Recommended E30 experienced mechanic/experts needed
Moderator: martauto
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JM2012
- E30 Zone Newbie

- Posts: 102
- Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2012 11:00 pm
Looking for any recommendations on places with good E30 knowledge in the Peterborough area (or as near as possible of course)
Got an annoying noise from the car and would like a professional opinion as to what it is.
Cheerz,
Jon
Got an annoying noise from the car and would like a professional opinion as to what it is.
Cheerz,
Jon
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magpie
- Old Skooler

- Posts: 28035
- Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2008 11:00 pm
- Location: Consett,Durham.
is your car a a 316i/318i m40 ?

m52 b30 stroker 6-speed 318is Galvanizer
m42 touring
+ a yard full of scrap turds
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JM2012
- E30 Zone Newbie

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- Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2012 11:00 pm
Hi Magpie, nope, it is a 325.
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JM2012
- E30 Zone Newbie

- Posts: 102
- Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2012 11:00 pm
Hi Diable, near Peterborough
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JM2012
- E30 Zone Newbie

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- Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2012 11:00 pm
Ok, thanks anyway bud.
Just for basic info on why I would like to see somebody about it..
Although running a little rough it drives and stops
so could be worse but yeh, there is a nasty noise. Sounds like it is driveline based as opposed to an engine noise
Sounds a bit like a spinning/clunking and goes away when you depress the clutch. My Brother suggested the release bearing on the clutch but on further research it seems it would be the other way around if it was that..the noise would be there when depressed and quite when out.
Which lead him to guess it may be the input bearing? on the gearbox side of things..
As said, car drives ok but the noise is just irritating and more to the fact that it shouldn't be there..
In the meantime until I can see someone about it, feel free to chime in with some suggestions as to what it could be
Cheerz,
Jon
Just for basic info on why I would like to see somebody about it..
Although running a little rough it drives and stops
Sounds a bit like a spinning/clunking and goes away when you depress the clutch. My Brother suggested the release bearing on the clutch but on further research it seems it would be the other way around if it was that..the noise would be there when depressed and quite when out.
Which lead him to guess it may be the input bearing? on the gearbox side of things..
As said, car drives ok but the noise is just irritating and more to the fact that it shouldn't be there..
In the meantime until I can see someone about it, feel free to chime in with some suggestions as to what it could be
Cheerz,
Jon
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JM2012
- E30 Zone Newbie

- Posts: 102
- Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2012 11:00 pm
The noise is just at idle as far as I can tell.
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pacerpete
- E30 Zone Team Member

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- Location: Iver heath. South bucks.
Assuming the car idles correctly, I;E 850-900 rpm and there is oil in the gearbox ! It will be the gearbox bearings. The most cost effective fix is a KNOWN GOOD replacement gearbox with a warranty. The other option is to turn the radio up and live with it 
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pacerpete
- E30 Zone Team Member

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- Location: Iver heath. South bucks.
JM2012 wrote:The car does idle low..
Fix that problem and you may find your gearbox noise miraculously disappears !
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JM2012
- E30 Zone Newbie

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- Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2012 11:00 pm
I've looked for leaks in the hoses and also had Forest BMW take a look at it.
I have cleaned the ICV and the AFM
Not sure what else to look for..
I will see if I can find any other suggestions on the e30wiki. If there are other obvious checks please let me know.
Forest did suggest that it was just the gears rattling because the low idle and there was no tension on them.
A new AFM was recommended and that may raise the idle and stop the rattling.
I would like to see what else I can try before shelling out £200 odd pound for a new one though.
I have cleaned the ICV and the AFM
Not sure what else to look for..
I will see if I can find any other suggestions on the e30wiki. If there are other obvious checks please let me know.
Forest did suggest that it was just the gears rattling because the low idle and there was no tension on them.
A new AFM was recommended and that may raise the idle and stop the rattling.
I would like to see what else I can try before shelling out £200 odd pound for a new one though.
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pacerpete
- E30 Zone Team Member

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- Location: Iver heath. South bucks.
DON'T buy any parts ! Find somebody clever to fix the issue that is causing the low idle.
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JM2012
- E30 Zone Newbie

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Indeed! and that is why I mentioned I would like to see what else I can try before shelling out for new parts and I guess brings us back at the start of finding any local recommendations for places I can take her to. hmm..
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Davymc
- E30 Zone Newbie

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Would disagree with the info regarding the thrust bearing on the clutch. They tend to be quiet when under pressure ( clutch pressed)
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JM2012
- E30 Zone Newbie

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Ohhh....
Hmmmm.......
Thanks for your input Davy
Hmmmm.......
Thanks for your input Davy
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scjimbo
- E30 Zone Camper

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+1 every thrust bearing I've ever had is noisy when the clutch is not depressed.Davymc wrote:Would disagree with the info regarding the thrust bearing on the clutch. They tend to be quiet when under pressure ( clutch pressed)
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JM2012
- E30 Zone Newbie

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- Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2012 11:00 pm
Well, maybe that is the problem then..
Anyway, trying to figure out the low idle problem.
Just tested the blue temp sensor and had the following readings..
At the ECU end cold was 2650 ohms and warm was 260 ohms.
At the plug end cold (although not stone cold..) was 730 ohms and warm was 260 ohms
Anyway, trying to figure out the low idle problem.
Just tested the blue temp sensor and had the following readings..
At the ECU end cold was 2650 ohms and warm was 260 ohms.
At the plug end cold (although not stone cold..) was 730 ohms and warm was 260 ohms
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JM2012
- E30 Zone Newbie

- Posts: 102
- Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2012 11:00 pm
Well I checked the reading on the blue plug again as the engine cooled off some more (I forgot to check it after the ECU side before replacing the ECU connecting plug and warming up the engine. Oh well, live n learn) and the reading has gone up to 1130 ohms so by the time it cools completely it'll probably be back around the 2650 mark so that is probably not the problem. Unless the figures are a bit low?? The wiki recommends 3500-4000 when cold and 330 when warm.
Next is to check to see if the c191 plug is corroded. Says this is under the intake manifold? Can I access this in situ or does the manifold need to come off?
Also, temp needle seemed to not be quite right so checked the brown plug/c101 via the earth test as suggested and when the ignition was switched on it did not go to full, so I presume the brass nut behind the cluster may need tightening?
(on a side note, the brown plug had one pin but the brown connector with metal tab had two pin holes. Is this normal??)
Next is to check to see if the c191 plug is corroded. Says this is under the intake manifold? Can I access this in situ or does the manifold need to come off?
Also, temp needle seemed to not be quite right so checked the brown plug/c101 via the earth test as suggested and when the ignition was switched on it did not go to full, so I presume the brass nut behind the cluster may need tightening?
(on a side note, the brown plug had one pin but the brown connector with metal tab had two pin holes. Is this normal??)
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JM2012
- E30 Zone Newbie

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Pulled the TPS to have a look but the pins didn't seem gummed up at all. Gave them a quick squirt of contact cleaner anyway.
Also tested the AFM air temp sensor and reading was 1.92k ohms and outside temp was apparently 21degrees so I think that is within tolerence.
.....
Also tested the AFM air temp sensor and reading was 1.92k ohms and outside temp was apparently 21degrees so I think that is within tolerence.
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toby
- E30 Zone Addict

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- Location: Kent
Has the car been serviced well, got good clean plugs and the fuel mixture set correctly (assuming it's a pre-catalyst)?


