M30 install into calypso cab. Back on the road :)
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Rav335uk
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Just re-wire it Jim

If you Got "Haters",Then your doing something Right!
CR24v??? Where's it all gone?? LOL
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jimbom30cab
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I will, thanks for the link Rav, I will make one of them up.
My concerns over the engine temperature are mostly as the temp gauge in the car is not working. So now i know the coolant system is all fine and I can re-do the fan wiring, this should get it finished off.
It's annoying I don't know why the fan circuit bust when I started, am wondering if I have unloaded relay issues?
Cheers
My concerns over the engine temperature are mostly as the temp gauge in the car is not working. So now i know the coolant system is all fine and I can re-do the fan wiring, this should get it finished off.
It's annoying I don't know why the fan circuit bust when I started, am wondering if I have unloaded relay issues?
Cheers
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walinsky
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Check the loom on your Brown temp sensor.
I remember contemplating the thought of cutting one of the 2 (!) wires there.
Don't remember if I actually cut it.
The M30 engine loom attaches 2 wires there; whereas a M20 loom only has one.
Will report back later.
I remember contemplating the thought of cutting one of the 2 (!) wires there.
Don't remember if I actually cut it.
The M30 engine loom attaches 2 wires there; whereas a M20 loom only has one.
Will report back later.
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jimbom30cab
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Thanks mate, just had a look . The loom as 2 connectors and the m20 brown sensor fitted has a single pin
I 'll check the right one is fitted and what to do with the other, might need grounding
Soon as I can get in the garage LOL , wife got me cleaning the kitchen floor at the moment .
I 'll check the right one is fitted and what to do with the other, might need grounding
Soon as I can get in the garage LOL , wife got me cleaning the kitchen floor at the moment .
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jimbom30cab
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Ok, checked the blue and brown temp senders with eng running
There is 5v at both sensor connections
The brown connection has 2 there is 5v at one and a very small voltage at the other , about 0.3v
I ran the car until it got hot and the temperature gauge remained in the blue, it flicked up a bit when turning the ignition on but remained in the blue
I made sure the sensor had a good connection to the body there shouldn't be any earth problems,
More testing needed I think
Would it be related that all my warning lights are on except oil pressure and battery discharge?
Am surprised the brake pad light is on as the pads are new and I checked all the connections
Am thinking I could have an instrument supply/earth problem?
I'll take some reading and post back
There is 5v at both sensor connections
The brown connection has 2 there is 5v at one and a very small voltage at the other , about 0.3v
I ran the car until it got hot and the temperature gauge remained in the blue, it flicked up a bit when turning the ignition on but remained in the blue
I made sure the sensor had a good connection to the body there shouldn't be any earth problems,
More testing needed I think
Would it be related that all my warning lights are on except oil pressure and battery discharge?
Am surprised the brake pad light is on as the pads are new and I checked all the connections
Am thinking I could have an instrument supply/earth problem?
I'll take some reading and post back
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walinsky
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Are you sure you are using a e30 brown temp sensor?
Can it be you need to rotate the connector 180 degrees? (don't know from behind my keyboard
)
Can it be you need to rotate the connector 180 degrees? (don't know from behind my keyboard
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jimbom30cab
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right, a bit embarrassing but I sorted out the temp gauge, all works fine now
the penny dropped when starting the tech1 today.
I noticed when I turned the ignition on the needle jumped a little bit to the blue, then as I drove it the needle rose. looking at the circuit diagram this is what should happen and then as the coolant gets hot the resistance decreases and the balances the 3 resistors. The sender side of the resistance bridge must have not therefore changed as it warms. , the supply was good and the sender worked ok so therefore it must be a bad earth.
tested the body of the sender to earth and it was open circuit.
ok so i'm going to look a knob now but if helps anyone in the future here are the 2 lessons I have learned:
1. when powder coating assume everything is now fully insulated (my temp sender was as the housing was powder coated and therefore insulated to the engine).
2. if something electrical doesn't work, test the whole circuit for continuity first.
so
1. gearbox sorted
2. coolant flowing and bleed
3. Loom changed
4. all instruments now work
just need to sort out the fan, check everything is tight and then it's test drive time
oh, also had a right result today
rang Adrian Flux as my insurance is due for re-new
fully comp agreed policy was costing £150 with the m40
explained all the mods to them and explained I have fitted 325 suspension and brakes, new quote was £190......RESULT !!!
the penny dropped when starting the tech1 today.
I noticed when I turned the ignition on the needle jumped a little bit to the blue, then as I drove it the needle rose. looking at the circuit diagram this is what should happen and then as the coolant gets hot the resistance decreases and the balances the 3 resistors. The sender side of the resistance bridge must have not therefore changed as it warms. , the supply was good and the sender worked ok so therefore it must be a bad earth.
tested the body of the sender to earth and it was open circuit.
ok so i'm going to look a knob now but if helps anyone in the future here are the 2 lessons I have learned:
1. when powder coating assume everything is now fully insulated (my temp sender was as the housing was powder coated and therefore insulated to the engine).
2. if something electrical doesn't work, test the whole circuit for continuity first.
so
1. gearbox sorted
2. coolant flowing and bleed
3. Loom changed
4. all instruments now work
just need to sort out the fan, check everything is tight and then it's test drive time
oh, also had a right result today
rang Adrian Flux as my insurance is due for re-new
fully comp agreed policy was costing £150 with the m40
explained all the mods to them and explained I have fitted 325 suspension and brakes, new quote was £190......RESULT !!!
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walinsky
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Good work!
Now build yourself a decent fan loom!
It's just 5 wires running from your fusebox to the front of the car.
Now build yourself a decent fan loom!
It's just 5 wires running from your fusebox to the front of the car.
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jimbom30cab
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Loom done
popped out this afternoon with the kids, you know made it look like I was giving the wife a break and all that.
bought some heat shrink, connectors, cable and used a spare relay I had.
followed this (thanks Rav)
the relay is hidden under the strut tower strengthening bits
it means the fan is always on so if I park up after a "hot" drive the fan will stay on until the engine has cooled.

works a treat
just need to tidy away all the cables now
i'm convinced it's my car electrics playing up as I've tested the loom I had and there is nothing wrong at all with it, in fact it's brilliant compared to my knock up version.
popped out this afternoon with the kids, you know made it look like I was giving the wife a break and all that.
bought some heat shrink, connectors, cable and used a spare relay I had.
followed this (thanks Rav)
the relay is hidden under the strut tower strengthening bits
it means the fan is always on so if I park up after a "hot" drive the fan will stay on until the engine has cooled.

works a treat
just need to tidy away all the cables now
i'm convinced it's my car electrics playing up as I've tested the loom I had and there is nothing wrong at all with it, in fact it's brilliant compared to my knock up version.
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ajay
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That will work, but i would not have my fan relay coil (control circuit)on the same fuse as my fan (high power 30a) circuit, unless my thermostst/ temp sensor cable's csa and sensor have a current carrying capacity equal to 30a!
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jimbom30cab
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Yer all the cables are the same big chunky size. 15A fuse fitted. Works ok but not a massive airflow as its an ebay special fan.
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jimbom30cab
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Well, I fixed the exhaust up a bit as it was very low and now it's almost flush With the floor pan.
Got her out the garage and thought sod it, lets go for a little test drive

Wow, it went well, revved the whole range no problem, brakes and clutch all fine
However !
It's got a miss-fire ! Can't believe it !
Any tips where to start.?
Cheers
Got her out the garage and thought sod it, lets go for a little test drive

Wow, it went well, revved the whole range no problem, brakes and clutch all fine
However !
It's got a miss-fire ! Can't believe it !
Any tips where to start.?
Cheers
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Rav335uk
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Plugs??

If you Got "Haters",Then your doing something Right!
CR24v??? Where's it all gone?? LOL
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TPS
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Try the simple stuff first Jim,Plugs as Rav. suggested.

1991 325i Touring Alpine White II
1994 318i Touring Sterling Silver
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jimbom30cab
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New, but I'll change em anyway as I have some new spares
I will check all the leads are tight and test the resistance of leads.
I have a spare coil also I can fit
The dizzy cap and rotor arm are re-used from the donor car as they looked in good condition, I just have given the contacts a light rib with fine we and dry paper and re-used them.
Also have a spare CPS which I could fit and test, I'll make sure the gap is correct also.
have spare ECU also
Can't think of much else to do other than that
I will check all the leads are tight and test the resistance of leads.
I have a spare coil also I can fit
The dizzy cap and rotor arm are re-used from the donor car as they looked in good condition, I just have given the contacts a light rib with fine we and dry paper and re-used them.
Also have a spare CPS which I could fit and test, I'll make sure the gap is correct also.
have spare ECU also
Can't think of much else to do other than that
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Rav335uk
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Plug gapping??

If you Got "Haters",Then your doing something Right!
CR24v??? Where's it all gone?? LOL
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jimbom30cab
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Will chech mate but pretty sure they were all set when I installed them
Just read Lee's thread and saw it was an AFM causing his miss fires
I was wondering if it is a fuel problem as my car originally was a 318i ?
Just read Lee's thread and saw it was an AFM causing his miss fires
I was wondering if it is a fuel problem as my car originally was a 318i ?
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mcbonio
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Is it a misfire at medium to high revs or is it at idle too? I've found that a faulty dizzy cap won't miss at low revs but will at high. But a dodgy HT lead will miss fire at all engine speeds.
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jimbom30cab
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I think it's at all revs mate although not as apparent at all at idle in fact it seems fine at idle
When I open the throttle, the revs drop loads like its stalling then it picks up again
Hard to describe but I would perhaps say is was more asthmatic then miss fire, it just felts very flat, vibrated a lot and spluttered when under power
Thanks
When I open the throttle, the revs drop loads like its stalling then it picks up again
Hard to describe but I would perhaps say is was more asthmatic then miss fire, it just felts very flat, vibrated a lot and spluttered when under power
Thanks
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mcbonio
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Hmm sounds like a crap AFM then.
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jimbom30cab
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Bugger I don't have a spare
Anyone got one I can fit and test to see if it makes a difference?
Anyone got one I can fit and test to see if it makes a difference?
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leeparkes
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My AFM wasnt a duff it just needed calibrating, the spring on the flap was too tight (or loose) cant remember which but it was running lean at the top end, problem is if you buy another AFM you might still have the same problem, AFM working fine just set up wrong.
Cypriotgeeza wrote:I done both my mates in my old 318is
felt so proud,even tried it with a E30 325i and got put in my place..
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mcbonio
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Ah yeah good point Lee, I had issues with mine now I recall.! It ran really rich to the point my clothes smelled of soot after driving it. Found out some bell end had screwed the air screw in all the way.!
Perhaps it's something you can investigate Jim? You will need a co2 analyzer to do it I think.!
Perhaps it's something you can investigate Jim? You will need a co2 analyzer to do it I think.!
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jimbom30cab
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Cool, thanks guys will look into it 
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jimbom30cab
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Glad to report the miss fire has gone and it now sounds very smoooooooooth. The spark plug on cylinder 3 wasn't sparking, quick change, flash her up and dead smooth 
Bonnet fitted also and took her for a little drive
What a pleasure to drive, effortless power, very torquey
Last few things to sort out now
I need to sort out the ecu location, it will be really tight to fit in the original position as the wiring harness is much shorter.
Bonnet fitted also and took her for a little drive
What a pleasure to drive, effortless power, very torquey
Last few things to sort out now
I need to sort out the ecu location, it will be really tight to fit in the original position as the wiring harness is much shorter.
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Rav335uk
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Turn ther ECU 180 degrees in the origional location, that's how I fitted mine.
An told you, Plugs
An told you, Plugs

If you Got "Haters",Then your doing something Right!
CR24v??? Where's it all gone?? LOL
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mcbonio
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Do we get any driving videos then Jim?? 
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jimbom30cab
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Yer you guys were right, legends
I need to drain the water and re fill with coolant, change a hose and get the power steering done and ECU fitted
Pics and vid to follow
Might try to get the MOT booked for 12th July and a RR session straight after
I need to drain the water and re fill with coolant, change a hose and get the power steering done and ECU fitted
Pics and vid to follow
Might try to get the MOT booked for 12th July and a RR session straight after
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Bristol_Jer
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Good work Jim, car's looking great! 
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gooner1
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That do look good. 

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jimbom30cab
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Thanks guys 
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TPS
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jimbom30cab
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Thanks Phil, let me know which day you want to pick up the engine crane and see you on Saturday mate
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mcbonio
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Lovely stuff.!! You gonna take that bungee cord off now? 






