'The Old Hound' 1986 Tech 1

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Kos
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Thu Jun 27, 2013 10:47 pm

some inspiration for you coming up
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Thu Jun 27, 2013 11:06 pm

Not clocked this thread before, fair play to you for rolling with the punches
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Kos
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Thu Jun 27, 2013 11:10 pm

my e30 m3

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inner flitch

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under fuse box

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and from the top

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bulkhead

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and rust the same place yours has gone

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cut out

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repaired, its doent have to be pretty but we did grind it back after

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"jacking" point before & after

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battery tray

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cleaned up

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one of the chassis legs had evidence of previous very poor repair

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basically the whole front end was fubard so we just cut it out


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everything from the scuttle forward is new

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some of my panels being preped

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new battery tray and bulk head welding

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some strengthening of the turrets

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all built up on a jig

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Thu Jun 27, 2013 11:23 pm

nice work kos, get stuck in bab
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polsta
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Thu Jun 27, 2013 11:27 pm

bab-91 wrote:[ Also new scuttle panels are stamped differently so will be cutting my stamp off and fitting it to the new one.
i have no idea- but if you provide the paper work, bmw will probably/possibly sell you a new panel with the number stamped ? would be worth paying if they do
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Thu Jun 27, 2013 11:28 pm

lyricalnut02 wrote:nice work kos, get stuck in bab
awsome work kos !! :cool: is that new/current pics in progress or an old car ?
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Kos
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Thu Jun 27, 2013 11:33 pm

jesus its a long story with this car, i still have it but i needs finishing

too many other distractions over the last few years :(
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polsta
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Thu Jun 27, 2013 11:37 pm

whats the current state then ? be immense when done ]#

bab- i dont know if this is it ?

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Kos
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Thu Jun 27, 2013 11:41 pm

thats the scuttle

there is no repair panel for that rusty section as it part of the mail shell/monocoque

current state is the shell is done, i have lots of nice parts for it including bilstein grp N coilovers, brembo brakes etc

need to decide what donk to but into it, paint it and fit it up

sounds easy but its not
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polsta
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Thu Jun 27, 2013 11:46 pm

would bmw stamp it for him ?

not easy but worth it, turk has a reconditioned s14 lump for sale i think
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Kos
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Thu Jun 27, 2013 11:50 pm

yep, the would and put on the chassis no & shell no

the right parts people know how to do it all. i've ordered 3 in my life time, last one was £40
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Thu Jun 27, 2013 11:53 pm

kos what happened to the s14 that came with the m3?
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Kos
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Thu Jun 27, 2013 11:57 pm

no idea, when Dips got it i had an M30 in it with some genuine B6S bits

he had it turbo'd and after i got it off him i blew it up and when i took it apart i soon realised it was pretty bad, so i embarked on journey to restore the shell and one day i'll figure out what i'll do with it

its a 100% rust free shell, 100% straight and legit with history and paperpwork and i'd entertain sensible offers for it with or with out suspension

failing that, i'll build it up and use it
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polsta
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Fri Jun 28, 2013 12:02 am

Kos wrote:yep, the would and put on the chassis no & shell no

the right parts people know how to do it all. i've ordered 3 in my life time, last one was £40
i thought the $58 real oem price looked cheap, but thats super ! there you go bab, much better and easier than cutting your one and welding in another
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Kos
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Fri Jun 28, 2013 12:16 am

the scuttle needs to be cut and welded

the internal bit needs fabrication
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Fri Jun 28, 2013 10:28 am

Be aware that the replacement scuttle generally comes with a stamped VIN that looks like it was done by Stevie Wonder after too many rocks ! :eek: The preferred move is to use both outer sections and join it through the scuttle grille aperture , thus retaining your original VIN stamping.
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Sat Jun 29, 2013 7:00 pm

Kos wrote:some inspiration for you coming up

Nice work Kos, what way did you prep the new panels?

polsta wrote:would bmw stamp it for him ?

It's stamped but the format of the stamp is different. I plan to retain the orginal vin. Thats what I meant by this.
bab-91 wrote: Also new scuttle panels are stamped differently so will be cutting my stamp off and fitting it to the new one. Sure what else would I do with my time.....
pacerpete wrote:Be aware that the replacement scuttle generally comes with a stamped VIN that looks like it was done by Stevie Wonder after too many rocks ! :eek: The preferred move is to use both outer sections and join it through the scuttle grille aperture , thus retaining your original VIN stamping.
Yip that's what I've heard & planned to do. Any joy with the Iphone? :)
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Kos
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Sun Jun 30, 2013 1:45 am

I've been pretty lucky with the vin no's that I've had stamped they were not too bad

As far as prep goes, edges that would see a welder were ground back to metal and had copper primer put on to them. The guys that did it were spot on, it wasn't cheap but it was done properly
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bab-91
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Sun Jun 30, 2013 1:22 pm

The body work will be done as well as humanly possible... hopefully.

Only thing holding me back from doing things id like, is location. No acid dipping or plastic media blasting this side of the water :evil:


I have all new glass coming, interior will be like new, so the fact I can't go that extra mile with the shell is annoying my happiness.
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Mon Sep 16, 2013 3:50 pm

I thought it was about time to put Polsta's houndstooth fetish in its place.

10 meters of new unstained (ish) houndstooth. :wan:

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Wed Sep 18, 2013 6:51 pm

Not much progress with the old hound recently. As you can see from the above picture the recaro's are in the middle of being done, so hopefully be able to show the finished article soon!

I've been somewhat quiet because I've been in the middle of a dispute with Westtrading. I cannot stress this enough, under no circumstances deal with this company!!

I initially got in touch with them asking them to match bolster cloth for the recaro LS's. They replied they do not deal with the public unless they are VAT registered. Fair enough, I got a VAT number to 'piggy back' on.

I then got back in touch with them and they told me to send a sample. I emailed them back to say "I could send them a full bolster but THEY MUST RETURN IT AS IT IS FROM A COMPLETE SET WHICH I WOULD LIKE TO KEEP THAT WAY!"

They agreed. All was fine, other than there was up to a 4 week gap in replys. :roll:

I waited 4 months for samples and when they did send me a sample. It was black cloth from a Hyundai Pony. :x

The quality of the material was also suspect, so replied to say, this material was no where near a match. After various emails they said it was the best they could do.

I had also ordered 3 meters of green houndstooth and 3 meters of an other material for an e28 for a fellow zoner.

So emailed them: send the above materials and my bolster.
They then informed me they had lost the bolster & it is not there policy to compensate for lost items.

So after months of dealing with these Dyke digging, clog wearing cu*ts I was no closer with my own seats and very tempted to tell them to keep the other cloth because I can't face giving them money!
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Wed Sep 18, 2013 11:22 pm

Arse.
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Fri Sep 20, 2013 4:58 pm

bab-91 wrote:I thought it was about time to put Polsta's houndstooth fetish in its place.

10 meters of new unstained (ish) houndstooth. :wan:

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oh no, now you've done it :hammer:
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bab-91
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Tue Dec 31, 2013 11:54 am

I'm starting the bodywork on the tech one in the next few weeks. Picked up a rotisserie from Jozi so things are moving slowly.


The car is going for Soda blasting and the chap doing the blasting said he would recommend the arches being cut out and blasting the exposed area but others have said that's an awful idea. So I don't know which to do?
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Tue Dec 31, 2013 12:06 pm

Take plenty of pics whatever you decide to do Bab. :)
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Tue Dec 31, 2013 12:15 pm

Gert_8 wrote:Take plenty of pics whatever you decide to do Bab. :)

This ! Rust and bodge pics needed ! :D
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Tue Dec 31, 2013 12:18 pm

be careful with the sand blaster, if i had blasted my tech1 there wouldn't be much left !
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Tue Dec 31, 2013 12:18 pm

pacerpete wrote:
Gert_8 wrote:Take plenty of pics whatever you decide to do Bab. :)

This ! Rust and bodge pics needed ! :D

The rust & bodge pics are a few pages back... you 'orrible cu**s! :)


It's Soda blasting Jim so it shouldn't be as aggressive as sand blasting.... although that said, I don't think much will come back :(
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Tue Dec 31, 2013 12:34 pm

bab-91 wrote:
pacerpete wrote:
Gert_8 wrote:Take plenty of pics whatever you decide to do Bab. :)

This ! Rust and bodge pics needed ! :D

The rust & bodge pics are a few pages back... you 'orrible cu**s! :)


It's Soda blasting Jim so it shouldn't be as aggressive as sand blasting.... although that said, I don't think much will come back :(

There will be more, trust me ! :D
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Tue Dec 31, 2013 4:39 pm

What lurks beneath eh? Positive thoughts!


So nobody has an opinion on whether to Soda blast the car with the arches removed?
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Tue Dec 31, 2013 5:01 pm

Well you probably don't want to leave them on

My guess is - if your soda blasting the whole car 100% fully stripped to bare shell on a big spinning stick- you need to be asking yourself how fast is it going to move ? Ie all the welding and priming and sealant to have it ready for paint- you can't leave a bare metal shell hanging about for weeks or months/years in a bare blasted metal with no primer state

To me it sounds like you need to get the arches and other major rust cut out and all done and welded in aswell as any major panel work, then temp primed, then blast the shell and rinse and treat (or whatever the process is) and prime it all in a completed sense as fast as possible, at a guess
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Thu Jan 02, 2014 3:00 pm

Rotisserie (spinning stick :D) - Check
Primer layer - Check



The question was more to do with is it a good idea to soda blast the car after the arches are removed. A few Mk1 & Mk2 escort types have said its a terrible idea because the soda would promote rust in that area?

Whereas the chap doing soda blasting recommends it... so I'm at a crossroads!
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Thu Jan 02, 2014 3:13 pm

bab-91 wrote:Rotisserie (spinning stick :D) - Check
Primer layer - Check



The question was more to do with is it a good idea to soda blast the car after the arches are removed. A few Mk1 & Mk2 escort types have said its a terrible idea because the soda would promote rust in that area?

Whereas the chap doing soda blasting recommends it... so I'm at a crossroads!
Go with your man - getting his recommendation in writing. Then sue if you get rust. :)
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Thu Jan 02, 2014 4:37 pm

whats the exact process your thinking ?

are you dipping it after ? then the various other coatings, its major work to do a car like this and more so with the rust issues you have and will find, you cant leave it hanging around in bare metal state for long once its blasted, then it sounds wierd to blast, prime, then start welding, unless its going back to be dipped ? , to really do a proper job the shell needs to be 100% finished and solid then to be dipped and treated and coated as a finished shell, its a big big job for a professional with a lot of expirience and a phenominal amount of cash, personly id go buy an m3 with the money it will all cost 8O
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Kos
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Thu Jan 02, 2014 5:11 pm

No, shell should be dipped to see the full extent of the damage, then repaired and then be taken back to coated
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