Central Locking Control Unit 1986 e30 325i baur cabrio

[kam-325i]

Any ideas on getting around this one, bearing in mind the alarm works fine regarding what its suppose to do.

kam... You said you've encountered this set up a couple of times before, was that related to a similar central locking problem?

Yes, Exactly the same, the central locking would become intermittent on arm/dis-arm, then die altogether. It was all down to however installed the alarm not bothering to use the CL module. On my E30, I have a simple Sparkrite SR90 alarm system, BUT I have used the proper CL module for it.

The way to get around it is to use a proper central locking module linked up to the alarm.

Ill go and have a mooch on ebay to see if I can find a decent one for you.

[Avinit4]

On mine everything has been removed including wiring for CLCU, micro switches etc.
The pics on this thread contain all of the wiring and conecting plugs.


I have a spare 1986 2 door e30 CLCU, is this what your refering to somehow re using it?

[Avinit4]

Thanks btw

[Brianmoooore]

The module kam-325i is referring to is essentially a couple of relays. The outputs from the alarm module are connected to the coils of the relays, and the change over relay contacts are used to power the lock motors. The relay contacts are arranged so that both wires from the lock motors are normally earthed, but the appropriate one is momentarily switched to 12 volts + when requested to do so by the alarm module.
Your spare E30 module could be wired to do this easily enough, but would only use a few of its functions.

[Avinit4]

Thats sounds do-able as I don't need the other functions.
I have the white connection plug with wires from it.
Can it be done using relivent wires on connection plug or will it involve taking it apart?

Will I have to put it in original place fixed behind the speaker or will the sudden impact unlocking doors be one of the functions not used (which suits me).

Just incase its useful the link below shows inside the CLCU

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr30 ... c83e21.jpg

[Brianmoooore]

You will need to connect red/black (12 volts permanent live), brown (earth), white, blue, and the two lock/unlock wires from your alarm. Lock request goes to yellow/blue or green/black, and unlock request to green/blue or green purple. These need to be momentarily earthed by the alarm, not 12 volts +.
If you want the crash sensor, it needs to be properly mounted and the green connected to ignition live.
Don't connect the black, or you risk dead locking a door with no way of un dead locking it.
Bare in mind that there still remains a fault with your set up that hasn't been sorted.

[Avinit4]

Sorry but your last sentence has confused me because I thought the purpose of doing this was to remedy the problem of actuators not working due to insufficient pulse from the alarm?

If i'm understanding correctly your saying I will still have same problem after adding control unit yes?

[Brianmoooore]

It once worked, then it stopped working = something broke.

[Avinit4]

I thought we established the issue stated in above message namely

Is it possible that the pulse sent from alarm has been somehow reduced in power or volts so not enough to operate actuator? Thats only way I can explain why works direct from battery but not from alarm pulse?

You replied with...... 'It's not only possible, but extremely probable.'

So I thought fitting CLCU as locking module was to overcome the insufficient alarm pulse to fix problem...Hense fixing the fault my set up so nothing actually broken. Yes no?

[Brianmoooore]

The pulse has reduced in strength because whatever produces in inside the alarm module has been damaged. It may or may not still produce a pulse strong enough to power the inputs to an interface, but there's no guarantee that it will always continue to do so. Something that's half dead usually soon becomes totally dead.
Open up the alarm module if that's possible, and look for damage.

[Avinit4]

To clarify

My live red/black wire that goes to drivers door A pillar connects to nothing so not currently in use.

Currently power comes from Red wire that connects to the 2 black wires (one to each door) shown in picture earlier in this thread and below

So I need to completely remove the permanent live Red wire and re-join the black wires together?

Then take the permanent live red/black going to A pillar and connect it to red/black wire on CLCU.

Then connect the White & Blue wires from actuators too White & Blue wires on CLCU

The yell/orange and yell/black wires in picture I think are alarm request to lock and unlock wires ”“ no idea which is which but don’t think it matters? So will attach yell/orange too Grn/Black on CLCU ”¦. And”¦..yell/Black too Grn/Purple on CLCU.

I think these will be momentarily earth’d already via the Brown and white wires from the alarm connected to the Purple and Brown wires as shown in pic below

If I use Crash sensor I will secure CLCU in proper location and attach green to ignition live.

I hope by replacing seized passengers actuator and drivers actuator (because spare in better condition) will eliminate part if not all of original fault.

Have shown on picture below how ive interpreted/applied what you said so shows what I think I need to do???? If I’m way off then its beyond me! But thanks for trying to help anyway ïaŠ


http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr30 ... 2586cd.jpg

[Avinit4]

If all writing above looks to heavy to read then just click on link at bottom to see actual pic what I think youve said I need to do..... The pic is much easier to understand than the writing above!
I could do with knowing if Ive interpreted your instructions correctly before actually doing it! cheers

[BenHar]

Ben

[Avinit4]

Thanks Benhar much appreciated, I'm guessing the other fellas are to busy today to have a look, such is life..Thanks again for that

[kam-325i]

Some of us do work on a Saturday you know !!!

[Avinit4]

Thats no excuse is it, no doubt you'l want to have some pleasure as well next...tut tut !!... Joking.. I guessed right then...... No worrys Brian, I really do understand how precious time is and I appreciate everything youve done & just like everything in life: It takes as long as it takes... Altho I did get para that what I had writen a load complex crap no-one read to the end ..... so never found out there was link to picture at end.... whch is why I wrote whatever above...blah blah
Enjoy your Sunday m8

[Avinit4]

Opps yes have got habit of writing mate with an m and number 8

[kam-325i]

no problems dude....its nice to be useful

[Brianmoooore]

All the colours I've referred to are the BMW OE colours on the genuine BMW bits. I.e. The blue on the locking ECU connects to the blues on the lock motors. Whatever colour you use on the bit in between isn't relevant. The power feed (red/black) can come from the red/black on the spare (interior light timer) plug, if you are mounting the ECU where it should be, but it'll work with any fused 12v permanent supply, such as the red/yellow at the accessories socket.

[Avinit4]

OK thanks

[Avinit4]

I done exactly what I've shown in above pic which ignores colour of wires in between the original BMW actuators with conection plug & wires.
Result...... Zero power getting to actuators: No perminant live and no alarm impulse.
SO
I rejoined the permanent live to the actuators Black wire: result Black wire at actuators now live but nothing else: No alarm pulse at all?
TBH it feels like a backward step because before this at least there was power at actuators and boh alarm arm and unarm pulses reached the actuators whereas now they don't? Fastly approaching point of wishing I'd scrapped the car 14 months ago!!

[Brianmoooore]

There should not be any permanent live at the actuators.
Put the wiring back like we said, except for joining the the lock request and unlock request wires to the alarm module.
Momentarily earthing these wires should set the locks or unlock them respectively.

[Avinit4]

I understand removing the live feed from the black actuator wire so wiring back to what you said.
I inderstand disconecting the lock request and unlock request from the alarm module.

I dont understand where the lock request and unlock request now go or how to momentarily earth them?

[Brianmoooore]

Don't connect the ECU lock and unlock request wires to anything until you've got that part of the circuit working. Earthing means touch them against bare metal of the bodywork, the battery negative, or any OE plain brown wire.

[Avinit4]

So I need to earth the Green/black and Green/purple from the CLCU and leave the 2 lock and unlock request wires from alarm connected to nothing for the moment at least.

[kam-325i]

So I need to earth the Green/black and Green/purple from the CLCU and leave the 2 lock and unlock request wires from alarm connected to nothing for the moment at least.

Yes, this is just to confirm that this part of the system is working correctly.

[Avinit4]

So I need to earth the Green/black and Green/purple from the CLCU and leave the 2 lock and unlock request wires from alarm connected to nothing for the moment at least.

Yes, this is just to confirm that this part of the system is working correctly.

Im hoping to do today. What should happen to confirm this part of the system is working corectly?

[Brianmoooore]

The car should lock and unlock as you momentarily earth the wires to the locking ECU. Do it with the driver's door shut.

[Avinit4]

OK thanks

[Avinit4]

The unlock and lock request are making it to the actuator (drivers), which works when not fitted on car.
But when actuator fitted to car it doesn't have enough strength to lock or unlock, if I help it along by pulling or pushing the bit that goes up and down by window then works. I can feel actuator pushing or pulling, its just the initial starting it off it cant do.
TBH it feels like its something to do with how actuator is fitted on car that stops it but I havent changed or altered anything?
Anyway the upshot is the electrical part of system apears to be working just not strong enough to work actuator when fitted to car?:?

[Avinit4]

In addition to the above.

Originally we thought the alarm pulse had some how reduced in power so no longer enough to work the actuator.
However, if i'm understanding whats happening now correctly then the alarm lock/unlock pulse isn't being used but the problem of actuator not locking or unlocking when receiving the request remains the same meaning the alarm pulse was not the problem.
I'm thinkin problem could be linked to the mechanism that joins actuator to lock and bolts to inner door skin (with white plastic cover)?
Although it doesn't look like it could go wrong and prevent actuator from working as it should.
So I suppose my question is....... Can this mechanism malfunction ad prevent actuator from working?

[Brianmoooore]

Yes, the mechanism can go wrong, but you'd feel it when locking by the key or the internal button as well.
Are your wires to the lock motors of adequate thickness? The same gauge (or bigger) than the BMW OE?
Does this happen with both motors?
If so, try unplugging one.
Do you have the driver's door shut? (Or at least the catch in the shut position).
Are you getting full power at the red/black and brown on the lock ECU when it operates?

[Avinit4]

Yes, the mechanism can go wrong, but you'd feel it when locking by the key or the internal button as well.
Are your wires to the lock motors of adequate thickness? The same gauge (or bigger) than the BMW OE?
Does this happen with both motors?
If so, try unplugging one.
Do you have the driver's door shut? (Or at least the catch in the shut position).
Are you getting full power at the red/black and brown on the lock ECU when it operates?

There has been times recently when I needed to use the key and it felt like was stuck so needed to jiggle it and apply more pressure than should have to (being careful not to break key) and then worked fine again.
Have just remembered when I first removed actuator and left it off the car intending to use the key, it wouldn't turn at all so I loosened the mechanism, sprayed wd40 and put grease over all moving parts and generally prodded it about until the key worked, which it still does. So I could have bent something thats now causing issue with actuator?

I paid no attention to passenger door other than noting it wasn't working at all, but can't be sure its even connected: I was focusing on Drivers door

The wires to lock are the same gauge or bigger, there defo not smaller.

Drivers door was shut.

The red/black is defo getting power to clcu and power defo getting to the actuator because can feel it in the actuator.
I dont know how to check if its receiving full power? I have a multi meter though if thats the tool to find out?
I never checked if power getting to the Brown on clcu, I only checked actuator recieving lock and unlock pulse's which it was.

Now I know the mechanism can go wrong I'm thinking I should spend some time on that next, hopefully tomorrow..... At least I feel like i'm going in right direction again... Thanks....

[Avinit4]

Update..... I checked mechanism and cleaned the actual door lock mechanism but still didnt seem to have enough power to work actuators!!!! So got auto electrician round, and turned out to be w wires were on the battery positive needed to be moved and be earthed and the CLCU needed an earth...... Then yee ha all working fine...... Thanks for all your help chaps, much appreciated...

[Avinit4]

Above should read ....2 wires were on battery positive....