Waterless Coolant?

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Sykopaf
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Post Mon Jul 01, 2013 10:08 am

I'm trying to keep my M30B35 cool and looking for effective ways to do this. I remember seeing the waterless coolant on a TV show a while back, anyone tried it before? Can you recommend or otherwise?


I flushed the coolant system last night since it had sludge in from the wrong water/coolant mixture. Since it's pretty much clean as a whistle now I'm thinking I might try some of that waterless gubbins.
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Post Mon Jul 01, 2013 10:14 am

This has come up several times, so you can check out responses on other threads but basically it's a waste of money.
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Post Mon Jul 01, 2013 10:15 am

James
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Post Mon Jul 01, 2013 10:25 am

OK, cheers for the replies. Looks like I'll be giving it a miss.

Since it seems to be well documented does anyone have any innovative suggestions on keeping the engine cool? It's got a big rad and fan already. I have some heat wrap that I need to fit to the manifolds (once I've figured out a way to get the steering linkage to clear it better).

Any other suggestions?
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Post Mon Jul 01, 2013 11:47 am

Bonnet vent on the exhaust side? Raise the back of the bonnet a little?
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Post Mon Jul 01, 2013 11:49 am

Water wetter.
But don't expect your gauge to show any less temp, your thermostat makes sure it stays at minimum temperature.
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Post Mon Jul 01, 2013 11:55 am

The problem is it's meant to be a track weapon, but the higher the revs go the higher the temp gauge goes! I can't hoon about in it for fear of cooking the engine, which if I can't find a solution, makes the car pointless.

I wanted to avoid bonnet lifters and vents if poss, keep it as a sleeper and things like that give away what's lurking under the bonnet. But if all else fails.

Water wetter - uhmmmmm, is water not wet enough? lol what's that then?
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Post Mon Jul 01, 2013 12:15 pm

Try fitting a cooler opening thermostat, regular ones open at about 85 degrees C, There are 78 ones around if i remember correctly
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Post Mon Jul 01, 2013 1:01 pm

Sykopaf wrote:The problem is it's meant to be a track weapon, but the higher the revs go the higher the temp gauge goes! I can't hoon about in it for fear of cooking the engine, which if I can't find a solution, makes the car pointless.

I wanted to avoid bonnet lifters and vents if poss, keep it as a sleeper and things like that give away what's lurking under the bonnet. But if all else fails.

Water wetter - uhmmmmm, is water not wet enough? lol what's that then?
I used to race minis. Common fault on those crocks of shite is the water pump cavitates the coolant rather than pump it round. Could be that. We used to use a pully off of a renault which was larger to slow down the pump. Trouble is then it only works when the engine is rattling round at a fair old speed. We also used to just take the thermostats out.
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Post Mon Jul 01, 2013 2:00 pm

http://www.e30m3project.com/e30m3perfor ... wetter.htm

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2757203

It's just one of many surface tension reducers that allow better conduction of heat to the cooling substrate.
Tends to only really help if the inside of the head is a bit cruddy.
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Post Mon Jul 01, 2013 4:06 pm

Cheers for all the responses but I think I may have broken it :(

I disconnected the hose at the bottom of the rad to drain the system, ran cold tap water through it to clear all the sludge out and the topped it up with a 60/40 mix of water/coolant.

It runs fine up to running temp then once the needle is at half, it's sit there for a few seconds then rocket up to the red as the revs go up.

I'm hoping I've done something really stupid thats really easy to fix and it's not a blown head gasket! :(
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Post Mon Jul 01, 2013 4:23 pm

try it without the thermostat fitted

a compression test will show you the health of your head gasket

i hope it's all ok for you mate
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Post Mon Jul 01, 2013 5:00 pm

jimbom30cab wrote:try it without the thermostat fitted

a compression test will show you the health of your head gasket

i hope it's all ok for you mate
Think you're right on with the thermostat, bottom hose and expansion tank are cold, rest of the system piping hot. Maybe some of that sludge has got stuck in it or something.

Will try to pop it off n have a look
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Post Mon Jul 01, 2013 5:24 pm

Was it ok before the back flush?
If so it sounds like you have just washed all the shite into a less convenient place.
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Post Mon Jul 01, 2013 5:29 pm

HairyScreech wrote:Was it ok before the back flush?
If so it sounds like you have just washed all the shite into a less convenient place.
Yes, and I think you might be right. Just got to find the blockage now.

It's not the thermostat, keep looking!
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Post Mon Jul 01, 2013 5:40 pm

If you do a compression test and its all above 150psi it should be ok

Running it without the stat should keep the temp ok as long as you have a decent fan on the rad.

How hard are the pipes when the engine is at normal operating temperature I.e needle at twelve o'clock ?
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Post Mon Jul 01, 2013 5:48 pm

jimbom30cab wrote:If you do a compression test and its all above 150psi it should be ok

Running it without the stat should keep the temp ok as long as you have a decent fan on the rad.

How hard are the pipes when the engine is at normal operating temperature I.e needle at twelve o'clock ?
Dunno, that would mean heating everything up again which means I can't take it apart looking for the problem! I'm pretty sure it's in the rad itself. Assuming coolant goes in at the top and out the bottom, top pipe is hot, bottom cold. Just looking at the system, most of the pipes are pretty wide so it makes sense that the rad is more likely to get blocked up.

Think that means draining the system again, taking the rad off and trying to flush it independently of the rest of the system.

Remember I'm a rank amateur at this stuff, normally let the experts handle it but I'm broke and it's about time I learned anyhow!!
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Post Mon Jul 01, 2013 5:56 pm

I had exactly the same as you, top pipe hot, bottom cold

I took out the thermostat and put it in the kettle to check the stat opened, it did

Then flushed through the rad and block and put it all back together checking the pump was free to turn

I hope it all turns out ok for you
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Post Mon Jul 01, 2013 6:07 pm

jimbom30cab wrote:I had exactly the same as you, top pipe hot, bottom cold

I took out the thermostat and put it in the kettle to check the stat opened, it did

Then flushed through the rad and block and put it all back together checking the pump was free to turn

I hope it all turns out ok for you
It's definitely not the thermostat - there isn't one! Doug did tell me but it doesn't register with me until I've taken it apart with my own hands.

Gonna drain the system again now and flush it piece by piece as you say. Convinced it's a blockage, it's the only thing that makes sense.

Also is there anything you can run through the system to break up that sludge? It's still clinging to the insides of the pipes when I'm taking bits apart, I'm wiping it off but there's obviously bits I can't get to.
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Post Mon Jul 01, 2013 7:26 pm

POW! Fixed :D

It was an airlock, Doug talked me through bleeding it properly and Roberts your fathers brother :)

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Post Tue Jul 02, 2013 12:09 pm

Good! Now, how old is the rad? Because if it's over 100k miles....
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Post Tue Jul 02, 2013 1:37 pm

Morat wrote:Good! Now, how old is the rad? Because if it's over 100k miles....
Not sure tbh. It looks in good nick but it's not off the car originally and it didn't come with the engine, I think it's one Doug had in his garage.

What rad's do other people use? Is there an aftermarket one that's recommended so I don't have to source a 2nd hand one?
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