Brake calipers.

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jmec
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Post Wed Oct 02, 2013 4:49 pm

Anyone recommend a good exchange brake caliper company?
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Post Wed Oct 02, 2013 5:50 pm

I have always used my local Partco,now known as Unipart.
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jimbom30cab
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Post Wed Oct 02, 2013 5:51 pm

Might be cheaper to refurb if possible

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271194065275? ... 1423.l2649
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Gavla
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Post Wed Oct 02, 2013 6:38 pm

bigred, not cheap but looks like they do a proper job.
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jmec
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Post Sun Oct 06, 2013 10:19 am

Thanks for the replies. I've got the offending caliper off. It wasn't backing off the disc enough. Not tight on and therefore overheating and pulling the car over but just rubbing enough to give off an anoying squeak. What to do next? Change the piston seal? The piston looks ok but the caliper looks like it's been at the bottom of the sea for a decade! I'm thinking the condition of the sliding parts would affect the caliper movement. Any thoughts or similar experience tales would be appreciated. Thanks....
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Post Sun Oct 06, 2013 10:53 am

If you've got the time, strip the caliper down, rig up a basic electrolysis tank and de-rust it. Electrolysis is very, very easy to do, and afterwards a simple scrub with a brasswire brush will see the external rust flake off like dandruff.

Then paint the caliper with a paint of your choice, and reassemble with a decent rebuild kit (I bought mine for a fiver). Buy some decent brake lube like ATE grease, and you'll find that the caliper slides smoothly just like it did from the factory.

I rebuilt a sticky caliper like that over a weekend, and haven't had any trouble since. The costs were the paint, the rebuilt kit, the grease and a sachet of soda for the electrolysis tank.
Last edited by Grrrmachine on Sun Oct 06, 2013 4:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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jmec
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Post Sun Oct 06, 2013 3:33 pm

Mmmm interesting, thanks for that. J
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Rob_farmer
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Post Sun Oct 06, 2013 6:16 pm

Grrrmachine wrote:rig up a basic electrolysis tank
Would you know any resources where I can read about it ?
I`m driving E30, 1989, 325i, 4 door. Restoring 1990, 4 door.
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Post Sun Oct 06, 2013 6:31 pm

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Brianmoooore
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Post Sun Oct 06, 2013 10:14 pm

Things the two links above may or may not mention: Multiple anodes surrounding the object to be de rusted are good. The main action takes place on the part of the rusty bit nearest to the anode, with very little happening on the side facing away, so the more of the part you can get facing an anode, the better.
Old brake discs make excellent anodes.
No damage will occur if the rusted object is left in the tank with the current flowing after all the rust has gone.
The croc. clip on the object you are de rusting can be submerged in the solution, but the positive croc. clip on the anode must be out of the liquid.

My own 50 gallon tank is merrily bubbling away as I type, and is hardly ever turned off. Always something needs cleaning up.
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Post Sun Oct 06, 2013 11:14 pm

Ive always found GSF the cheapest for reconditioned calipers
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aimlessrock
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Post Mon Oct 07, 2013 1:34 pm

ive just finished overhauling my rear calipers using electrolysis..not difficult at all.

give it a go Rob.. :D
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Post Mon Oct 07, 2013 4:53 pm

I didn't go down the electrolysis. But did overhaul my calipres using Big Red's kits. Having failed its MOT on brakes the first time round, it sailed through the second time after an overhaul. I think the kits in total came to about £50.

I'd be temped to try electrolysis treatment if I were to do it again.
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jmec
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Post Tue Oct 08, 2013 11:51 am

Thanks for the updates & electrolysis info'. I'll give it a go. J
milescook
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Post Tue Oct 08, 2013 1:19 pm

I tried some electrolysis and it worked great at removing rust. Unfortunately it seems that one of the main bolt holes was mostly rust and a chunk came off where the bolt would sit. It went in the bin..
The story so far... http://www.cookracing.co.uk/

Also please help the race budget by watching some videos :) https://www.youtube.com/cookracinguk
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jmec
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Post Wed Oct 09, 2013 11:22 am

Best to find out that way than when you're shifting down the B
roads! I had such an experience some time back and although I wasn't driving too fast it certainly drew my attention. The thread was 'gone' on one of the caliper bolts. In a short time it worked its way loose and out. The centrifugal force shot it into the inside of the wheel where it pierced the alloy where instant deflation of the tyre resulted. Good job I had a clean pair of pants on standby!!