Well have Bosch ECU Part Number 0 260 200 005 - that has no output on pins 14 & 15 under load of 6.5 Amp Actuator motor (with no actuator load connected the missing voltage immediately reappears) everything else is working - the car starts runs and drives - suspect that resistor as strange varying readings - measured it in circuit initially - it was wavering up and down so de-soldered it - now it seems to read fine out of circuit - measured the PCB where it would normally be connected - no wavering reading - put it back now the reading doesn't waver but there is a hot electronics smell coming from that area (but there are also three heat sink mounted power transistor style devices + two bigger than normal PCB mounted diodes) so am looking at suspects around there that could cause a hot electronics smell in that area.
Also have been studying the PCB layout & that resistor supplies power to the actuator from a heavy power in (pin 18 ) to the ECU terminal (anybody happen to have a schematic or flowchart for this ECU? It would help a lot) so suspect that it is something in that area - have found Russians with similar problem at http://www.e30club.ru/forum/index.php?topic=106289.0 (using Chrome browser with translation plug-in to browser - surprisingly good).
But nothing is burnt out on mine - will also have to go and check on car if pin 14 positive is dead - hopefully will still be common via the ECU with the battery - the resistor powers pin 14 from pin 18 which is a heavy power in to the ECU.
OR is the negative pin 15 dead?
We shall have to see which one is the switched output controlling the actuator.
Suspect the Russians fried their ECU by finding positive (14) dead & then supplying instead direct from the battery which probably means no current regulation - note the Russians show two or three different ECUs in their pictures.
Have just fitted three new electrolytic capacitors - ironically it seems to have solved a problem noticed while trying to fix the pins 14&15 issue that the engine electrics relay controlled by the ECU didn't turn off after the ignition was turned off - also idle quality (which was never the issue) has dramatically improved with the new Capacitors and the car is much easier to start even with the fault - but still the main fundamental fault persists.
Also the new capacitors had other effects - made the actuator slowly move for about four seconds then it stopped and the actuator also twitches now most times you turn on the ignition - before it only did it if battery reconnected then ignition on but one time only then dead until battery off & on again - now several ignition switch ons in a row while leaving the battery connected makes it twitch each time - but less and less with each successive key on until it stops if you see what I mean.
Here are some photographs and diagrams.......
Capacitors & resistor already removed:-
Other side:-
Untouched as opened:-
