Hi all! I have a 2.5 turbo and I'm having trouble starting from cold, it has not Had this problem all along only started in the last couple months, the engine cranks for a good 10 seconds some times more before it fires up.
Once it's started it starts straight away every time,'I'm confident there is fuel at the rail as I have had the return off and bleed it to rule out air getting In the fuel line. Does anyone know if the fuel pressure regulator can bee tested or know symptoms of a failing regulator? Or of course what's wrong with it
Thanks
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Cold start is difficult
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Speedtouch
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Have you checked the blue temperature sensor?
http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... emp_Sensor
Also worth replacing the fuel filter if it hasn't been done in ages. AFAIK, the only way to test the FPR is to hook up a pressure gauge to the fuel rail and measure it.
http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... emp_Sensor
Also worth replacing the fuel filter if it hasn't been done in ages. AFAIK, the only way to test the FPR is to hook up a pressure gauge to the fuel rail and measure it.
///M aurice
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ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
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dot
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No I haven't ill get my Muti meter out! I wasn't sure if that would affect it as it not on standard ecu. Worth a shot though 
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dot
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its a vems ecu but I would assume it would still use cold start function on it as im sure it needs it, I did manage to measure the resistance on the sensor it was 3.01ohms cold which seems correct, haven't measured it hot yet as I ran out of time
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Tommek
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3 ohm is not good. You should see 3-4k ohms when cold wich should drop to 300 when hot.
http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Blue_Plug
http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Blue_Plug
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Brianmoooore
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I doubt very much if the OP has a meter that can accurately measure 3.01 ohms, so I suspect this is actually 3100 ohms.
3.01 ohms would be a short circuited loom.
3.01 ohms would be a short circuited loom.
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gromgsxr
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Why not plug a laptop in if you have standalone? A quick test Hold the throttle open a tiny bit if it starts better there is to much cranking fuel if its worse you need more cranking fuel and can adjust accordingly.
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dot
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The multi meter was actually set on 20k as the sensor resistance was to high for the lower ohms measurements
Great suggestion gromgsxr! I didn't actually think of that but there is coolant temp gauge on the vems program this could of saved sometime and hassle
What a doff I should of thought of that
Great suggestion gromgsxr! I didn't actually think of that but there is coolant temp gauge on the vems program this could of saved sometime and hassle
What a doff I should of thought of that
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Speedtouch
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A reading of 3.01 on the 20k range would equal 3,010 ohms - about right for a cold temp. sensor.
///M aurice
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
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dot
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Tested sensor hot and cold all results all within tolerance and I the coolant gauge on vems seemed to give accurate temps cold and hot
I read in wiki that the icv should buzz,I have no buzz my icv clicks shut when ignition is turned on I take it that is normal?
I read in wiki that the icv should buzz,I have no buzz my icv clicks shut when ignition is turned on I take it that is normal?
Chassis twist!
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Speedtouch
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If it idles OK, then there is probably no problem with it. In any case, I doubt it would affect cold starting.
It sounds like you need to configure the cold start map.
It sounds like you need to configure the cold start map.
///M aurice
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
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zaust
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