1986 316 M10 carb

[Rav335uk]

That's the one, "Vow".
Spent loads of time "Relaxing" there for the 2 weeks..

Need to go back soon.

[Automaton]

As the 316 sits in a corner of the garage waiting for its turn to get some attention from the mechanic, I think he has more stress than the President of Egypt, the boot and the various seats are filled with all the imported parts.

Hope that the security is good, would be a shame if someone decides to help themselves to some stuff. Not that it will fit anything for miles.

Newest addition to the parts museum:
CV boot kit from J&R on eBay.co.uk




Can I have that fellow from Wheeler Dealers? I'm sure he can knock off the job in a week.

[Automaton]

The last rubber and plastic bits are here. Thanks to bmwspareshop on eBay.co.uk

Rubber window pieces, the ones that sandwich the glass which are lost on the black granite next to the window,

All inner and outer door sills

M10 carb hose, don't know if this will still be required after fixing the Weber and the K&N bolt on kit, but ordered it anyway. Hate operating in the dark.

Bonnet shock hinge.

[Rich320I]

really like this thread, looking forward to see how it all comes together.

[Automaton]

I am praying. Have sunk in thousands of pounds. And it's still on stands

Send me Ed by Fedex. With all the tools and rig.

[Rich320I]

you'v got a harder job than most bud, due to location, but itl be worth it in the end

[Automaton]

Rich, let's hope so.

In the meanwhile, while I wait for the mechanic to bestow some time to it, wanted to check:

I dislike the exhaust on a 316, the car is too high, the exhaust sticks down like a drum with a pipe sticking out.
Any suggestion what I can do, something that won't make it stick out like a sore thumb?

There is a pic of my car on page one,



and here is another recent pic in another topic.
http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... 83#2641383

[Speedtouch]

Either fit a different back box or a bodykit to conceal it.

[Junglistjed]

I Also own a 316 mate the the exhaust really ruins the look of it, mines even worse as it sticks out at an angle!

[Automaton]

Will have to explore a local, flatter box.
Luckily, there is no performance loss to worry about with a 90BHP engine

Any oval or square examples to refer?

Can't afford a kit. And want to keep things basic for a basic, carbed car. Worst thing would be a kit with no horses under the hood and 100BHP hot hatches having a go at you on the open stretches

[Speedtouch]

You could always go for a side-exit exhaust, emerging from just in front of the rear wheel.

[320Touring]

If the shell has hangers set up like the ones used on the 325i then you could fit an m40 backbox?

you'd need to research it first..

BTW good luck with the work on the car- you're doing well so far!

[Automaton]

Don't know if this fits,
but at least the shape is better than the round ones around.

https://www.jetex.co.uk/jetex/store/ind ... uctId=1162

Will keep it saved as a reference.

Will have to see pics of the side exhausts, unless you are pulling my leg

[Speedtouch]

OK, possibly not the best of examples, but you get the idea - side exit exhaust on a pre-facelift:



It certainly neatens up the rear end nicely.

[Automaton]

Do the exhausts (even in a miniscule way) help in propulsion?

[Speedtouch]

Yes, as long as it's a well-designed system, the shorter length will reduce the restriction and hence give a little better performance.

I had a Morris Minor with 2-litre Fiat twin cam and side-exit exhaust, using two Ford silencers under the driver's floor, and it went very nicely, with a pleasant exhaust note:

[gooner1]

Sorry but as an M10 owner and one that admits the exhaust pipe is not the
prettiest design, the sidepipe solution does nothing aesthetically to improve things for me.

[Automaton]

A new issue has cropped up.

The car is running about. But the mechanical pump at the top of the engine is becoming hot and impedes fuel from reaching, and it stops working till it cools down.

It's this fellow from front and back angles.






Can this be cleaned and repaired? Or is it a replacement candidate?

[Speedtouch]

Sounds like it may need a new diaphragm; remove the cap and take a look.

[Automaton]

I'll do that, just want to avoid putting an electronic fuel pump for the sake of originality.

Also, was reading that as the temperature rises, the old gasket/insulation between engine block and pump starts making the pump hotter, transferring heat from engine and surrounding area, and the hot pump atomizes fuel, making it inoperable, as the pump can only handle liquid fuel and not gas.

[Speedtouch]

It looks as though the pump is a relatively new replacement, as it appears cleaner than the surrounding parts.

You could try wrapping it in heat insulation foam, or fit a heat shield or reflector underneath.

[toby]

That pump looks like a home-made hybrid and not an actual M10 pump. Although after looking at google images of M10 pumps there are quite a few different looking ones.

[Automaton]

I saw at least three designs with similar shapes online. Chances are, with so much changed in the engine bay, this may be something put in to make it work, so I guess will order it via eBay. If there are donor pumps let me know.
Let me ask the good guys who have PMed me.

[Automaton]

1. So, a mini-discovery, the rubber pipe that transfers hot fluids back the the radiator from the engine, was too snug with the pump. As seen in the two pictures above.
We twisted the pipe a bit, so that it doesn't touch the pump, and made a few short runs, no stalling till now. Fingers crossed that it remains that simple a problem to solve.

In other news, the Rupee Vs Pound ratio has gone up, up and away. So no more imports for a while. Will have to make do with what I have.

2. Question for 316 carb owners who have changed their front wheel bearings:Does this really fit the front wheels?
Ref Pic: http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... c&t=242416
My mechanic says it will not, as it protrudes out as compared to the old bearings.
Can anyone share before and after pics?

Have a UUC Magnetic Drain plug, and that doesn't fit too! The list of parts that won't or don't fit is piling up

[Zerotonine]

My god that car looks like a bodged up heap of crap, but I take my hat off to you. You seem to have no issue with getting your hands dirty, and getting stuck in. Keep up the good work!
You have motivated me into sticking with my current project, I was tempted to throw in the towel once I found an awkward bit of rust, but seeing your commitment has inspired me to continue.

Thank you and good luck!

[Automaton]

Thanks, the zone is a great place to be in and around. Inspiration is feeding off from each others efforts.

The Fuse box diagram printouts from the Wiki have helped me sorted out some messy wiring. Grrrmachine will be happy I'm a regular there. Chopped and changed wiring is a bitch. We are trying to sort out the central locking, removing Hyundai and Suzuki bits and refitting the BMW relays and actuators. Easier said than done.

The 'problem-solver' mechanics are hard to come by, all most of them want to do is change parts and move on to the next vehicle. Have to keep an unfazed of-course-it-can-be-solved look about me when I'm at the garage, but it does seem such a waste of time, sometimes.

[Automaton]

Small progress made.

Some more suspension bits fitted. But the trailing arm and the main beam bushes are still pending.


Oil Filter and Distributor Cap and Rotor has been replaced.




One of the ignition plug leads has failed, so looking for a new set.

At least it's running, after the battery was going flat every other day. I figured that the mechanic has fitted a taller battery in, and it was touching the bonnet, creating a drain. The battery tray also is a temp weld on top of the rusted original at the bottom. So looking for a battery in the Boot kit. Have posted in the Wanted section.


The electrician and his sidekick hard at work



The electrician works behind an industrial unit. But he is an old hand with experience with old cars. He has worked really hard, remember that they cannot read English, at best a few words here and there, so the manual I printed out is lying somewhere gathering dust. They also have a irritating habit of not asking if they don't know. Maybe I should take a laptop and show them the work done by all of you on the Zone, that will open their eyes to the clean restoration that is possible with a little more effort.

We discovered Suzuki central locking bits and relays inside the A pillar.

Also the guys who worked on it, simply chopped off the connecting plugs instead of bypassing them. So we have no way to connect the central locking actuators to the main loom. Have posted that in the Wanted section too.


The all-important temperature gauge is working. And the rest has been checked and cleaned. Has dirt and greasy prints all over, just like the rest of the dusty, dirty car. Excuse that.





The replacement electric antenna is connected too.



The mirrors are connected again. The cracked triangular plastic covers replaced.
Any idea on servicing the electric mirrors? They are alive again, but make a horrible noise.


New switch fitted to a used driver's side door handle.



Broken glove box has been replaced.



The lights, AC switch, interior lights are connected again. Ac switch surround is broken, will have to live with that for now, also the gap may not be visible unless you bend and are looking for it. Looks very bad though.



The four speakers are busted, will look for Blaupunkt speakers to match the old skool Blaupunkt cassette radio that we have fitted.

The four electric windows are working again, not very smooth, but maybe using them a few times may loosen them up a bit.
Also waiting for the door cards to be refurbished as is, can't import them. We will cover the holes made when someone screwed them in instead of using plastic grommets. So some Araldite or some black paste will fill in the holes. The windows may work better when I remove the cracked rubber lining besides the glass on the window sill and replace with the new inner and outer rubber strips on all four doors.

[Junglistjed]

i also have an m10 316 mate, what sort of wiring did you need to do to fit the aftermarket HU?

[Automaton]

The head unit there when i bought it was a JVC CD player, we replaced it with a cassette player/radio from Blaupunkt for the sake of original looks, using the existing wiring to splice it. All you need is the connector at the back of the unit to connect with the wiring. Any shop will do it for you.

[Junglistjed]

so an aftermarket should be a straight swap mate? cheers bud

[Automaton]

Here's how it looks. It's not the 1980s cassette player, but I like the way it blends in.

A bit scruffy and used helps. The only thing I want to sort out is that it's projecting out a bit, needs to fit in flush with the panel.

[Automaton]

Right. So it's sunny here, after a fair bit of monsoon the last few months, and we thought, let's see how bad the Sunroof looks like.

So this is the next challenge to tackle.




Prying open the headliner, it's more than I bargained for.




The motor is working. So the one I got from HJG-E30 will be spare, in case we need one later.


The entire tray is shot. Another inspection will happen at this fellow's place once they dismantle the thing.

Any suggestions on how and what one can do to service electric mirrors, they are making a horrible sound. Any tips?

[Speedtouch]

Pry open the ends if possible, carefully pull off the brush pack, and if possible, pull out the rotating assembly inside - you may need to twist it undone, as they usually have a worm gear on the other end.

Then lube up the bearings with engine oil or similar, and carefully reassemble, taking care to ensure that the brushes go back on the commutator correctly.

[Automaton]

Pry open the ends if possible, carefully pull off the brush pack, and if possible, pull out the rotating assembly inside - you may need to twist it undone, as they usually have a worm gear on the other end.

Then lube up the bearings with engine oil or similar, and carefully reassemble, taking care to ensure that the brushes go back on the commutator correctly.

Thanks, that's going to be the weekend chore.

[Automaton]

The evening visit to see progress.

The man tells me that it's not a bolt-on type sunroof tray, but welded on. Hence another trip to the place tomorrow where they will use an angle grinder to saw off the rusted/jammed piece away from the roof.