Making 325i touring road worthy again.

[nomi]

Hi

I have a 325i e30 touring that's been parked up for 5 years.

The car has

325i engine
Manual sports close ratio
LSD


The car was MOT'D then parked outdoors

It was started every 6 months and drive round the block.

After 3 years it started missfiring when started and really rough ideal.

I will be buying and installing all new parts.

Bilsten sports suspension with springs
Full powerflex kit
Drilled grooved discs
Fast road pads
Wishbones
Track rod ends
Drop links
Clutch & flywheel
Braided brake hoses
Top mounts
Rear top mounts (z3m upgrade)
Wheel bearings
Fan belts
Timing kit
Water pump
Thermostat
Spark plugs
Battery
All filters (fuel, oil, air)
Distributer cap

Have I missed anything out?

Also should I change gearbox & lsd oils?
Replace brake callipers?
Replace engine hoses (samco)?
Replace engine pulleys?

Also what other items engine items need changing?

All help really appreciated

Thank you

[pacerpete]

The first thing you need to do BEFORE spending any money is to have a really THOROUGH poke around all the known E30 crusty spots . Most are now scrap and five years sitting outside will not have done it any favours.

[Grrrmachine]

Follow pete's advice and don't spend a penny on parts until you've done a thorough autopsy. If you're not sure, take a seat and check out the resto thread in my sig of what can lurk under a reasonable-looking Touring.

As for your parts list, ditch the powerflex kit (will have an adverse affect on a touring) and don't bother with drilled grooved discs either - normal OEM ones are fine. Use E46 cab rear top mounts, but factor in all the parts for the shifter including the seal in the gear box, and possibly a z3 short shifter. If you're doing the rear beam bushes (you should) then be prepared to replace all the rear brake pipes too. Don't replace the calipers, but get decent rebuild kits. Not sure what you mean by a "timing kit", but get the rocker cover gasket and 4x "D" seals for the head. Get some 8x13mm rubber hose from BMW and replace the fuel pipes in the engine bay.

You don't need to replace anything engine-wise like the pulleys, but it's a wise idea to pull the injectors and send them off to Injectortune.

[nomi]

Thanks for the advice

Will get the car put on a 4 poster ramp and have a full inspection

At the moment the only external signs of rust corrosion is the sunroof and small bubbles on the tailgate.

[Grrrmachine]

Be absolutely sure that the rust is on the sunroof panel ONLY, and hasn't spread to the actual roof skin. If it has, you might as well scrap the car, considering the cost of reskinning a touring roof.

Tailgate is a very common rot spot. For the other rust areas, check the Wiki:

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Rust

[jimmyoldskool]

As above, if it's the sunroof panel itself then you might be ok, however they normally rot from the inside out, so be prepared for rot in the sunroof tray and roof itself.....if that's the case then it's frag time or the world's first touring speedster!!!!