Anyone in Aberdeenshire with an M10 engine

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verde
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Post Wed Jan 01, 2014 5:46 pm

Anyone in my area with a running 316 I can get a peek at to see what goes where. Been managing so far but gotten to a point between using the E30 haynes, the E21 haynes and the internet I am still stuck and my car wont fire up

Hoped someone reasonably local may have one i can compare to see which hose goes where and what im missing/needing
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Post Wed Jan 01, 2014 7:32 pm

Does yours have the solex or pierburg carb on it?
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ah
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Post Wed Jan 01, 2014 8:48 pm

Send a pm to Brianmooore,there is much he don't know or repost onto technical page.
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Post Wed Jan 01, 2014 9:23 pm

A weber
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Post Wed Jan 01, 2014 10:30 pm

With a DMTL, I'm pretty sure you only have to run the vac line from the carb to the dizzy and that's it. Block off the one on the inlet manifold (if it has one, it's for the MPG gauge or ECU on an E30), and the rest are all associated with the pierburg/solex carb and assorted gubbins.

In what way won't it fire? You need air, fuel and a spark all at the right time to make it go bang.
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Post Wed Jan 01, 2014 11:16 pm

Have you tried pouring some fuel, or spraying carb/brake cleaner down the chokes then turning it over to see if it will fire? You may need to repeat several times to get it to draw the fuel through.
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Post Wed Jan 01, 2014 11:36 pm

Its got fuel, air and spark, all it does it pop flames out the exhaust and sometimes carburetor
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Post Wed Jan 01, 2014 11:41 pm

Have you fitted the fuel feed hose to the correct take-off on the carb?

My Fiat twin-cam's previous owner had fitted a hose from the bottom base flange of the carb to the spare (fuel return outlet) take-off, which resulted in fuel being directly fed into the inlet manifold, bypassing the carb altogether!

It ran, just, but very rich and loads of smoke and backfiring.

The hose from the bottom flange should have gone to the air filter housing (it was some kind of vacuum sensing anti-stall device), and when I swapped it over, it ran properly.
Last edited by Speedtouch on Thu Jan 02, 2014 12:15 am, edited 3 times in total.
///M aurice
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Post Wed Jan 01, 2014 11:42 pm

I've got an m10 with a Webber and loom attached in my garage, let me know if you want any photos.
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Post Thu Jan 02, 2014 12:07 am

Suedenim if you could send me lots of photos of your bay with where the hoses go I would really love that.

Maurice I think you may be correct! Il try tomorrow.
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Post Thu Jan 02, 2014 1:11 am

Verde it's not in an engine bay, just sat waiting to go in the e21, although complete with an e30 loom and Webber attached but will take a load of photos.
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Post Thu Jan 02, 2014 3:00 am

That should be fine anyway, thank you
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Post Thu Jan 02, 2014 3:12 am

Lets get this sorted Euan
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Post Thu Jan 02, 2014 3:17 am

Rav335uk wrote:Lets get this sorted Euan
Im quality with mechanics eh :D
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Post Thu Jan 02, 2014 3:18 am

Lol.
I know.
You went and bought a newer 3 series
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Post Thu Jan 02, 2014 9:20 am

If the distributor has been swapped (why ?) and you have flames and backfiring , the timing WILL be out. There are undoubtably other issues but iirc , if you have a Weber carb, the car should start and run, in a fashion with NOTHING else connected except the distributor and fuel.
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Post Thu Jan 02, 2014 10:42 am

^ This. We went through this on the other thread. As I said, the only vacuum pipe you need for the weber runs from the carb to the dizzy. The only other wires you need go to the temperature sensor, the oil pressure switch, the distributor, the ignition module and the coil, and you only need the last three for it to start.

The only time I've had a problem with mine backfiring, was when I didn't do the earth on the coil up properly, or the rotor arm had worn out/needed cleaning.

Make sure you know which way the dizzy is rotating, and make sure your plug leads are on the right way for a start. On an E30, #1 on the dizzy is to the left of the vacuum advance diaphragm IIRC and the firing order (1342) is on the rocker cover.
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Post Thu Jan 02, 2014 11:58 am

capnmchl wrote:^ This. We went through this on the other thread. As I said, the only vacuum pipe you need for the weber runs from the carb to the dizzy. The only other wires you need go to the temperature sensor, the oil pressure switch, the distributor, the ignition module and the coil, and you only need the last three for it to start.

The only time I've had a problem with mine backfiring, was when I didn't do the earth on the coil up properly, or the rotor arm had worn out/needed cleaning.

Make sure you know which way the dizzy is rotating, and make sure your plug leads are on the right way for a start. On an E30, #1 on the dizzy is to the left of the vacuum advance diaphragm IIRC and the firing order (1342) is on the rocker cover.
It has to be a timing issue then Il go look it this afternoon. Maybe I have put a fuel hose on the wrong place
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Post Thu Jan 02, 2014 12:15 pm

Try temporarily disconnecting the vacuum advance pipe to the carb and blocking it at the carb end; Weber carbs tend to have unstable, fluctuating inlet manifold vacuum levels, which may be upsetting the ignition timing.

My Fiat twin cam, which came with a Weber as standard, didn't have any vacuum advance diaphragm on the carb for this reason.
///M aurice
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Post Thu Jan 02, 2014 12:57 pm

Heres what I have

This is the fuel line

Image

This is coming off the dizzy going to the bottom of the intake manifold

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This also comes off the intake

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Marrakesh brown tech 2 LSx loading.....
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Post Thu Jan 02, 2014 1:47 pm

The one for the dizzy needs to be higher up, where you have the one going to the diverter valve. Again, I'm fairly sure you can throw that diverter valve and piping away (I can't remember where the other end goes). Just use a short bit of pipe with a screw/bolt in it to blank off the vacuum port.

The fuel pump looks correct.

I'll go out and take some photos of mine.
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Post Thu Jan 02, 2014 1:58 pm

Bear in mind this isn't a DMTL carb, but a DGV designed for Ford Pinto engines, the concept is still the same.

This is the N/S of the inlet manifold, showing the vacuum port blocked off:

Image

This is the O/S of the manifold and carb. The pipe leading into the carb goes to the vacuum advance:

Image


This shows the lower vacuum port on the inlet manifold blocked off, and again, the pipe to the dizzy:

Image

This shows my fuel pump which is apparantly different to yours:

Image

Still, the problem remains that you have a timing problem.
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Post Thu Jan 02, 2014 2:01 pm

I am fairly certain the distributor vacuum hose should be attached to a 'ported vacuum' I;E from the carb, not the manifold. Try swapping the two vacuum hoses in the bottom pic. Even better , block off the manifold port (use a bit of hose with a bolt in it) and remove the black circular valve from the big hose and block the lower hose with an old wheel bolt / spark plug . The engine does not need this to run but if it is fooooked it will cause a big air leak.

Have you checked the distributor timing yet ? If you have removed / replaced the distributor, ,this WILL BE your problem.
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Post Thu Jan 02, 2014 4:09 pm

Euan, you didn't mention the removal of the original dizzy mate.
Why did you remove it?? :?
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Post Thu Jan 02, 2014 4:20 pm

Image

Image

Image

Image

Last one is probably the relevant one. The hose on the front of the intake is blanked (although crudely). Plastic vacuum hose goes to vac advance. Only other thing is the fuel line to pump. Let me know if you want higher res emailed. HTH
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Post Thu Jan 02, 2014 5:37 pm

Its running :D. we turned the dizzy like 90 degrees and it fired up
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Post Thu Jan 02, 2014 5:40 pm

Congratulations! Make sure it's properly timed in order to get the best out of it; when I first bought my Fiat twin cam, the previous owner had set the timing to TDC, and it needed to be at 10 degrees BTDC to work properly.
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Post Thu Jan 02, 2014 5:43 pm

Would be more concerned with it blowing holes through pistons at TDC not "getting the best out of it"
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Post Thu Jan 02, 2014 5:45 pm

Yeah well now it runs the next part is get it tuned up and running fine. Il play around with those hoses too
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Post Thu Jan 02, 2014 5:48 pm

Obviously you won't get the timing right without a dyno run but you should be able to get it fairly close just by a timing light, ear, and bit of guess work.
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Post Thu Jan 02, 2014 5:49 pm

Don't fook up the engine!
It's a bloody good one. :D
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Post Thu Jan 02, 2014 6:01 pm

Its even louder than it was before which is going to be hilarious

[youtube][/youtube]

Rav, will I need to do the engine timing or will ignition timing be all?
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Post Thu Jan 02, 2014 6:16 pm

Ignition should be timed up if you've disturbed the dizzy.
It ran sweet as a nut in the E30
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Post Thu Jan 02, 2014 6:21 pm

So just sort the ignition/dizzy timing?


[youtube][/youtube]
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Post Thu Jan 02, 2014 7:06 pm

That is missing like a bitch.