainly work on 325i's and also stock most body parts and electrical goods but in this case there are no injectors available. :mad:
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fender182
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Tue Apr 15, 2014 3:41 pm

I've got some injectors from my old M42 in the garage. i won't be using them if you want them. I'm in west london.
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BenHar
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Tue Apr 15, 2014 3:57 pm

jon-m42 wrote:but in this case there are no injectors available. :mad:
I thought you said in the OP that you have changed the injectors already?

Were they new injectors you put in?

Ben
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jon-m42
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Tue Apr 15, 2014 4:02 pm

Just called them again for some exhaust mounts and guess what they said they have found some laying around in their box box full of injectors. I shall be meeting them later today to pick them up with a friend.

Thanks fender182

Are they easy or hard to install?

Thanks for the
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jon-m42
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Tue Apr 15, 2014 4:05 pm

BenHar wrote:
jon-m42 wrote:but in this case there are no injectors available. :mad:
I thought you said in the OP that you have changed the injectors already?

Were they new injectors you put in?

Ben
Sorry what I meant was that when I had a garage look over the car a long while back they did mention at that time the injectors were all ok.

What makes me think its the injectors is what jazz said about the white smoke and to be quite frank with you it is also hunting on acceleration it feels as if it is misfiring some what.
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BenHar
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Tue Apr 15, 2014 4:13 pm

In that case take them out and send them to Injectortune to be refurbished.

Ben
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