Rough guide, with me supplying all parts.
TIA.
No time or garage, before anybody says D.I.Y
Cost of auto to manual conversion. M10 318i.
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gooner1
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daimlerman
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For a garage,working on a lift,it's much the same as swapping a clutch.
I would suggest 3 to 4 hours labour.
As a complete aside,make whoever does the job for you aware of how the starter inhibit circuit works.
Behind the glovebox and it's liner,they need to locate the black/yellow starter signal wire at it's two connectors.It's spilt and two plain blacks wander off to a relay,with a sub harness going to the rear of the gear selector.The black wires need to be removed and the two black/yellow's connected together.
At the gear selector end,your manual 'box should have a short harness from the reverse light switch,this plugs into a connector that is removed from the sub-harness that goes to the gear selector.
Hope that makes sense!
I would suggest 3 to 4 hours labour.
As a complete aside,make whoever does the job for you aware of how the starter inhibit circuit works.
Behind the glovebox and it's liner,they need to locate the black/yellow starter signal wire at it's two connectors.It's spilt and two plain blacks wander off to a relay,with a sub harness going to the rear of the gear selector.The black wires need to be removed and the two black/yellow's connected together.
At the gear selector end,your manual 'box should have a short harness from the reverse light switch,this plugs into a connector that is removed from the sub-harness that goes to the gear selector.
Hope that makes sense!
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gooner1
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Cheers for that, Malc.daimlerman wrote:For a garage,working on a lift,it's much the same as swapping a clutch.
I would suggest 3 to 4 hours labour.
As a complete aside,make whoever does the job for you aware of how the starter inhibit circuit works.
Behind the glovebox and it's liner,they need to locate the black/yellow starter signal wire at it's two connectors.It's spilt and two plain blacks wander off to a relay,with a sub harness going to the rear of the gear selector.The black wires need to be removed and the two black/yellow's connected together.
At the gear selector end,your manual 'box should have a short harness from the reverse light switch,this plugs into a connector that is removed from the sub-harness that goes to the gear selector.
Hope that makes sense!

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daimlerman
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Further thoughts!
If you can provide the garage with a car with;
Carpet removed
Glovebox/liner removed
You will cut your labour bill.
You may need to add an hour or so to allow for pedal box work/fitting a clutch fluid thingy as well.
If you can provide the garage with a car with;
Carpet removed
Glovebox/liner removed
You will cut your labour bill.
You may need to add an hour or so to allow for pedal box work/fitting a clutch fluid thingy as well.
Youth is wasted on the young.
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bss325i
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I was about to say you need to add a couple of hours on top a clutch replacement time for fitting the pedal box and hydraulics, flywheel and spigot bearing.
If the donor parts a used, a new prop centre bearing, guibo, gear linkage parts and gearbox selector shaft seal are all things that should be replaced while its all in bits.
Also worth note is that you may want to change to diff as i think the auto 4 pots are something like 4.45 which will mean it will be a bit revvy at higher speeds and changing to a 4.10 would be better.
If the donor parts a used, a new prop centre bearing, guibo, gear linkage parts and gearbox selector shaft seal are all things that should be replaced while its all in bits.
Also worth note is that you may want to change to diff as i think the auto 4 pots are something like 4.45 which will mean it will be a bit revvy at higher speeds and changing to a 4.10 would be better.
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bss325i
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Carpet does not need to be removed either.
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capnmchl
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My original diff was a 3.91 and the one off the manual donor car was a 3.91, that was an '86 M10 316.bss325i wrote:Also worth note is that you may want to change to diff as i think the auto 4 pots are something like 4.45 which will mean it will be a bit revvy at higher speeds and changing to a 4.10 would be better.
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Andyboy
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Realistically it's a weekend's work to do a thorough job. 3-4 hours is not possible although it could be done in a long day - assuming every part is there and it all fits without an issue. Done a few of these now so it doesn't pose any particular problems. They're about the easiest one to do. Labour £££ wise, about 300 quid.
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gooner1
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Thanks all. 

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gooner1
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Going to have to put this on hold for a while.
Car failed MOT today, nothing major but in this weather it's a bit of a ballache.
Worse part is, after getting the refusal, I ran the Reg and V5 through the GOV/Doc/Org site,
to check previous MOT's, and the fail parts have been advisory's for the past 3 years.
F*****g tight coont P/O's
Car failed MOT today, nothing major but in this weather it's a bit of a ballache.
Worse part is, after getting the refusal, I ran the Reg and V5 through the GOV/Doc/Org site,
to check previous MOT's, and the fail parts have been advisory's for the past 3 years.
F*****g tight coont P/O's

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daimlerman
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Hope that these are not structural rusty bits.... 
Youth is wasted on the young.
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gooner1
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No Malc, control arm ball joint and bushes, might just use thedaimlerman wrote:Hope that these are not structural rusty bits....
whole wishbones I stripped off the cab.

