I have just finished doing an M30 conversion to my E30.
I have never driven the car on the road as it was taken off the road in 2011, and now after doing the conversion and starting it up the first time I saw the ABS light is on.
The ABS light is on constantly once ignition is on, and stays on after start up also stayed on while I took it for a short test drive.
I have replaced the relays on top of the ABS pump under the black plastic, and I have also replaced the ABS ECU. But I am still getting the ABS light.
Is there anything else I could do to maybe sort this problem out, as I cannot get an MOT until I fix this issue as faulty ABS is a MOT failure.
Thanks
ABS Light fixed, Main beam issue!
Moderator: martauto
-
E30_Jatt
- E30 Zone Regular

- Posts: 332
- Joined: Wed Sep 10, 2008 11:00 pm
Last edited by E30_Jatt on Sat Sep 14, 2013 6:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.

-
Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 49360
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
What colour wire do you have (if any) on pin 20 of the C101 engine loom socket? Car side, not engine side.
-
E30_Jatt
- E30 Zone Regular

- Posts: 332
- Joined: Wed Sep 10, 2008 11:00 pm
I had a quick look at the c101 just now, On the car side of the c101 pin 20 has a red/yellow wire. On the engine side pin 20 has a brown/yellow wire.Brianmoooore wrote:What colour wire do you have (if any) on pin 20 of the C101 engine loom socket? Car side, not engine side.
what is the significance of this?

-
Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 49360
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
The red/yellow on the car side tells me that you have the later version of E30 ABS wiring, which obtains its power from the engine loom, rather than via a relay controlled by the ignition switch as in the earlier version.
I'm not familiar with M30 looms, so I don't know what the brown/yellow on your loom is for, but the brown main colour certainly suggests it isn't a 12 volts supply.
You need to disconnect the brown/yellow and connect a wire, of similar thickness to the red/yellow, between either of the 87 terminals on the DME relay and pin 20 of the C101.
I'm not familiar with M30 looms, so I don't know what the brown/yellow on your loom is for, but the brown main colour certainly suggests it isn't a 12 volts supply.
You need to disconnect the brown/yellow and connect a wire, of similar thickness to the red/yellow, between either of the 87 terminals on the DME relay and pin 20 of the C101.
-
E30_Jatt
- E30 Zone Regular

- Posts: 332
- Joined: Wed Sep 10, 2008 11:00 pm
ah I see, I don't know much about the m30 looms myself either I need to find a pinout for the m30 loom. I dont want to cut that wire if it is used by something else in the vehicle

-
Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 49360
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
If it's connected to pin 20, it's not being used by anything else!
It's not brown/orange by any chance? Some (all?) M30s used a two wire engine coolant temp. sensor (IIRC, the 'brown' sensor needs to be replaced by an E30 one?). If so, it's likely to be the disused earth wire for the original sensor.
Pull the plug off of the brown sensor, and check whether it has two wires. If so, check for continuity between the pin that doesn't line up with the single pin in the E30 sensor and the wire at pin 20.
It's not brown/orange by any chance? Some (all?) M30s used a two wire engine coolant temp. sensor (IIRC, the 'brown' sensor needs to be replaced by an E30 one?). If so, it's likely to be the disused earth wire for the original sensor.
Pull the plug off of the brown sensor, and check whether it has two wires. If so, check for continuity between the pin that doesn't line up with the single pin in the E30 sensor and the wire at pin 20.
-
jimbom30cab
- Tech 1 freak
- Posts: 7631
- Joined: Mon Oct 12, 2009 11:00 pm
- Location: in the garage
Dead on Brian, I had to run the extra cable for the ABS from pin 87 on the DME relay to get mine working.
-
E30_Jatt
- E30 Zone Regular

- Posts: 332
- Joined: Wed Sep 10, 2008 11:00 pm
You two were right I cut the wire and put a new one going to pin 87 on the DME relay and HEY PRESTO! no more ABS light.
The problem I have now is to do with the main full beam (inner lights). I can flash the two inner lights no problem and the light illuminates on the dash to say they are working.
When I try to put them on so they stay on by pushing the stalk away from you the problems start. The main beam doesn't come on and no light on the dash either.
what could be wrong here?
The problem I have now is to do with the main full beam (inner lights). I can flash the two inner lights no problem and the light illuminates on the dash to say they are working.
When I try to put them on so they stay on by pushing the stalk away from you the problems start. The main beam doesn't come on and no light on the dash either.
what could be wrong here?

-
BenHar
- E30 Zone Addict

- Posts: 3089
- Joined: Sun Jul 11, 2010 11:00 pm
- Location: Reigate, Surrey
Contacts on the stalk switch may need cleaning.
Ben
Ben
-
daimlerman
- **BANNED**
- Posts: 15968
- Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2006 11:00 pm
- Location: Grumpy Old Man
Or the stalk it's self could be buggeredBenHar wrote:Contacts on the stalk switch may need cleaning.
Ben
-
E30_Jatt
- E30 Zone Regular

- Posts: 332
- Joined: Wed Sep 10, 2008 11:00 pm
I'm glad you guys mentioned the stalk, as I too thought the problem was with the stalk, so I changed the stalk for a known working one but still got the same problem.
Any other ideas?
Any other ideas?

-
Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 49360
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Main beam headlamp relay (K3) turns on the main beams when white wire connected to it is earthed.
This white wire goes to the column switch, where it is directly earthed by the brown wire connected to pin 10, if the flash switch is operated.
If main beams are selected by the column switch, the white wire is connected to a yellow wire, which then becomes a yellow/green wire after a join.
The yellow/green wire goes to the main lighting switch, where it is earthed when the knob is pulled fully out, but also goes to the dipped beam relay (K4) and turns the dipped beams on.
If the lights work on the flash switch, then everything in my second paragraph must be OK, and similarly, if the dipped beams are working (at full brightness), then everything in my fourth paragraph is OK.
Wiring is slightly different if your car has dim dip driving lights, where the yellow/green is used to switch on two orange relays under the glovebox.
First check I'd do is to turn the ignition on, earth the yellow on the column switch, and see if the lights work when 'main' is selected.
This white wire goes to the column switch, where it is directly earthed by the brown wire connected to pin 10, if the flash switch is operated.
If main beams are selected by the column switch, the white wire is connected to a yellow wire, which then becomes a yellow/green wire after a join.
The yellow/green wire goes to the main lighting switch, where it is earthed when the knob is pulled fully out, but also goes to the dipped beam relay (K4) and turns the dipped beams on.
If the lights work on the flash switch, then everything in my second paragraph must be OK, and similarly, if the dipped beams are working (at full brightness), then everything in my fourth paragraph is OK.
Wiring is slightly different if your car has dim dip driving lights, where the yellow/green is used to switch on two orange relays under the glovebox.
First check I'd do is to turn the ignition on, earth the yellow on the column switch, and see if the lights work when 'main' is selected.
