Fuel Tank obstruction
Moderator: martauto
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gooner1
- Out humping Reindeer
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A quick one re the above, I know it's
not good to tow an auto but is ok to manualy push it in neutral?
As you can probably tell, I don't have a lot of experience with autos.
not good to tow an auto but is ok to manualy push it in neutral?
As you can probably tell, I don't have a lot of experience with autos.

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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member

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Push it? By hand? Absolutely fine - you'll conk out long before the gearbox.
If you have to tow an auto, you can tow it for 30 miles at max, 30 MPH, or if you need to tow it further, overfill the gearbox oil by one litre.
If you have to tow an auto, you can tow it for 30 miles at max, 30 MPH, or if you need to tow it further, overfill the gearbox oil by one litre.
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gooner1
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Cheers Brian. 

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beemerbird
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When my Auto was recently recovered by the RAC, their database told them they could tow it on a fixed bar for up to 5 miles at 40 mph. Surprised me, I have to say, but apparently their database guidelines come from the car manufacturers.gooner1 wrote:A quick one re the above, I know it's
not good to tow an auto but is ok to manualy push it in neutral?
As you can probably tell, I don't have a lot of experience with autos.
If it ain't broke, fix it till it is
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gooner1
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Only need to move mine a matter of yards, basically to reverse the position it's in now.
Tank lower than engine atm.
Good luck with MOT, Fi, possibly the nearest thing women get to in relation to expectant fathers.
Tank lower than engine atm.
Good luck with MOT, Fi, possibly the nearest thing women get to in relation to expectant fathers.

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beemerbird
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Thanks, and indeed!gooner1 wrote: Good luck with MOT, Fi, possibly the nearest thing women get to in relation to expectant fathers.
If it ain't broke, fix it till it is
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gooner1
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diable wrote:Have you "jiggled" the auto lever whilst trying to start the car as the inhibiter might not be aligned properly.
I haven't yet but lever is in exactly the same position
it was in when engine was running.
Weather has prevented me from doing sod all today. Atm.

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beemerbird
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She passedbeemerbird wrote:Thanks, and indeed!gooner1 wrote: Good luck with MOT, Fi, possibly the nearest thing women get to in relation to expectant fathers.
If it ain't broke, fix it till it is
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Brianmoooore
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After all this, we're not talking about a car that won't crank, are we??gooner1 wrote:diable wrote:Have you "jiggled" the auto lever whilst trying to start the car as the inhibiter might not be aligned properly.
I haven't yet but lever is in exactly the same position
it was in when engine was running.
Weather has prevented me from doing sod all today. Atm.
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beemerbird
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gooner1 wrote:Seems to be spark, Brian.
Engine turns over ok.
Have checked fuse 11, can also hear pump priming.
If it ain't broke, fix it till it is
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gooner1
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No Brian, engine turning over fine, just not starting.
How ever, one thing I have noticed on closer inspection, a PO had
for some reason replaced fuse 11 with a 15amp one.
Put the correct 7.5 one in and bridged 30 ,87b, no joy.
Does that point more towards the fuel pump itself?
Also moved the auto selector lever and tried to start it with key, again no joy.
Ta, Fi.
How ever, one thing I have noticed on closer inspection, a PO had
for some reason replaced fuse 11 with a 15amp one.
Put the correct 7.5 one in and bridged 30 ,87b, no joy.
Does that point more towards the fuel pump itself?
Also moved the auto selector lever and tried to start it with key, again no joy.
Ta, Fi.

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Brianmoooore
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The reason its not starting (hopefully the only reason) is lack of fuel pump activity.
The two pump versions were specified with a 15A fuse 11, although 10A would be a better compromise.
Put the 30 to 87b link in place, pull the power connector off of the transfer pump, and connect a 12 volt bulb between the two pins, If the bulb lights, then it's not looking good for the health of the pump, although repeat the test at the pressure pump's terminals to make sure.
The two pump versions were specified with a 15A fuse 11, although 10A would be a better compromise.
Put the 30 to 87b link in place, pull the power connector off of the transfer pump, and connect a 12 volt bulb between the two pins, If the bulb lights, then it's not looking good for the health of the pump, although repeat the test at the pressure pump's terminals to make sure.
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beemerbird
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Or maybe (playing devil's advocate here, perhaps) a small plastic item which once resided in a fuel can has managed to get itself wedged somewhere unwanted, thus preventing fuel supply
?
If it ain't broke, fix it till it is
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beemerbird
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I've been thinking about this. Once you've followed the advice above you could maybe disconnect the incoming pipe to the fuel filter and see if you are getting fuel to there, then reconnect that and see if fuel is making its way through the filter itself? This is obviously following your initial thoughts on something getting stuck in the system, and may well be mechanically flawed thinking 
If it ain't broke, fix it till it is
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gooner1
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Update, carried out the checks on both pumps with 12v bulb , no lit bulb.
Tried starting car with key and it fired up for roughly 20 seconds before cutting out.
On that basis, I'm inclined to go with Fi's thoughts, could also detect a slight fuel
smell from engine bay.
What with work commitments etc, I haven't had, and won't have, time to do anything else, until
tomorrow.
Tried starting car with key and it fired up for roughly 20 seconds before cutting out.
On that basis, I'm inclined to go with Fi's thoughts, could also detect a slight fuel
smell from engine bay.
What with work commitments etc, I haven't had, and won't have, time to do anything else, until
tomorrow.

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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member

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If the bulb does not light with the 30 to 87b link in place, then you need to find out why.
Start by confirming that there is power at pin 30. (Bulb between 30 and earth.)
From what you say in your last post, it seems that the pumps fire up occasionally, which is not an uncommon failure mode, but that doesn't explain the bulb not lighting.
Start by confirming that there is power at pin 30. (Bulb between 30 and earth.)
From what you say in your last post, it seems that the pumps fire up occasionally, which is not an uncommon failure mode, but that doesn't explain the bulb not lighting.
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beemerbird
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Is your test bulb good, Rob? I know you're no electrical type, so are you sure you're testing across the right parts of the pump / car earth?
If it ain't broke, fix it till it is
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gooner1
- Out humping Reindeer
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In short Fi, no I'm not sure of any of the above, apart from I know
the bulb is a good working one.
I realy need to get some proper basic electrical testing kit, and more importantly
learn how to use the kit.
I'm faffing about with bits of wire and not making best use of the information
being supplied here.
Got my new bank card this morning, now have to wait for the PIN number.
Could you recommend some basic kit, best suited for a div. Maplins not far from me.
the bulb is a good working one.
I realy need to get some proper basic electrical testing kit, and more importantly
learn how to use the kit.
I'm faffing about with bits of wire and not making best use of the information
being supplied here.
Got my new bank card this morning, now have to wait for the PIN number.
Could you recommend some basic kit, best suited for a div. Maplins not far from me.

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Speedtouch
- Old Skooler

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- Joined: Tue Feb 14, 2006 11:00 pm
- Location: Canterbury
All you need is a basic digital multimeter such as this:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/domestic-multimeter-n20ax
Or this discounted model:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/ut-30b-digita ... eter-n15by
Or if you're feeling flush, go for a car-specific one, such as this:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/automotive-di ... eliveryTab
Then, you can measure such things as dwell angle, revs, etc.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/domestic-multimeter-n20ax
Or this discounted model:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/ut-30b-digita ... eter-n15by
Or if you're feeling flush, go for a car-specific one, such as this:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/automotive-di ... eliveryTab
Then, you can measure such things as dwell angle, revs, etc.
///M aurice
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member

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The main electrical testing device you need is a 12 volt 5W bulb attached to a couple of pieces of wire. A meter has its uses, and is sometimes indispensible, but if you don't understand its limitations, can give very misleading results. Nine times out of ten, the bulb is what you need.
An E30 front indicator repeater with the plug cut off is my weapon of choice.
An E30 front indicator repeater with the plug cut off is my weapon of choice.
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gooner1
- Out humping Reindeer
- Posts: 13280
- Joined: Fri Apr 14, 2006 11:00 pm
- Location: Northampton.For my sins.
" An E30 front indicator repeater with the plug cut off is my weapon of choice."
Just had a rummage and found the very thing, have put spade connectors on,
tested it on a big torch battery and the bulb lit.
Will repeat all the previous tests and update.
PS, youngest daughter returned with this last night,
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/ut-30b-digita ... eter-n15by
Bless her, she doesn't know what she's started.
Just had a rummage and found the very thing, have put spade connectors on,
tested it on a big torch battery and the bulb lit.
Will repeat all the previous tests and update.
PS, youngest daughter returned with this last night,
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/ut-30b-digita ... eter-n15by
Bless her, she doesn't know what she's started.

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Speedtouch
- Old Skooler

- Posts: 14123
- Joined: Tue Feb 14, 2006 11:00 pm
- Location: Canterbury
Good for you - looks like a very decent meter for the price. 
///M aurice
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
