My old mans motor has decided it would rather not fire up. All the lights come up on the dash, and the whizzing noises seem to be ok under the bonnet but that's it. No attempt by the starter motor whatsoever. I had a go at checking the start inhibitor switch using the wonderful Haines manual method. However they want you to check a wire that doesn't even exist. It appears that using the method in the book for an early 5 series I don't have continuity in 3rd. If I use the method for the three series I have a problem in neutral and drive.
I'm fairly sure the 5 series method is the right way owing to the diagram, but essentially I'm completely lost. Could someone on here (Brian) tell me how to check the bloody thing properly. Would a loss of continuity in the switch in third gear stop the car starting? Also does anyone have a working switch I could purchase.
CIA
Auto cabby starting problems
Moderator: martauto
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scjimbo
- E30 Zone Camper
- Posts: 1249
- Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2012 11:00 pm
- Location: Gloucester
Anybody?
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 49360
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
First of all, work the starter motor by linking together pins 11 and 14 on the diagnostic socket. This will confirm that the problem is with the starter switch/inhibitor circuit.
There is a combined reverse light switch and starter inhibitor switch attached to the side of the selector lever mount, and the inhibitor wires from this run to the coil of a relay behind/under the LH side of the glovebox. Note that if the rod from the selector lever to the gearbox is out of adjustment, the gear positions won't line up with the scale beside the lever, and neither will the positions in which the inhibitor will let you start the car.
The switch contacts from the relay run to the top right of the glovebox area, where they are connected, by two single pole plug and sockets, into the black/yellow start signal wire from the starter section of the ignition switch. If you unplug the relay wires from the black/yellow wires, you will find that the plug and socket on the black/yellows will fit together, bypassing the inhibitor switch (which is how manual cars left the factory). If this allows you to start the car on the key, then the inhibitor switch, its adjustment, or (less likely), the relay or the wiring to it is at fault.
There is a combined reverse light switch and starter inhibitor switch attached to the side of the selector lever mount, and the inhibitor wires from this run to the coil of a relay behind/under the LH side of the glovebox. Note that if the rod from the selector lever to the gearbox is out of adjustment, the gear positions won't line up with the scale beside the lever, and neither will the positions in which the inhibitor will let you start the car.
The switch contacts from the relay run to the top right of the glovebox area, where they are connected, by two single pole plug and sockets, into the black/yellow start signal wire from the starter section of the ignition switch. If you unplug the relay wires from the black/yellow wires, you will find that the plug and socket on the black/yellows will fit together, bypassing the inhibitor switch (which is how manual cars left the factory). If this allows you to start the car on the key, then the inhibitor switch, its adjustment, or (less likely), the relay or the wiring to it is at fault.
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scjimbo
- E30 Zone Camper
- Posts: 1249
- Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2012 11:00 pm
- Location: Gloucester
Thanks a million Brian. I will do as suggested tomorrow.