Want to fully disconnect my cab roof motors

[Flute]

Hi, as some may know I have a broken cab roof. I want to fully disconnect the motors so I can refit the battery to allow the car to start. Is it just as simple as unplugging them?

Flute.

[pacerpete]

The car will start and behave as normal, whether the roof motors are connected or not.
IIRC There are two levers in the boot that you press to disengage the motors which will allow the hood flap to open and the roof to operate manually.

[Flute]

Cheers for the fast reply, when I connected the battery last time the motor to the left as you look in the boot was very hot!!! So I presume it's getting a signal from somewhere telling it to run? I want to stop this signal and one way I suppose is to disconnect the plugs. Just not sure if this is total disconnection.

Flute.

[Gert_8]

The car will start and behave as normal, whether the roof motors are connected or not.
IIRC There are two levers in the boot that you press to disengage the motors which will allow the hood flap to open and the roof to operate manually.

As Pete has said the car will operate correctly whether the motors are connected or not. I understand what you want to do, suggest ensuring the roof is up and locked in the closed position before disconnecting the motors - will save you a lot of hassle re-synchronising later.

However, the motor on the right side is disconnected by inserting the rod (has a plastic end) from the tool kit into the hole at the top of the lever that holds this motor in place. I think you need to push up. The motor will drop down. Give it a little support with your free hand to stop the hinge being damaged (can happen).

The horseshoe motor in the centre is disconnected by inserting the same rod (if I recall) into another obvious hole and pushing to the right.

Both are now inactive and disengaged.

[Flute]

Cheers for the response, when you mention inactive does this mean there will be no power to the motor? I don't want it to "overheat" as I believe it was doing before hence me wanting to totally disconnect.
I will also be converting to a manual operation to avoid other electrical problems that may happen to my roof in future.

Flute.

[Gert_8]

Anyone that converts from the electric roof system to manual is a damned quitter in my books!!

Keep it electric.

Yes, motors will not work, as they do not get any power. When they are in position and engaged, the micro switches are activated, which is when they start to work.

[pacerpete]

Easy was to cut any possible power issues would be to disconnect the main switch.

[Flute]

Yeh I have already disconnected the battery I take it that's the main switch?
But I need to start the car from time to time.

Flute

[Flute]

In keeping with gert_8 I have taken a look at the roof and found that the roof motor mechanism looks fine. However the linkage with the swivel joint on it has sheared at the swivel end only. Are these things available to purchase? Does anyone have a code or one spare hey no longer need.

Cheers,
Flute

[Gert_8]

The swivel end can be purchased from the dealer, but you may also need to replace the rods - a slight kink will stop it working properly, and it will have been weakened.

Check out realoem for the part number - I've got it at work, so can send it to you tomorrow, if required.

[Gert_8]

Bmw-mad is breaking a cab with an electric roof. Ask him for the bits.

[Flute]

Cheers mate, the rod looks like it is bent at 90 degrees but looks as though that is how it was formed. I will see how it goes when I purchase the swivel.

Flute.

[Gert_8]

The two main rods are straight - one has a very slight bend in it. Nothing has 90 degrees. That will be damaged, but you'll find you cannot connect both ends.

[Flute]

Cheers gert_8, I have just looked on the wiki link and your right it is not meant to be 90 degrees. I will need to purchase one of these also the nut. Once I have this can the roof be operated ( once serviced and lubricated). How easy is it to set up the micro switches?

Flute.

[Gert_8]

Has the roof worked in the past? If it has, and you disconnected the motors as I recommended, i.e with the roof up, locked, and the electrics off, you should be able to link up the new rod(s) and the swivel joint, then reconnect the motors.

Start the reconnection with the main one first (right side) followed by the central horseshoe one.

I would highly recommend you take the cover off the main motor (from inside the storage compartment) and take apart the two levers that slide over each other - the top one looks like a "chicken drumstick". Inspect the pin and make sure it has not been damaged or been push so that it is no longer sitting level. There is a tremendous amount of force that pivots at this point.

Let us know how you get on.

[Flute]

I most certainly will matey, thanks for all your help so far it's been invaluable. I will be taking off the motor completely next week end as although it looks in good nick it may be damaged underneath (usual place that breaks). I took the "drum stick shaped plate" out before and all looks nice and tight. I'm just not too sure about all those micro switches and setting them up properly.

Flute.

[Gert_8]

When I'm at work tomorrow, I'll make some time to send you the technical drawing on the parts that are affected when the roof mech breaks. I'll also send you some pics I took of my cab, when I was trying to sort out the problem you are describing.

Search for my threads and have a read. All the info I am passing on has been given to me by the guys on here, so it's nothing new. I'm delighted to be able to help you.

I wouldn't worry too much about the micro switches, just yet. Let's get the damaged bits
Replaced first and see if the roof will work. The micro switches supply power and the
Timing on when the motors kick in/out.

[Flute]

A massive Thankyou.


Flute.

[Gert_8]

Hi Flute,

This is the page you need for part numbers:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=54&fg=10

The part you are after is number 11, and possibly the rod number, 3.

As I mentioned, you may want to have a look at the pivot under the drumstick levers. Mine had sheered, as they do, and the repair plate was still damaged, resulting in me needing a new one. I found everything would work, but the horseshoe would only get to a certain stage before jamming - look at the pic and you will see the pivot didn't need much to cause the problem.

Jammed at this point.


the pivot distortion was causing these levers to catch.


My repair plate.




Plate replaced. All hinges lubricated and motors reconnected and everything works just fine! Good luck.

[Flute]

Thankyou for the info, I will be placing an order for the parts very soon. Fingers crossed it all works after I put it back together.

Flute