M30 install into calypso cab. Back on the road :)

[jimbom30cab]

Makes sense to then, thanks Rav

[jimbom30cab]

Today is a good day

The old turd is all back together and the gear selection all works perfect. The short shift from the Z3 feels nice.

I'm in serious poo with her in doors for the unexpected £££ spent though

So bits left to do:

Ecu wiring tidy up and bulkhead grommet
Final torque on the cylinder head bolts
test the electric fan cuts in when it should
Fit bonnet
Coolant might need longer upper rad pipe
Give it a run and hopefully this might sort out the high idle
Change suspension springs and shocks - do you think a set of 325i boge turbos should be ok?
Sort out oil pressure light which is stuck on at half brightness
change clocks to 6 pot clocks

then we're good for the MOT

[Rav335uk]

Oil pressure light half glowing??
Is that on idle, ??
If so, new sensor.

[jimbom30cab]

It's on all the time, it goes from full to half brightness when the engine starts.

There is plenty of oil being pumped about so I am confident it's an indication problem

just got to pop out so I will have a look this eve when kids in bed.


Thanks

[Rav335uk]

It did it on mine, did a Oil Pressure test, showed up all fine, changed switch, and hey presto, no light

[jimbom30cab]

ace, hope mine is the same. Phil (TPS) is coming over on sunday with his oil pressure tester. Might just pop one on from the spare M20 lump I have and see if that works first.

[jimbom30cab]

Rav, do I need to fit a M20 brown temp sensor ?? To replace the M30 one ?

Thanks

[Rav335uk]

Yes Jim.

[jimbom30cab]

Great, that old m20 lump at the back of the garage is coming in very useful

[jimbom30cab]

Quick update, been really busy with it all actually but still fixing snags.

Spent ages and ages trying to sort out the oil pressure light problems. Even with a new working switch, the previous 3 were no good, the oil pressure light is still on

A few zone legends had a look at it over the weekend and said it sounded ok but I was still having this nagging doubt that I might have genuine oil pressure problems.

So I took the oil pressure switch out, put a few rags around the hole in the cylinder head and with the torch ready I flashed her up.

OMG this full bore oil pressure snake went over the car and hit the garage shelves about 4 foot away, must have been about a pint every 3 seconds, foooooook, so I ran round and switched it off quick. Don't think there is any oil pressure problems with this then.

So, I'm still getting 0volts when running on the the oil pressure switch supply and as my m30 loom is looking really mullered now, I'm going to swap it for another factory fresh one.

The spare has the x25 plug so I've done some research and worked out the pin swap exercise for the x20 plug , I'll do this this week.

I hope this will restore the electrical gremlins I have. It should do as the body loom has not been touched.

Also, I fitted new boge turbo shocks all round and changed the springs to 325i standard springs.

So it's literally, new engine loom and then finishing off jobs left to do now like fit the bonnet and add the PS fluid etc etc

[jimbom30cab]

Thanks to Lee sending me a really nice e34 loom, I swapped the x25 socket for an x20 plug and now the loom is ready to fit

all done









I followed the list that BristolJer produced which worked well

[jimbom30cab]

New loom in

Engine runs

Oil light out

GET IN THERE

This baby is on the road

x 1000000000000

[Rav335uk]

Good work Jim.

[jimbom30cab]

Big thank you to everyone who helped me with sorting out these little problems, thanks very very much

so this eve I tidied up the wiring:


In the below pic I decided to extend the red live wire that goes from the relays to the battery +ve terminal. This way I can pop all the relays and wiring in the cabin under the dash.

That was the only mod to the wiring loom, the bulkhead gasket is from e bay.












And finished off

[jimbom30cab]

I think I have a problem with the coolant flow ??

The pipe you can see above which goes to the top of the rad gets hot, as does the top of the rad.. The pipe that goes to the bottom of the rad and the bottom of the radiator its self stays cold. It just doesn't seem to have any flow.

Its been vacuum filled and I've cracked the bleed screw to check its bled properly.

Any ideas?

[Rav335uk]

Thermostat

[jimbom30cab]

ok, that's annoying, its brand new.

do you drill a little hole in them, sure I've read somewhere its a good idea.

ta

[Rav335uk]

Yes, the hole is about 3mm, drilled at the top of the thermostat

[jimbom30cab]

thanks, about where I have put the blue dot, would that do

i'm trying to find a system drawing so I can work out the water flow through the system, would you have one Rav?

[Rav335uk]

Yes to the stat drawing.

An No jim, never seen one.

[zaust]

when you look at the thermostat there is a small arrow stamped on it to show which way up it goes. Drill the 3mm hole through the arrow.

Personally i'd look for the flow problem rather than masking it. If the bottom of the rad is not getting hot then thats the first place to look. new rads can swell inside and stop flow.

[mcbonio]

Stellar work on the loom Jim, perseverance will get you everywhere.!

Sounds like your thermostat is stuck shut, test it in boiling water. New cheap thermostats (not saying yours is) have been known to fail within a very short amount of time. You got the old one laying about still to eliminate the new one as failed?

[jimbom30cab]

Yer I'll change the stat and see If its better

It does seem like a flow problem though so I might run the engine with the stat removed and check everything has an even ish temp.

At the mo, the bottom of the rad is stone cold and the upper pipework very hot. I only ran it for a short time.

[leeparkes]

My money is on the stat, as said test it in a bowl of water.

Btw on the loom and getting it running right.

[mcbonio]

Any joy on the stat Jim?

[jimbom30cab]

yes mate, just got back inside

I dug out the old stat which I knew worked and tested it in boiling water, opened perfectly so I fitted that one

then tried to bleed the system and noticed when I removed one of the sensors which are straight after the pump there was no flow coming out. see below where - top left where I have written "removed"







so had a chat with the M30 God and to us both it seemed like there was no flow. It really did seem this was the case as I could remove stuff and get no coolant leak out.

So I took off the pump, nice easy job actually, not the nightmare I was thinking it would be.

This one was brand new in the box from a Zoner.



I also found the one which was on the engine when I got it.





whilst the pump was off I got the garden hose out and flushed through the block and rad and got a good flow out, certainly no blockages.

So the pump that came off looks perfect, span lovely, nothing loose, all perfect.........then I noticed a couple of holes in the top which the original BMW pump doesn't have. They don't seem to be connected to the pump bowl though which was my initial thought but as the passage way is all hidden inside its hard to be sure, I ran water through and it looked ok

can you see the 2 holes in it




I really thought this could be it, but I doubt it.

so back to square one really which is put it all back together and bleed again.

i'll use the tested stat and pump that came with the car, I know they both work.

then bleed, bleed, bleed

in theory it should all then work fine

i'm just a bit nervous about overheating the engine

[mcbonio]

I feel for you Jim, just as you nail one issue another rears it's ugly head.! Bah.

[jimbom30cab]

thanks mate, getting there ....and enjoying it also.

I wasn't going to mention that the alternator squeels !!!

[walinsky]

Rav,

closer look on Realoem states:

e34 clutch slave cylinder = 12 OUTPUT CYLINDER CLUTCH D=22,20MM

e28 clutch slave cylinder = 14 OUTPUT CYLINDER CLUTCH D=20,64MM

so i'm guessing the 20mm and 64mm could be the travel distance of the piston

and for some reason (maybe the flywheel is a lot thinner on the e28) that the piston has to therefore travel further than the e34(with the thicker dual mass fly)

sounds possible would you think

i'm thinking I might have to go back to the garage slightly and let them know I gave them the wrong slave cylinder

what do you think Rav?

Gah - I totally missed this one.
D=20,64mm means the cylinder diameter is 20,64mm.
The good news is that the cylinder you need on a E28 gearbox is the same one as used on e21's, e30's, e12's, e24's, Z1 so it can be sourced quite easily.
The bad news is E34 is not in that list indeed, so you'll prolly have an embarrassing moment at the garage...

[walinsky]

Really sorry you have these problems bleeding your system.
As far as I can remember bleeding mine felt like a 10 minute job.
Only things I made sure of:
- set heater core controls to full heat
- make sure all your hoses will flow, including the overflow tube from your radiator
- remove the bleed screw on top of your thermostat housing
- hold the expansion tank as high as the connecting hose will allow you (disconnect the overflow tube from your expansion tank if this gives you more room)
- fill expansion tank until coolant comes out of your thermostat housing without bubbles
- fit bleedscrew in thermostat housing
- lower expansion tank and attach overflow tube from radiator
- start engine; and wait until thermostat opens. You can't miss the moment, as the coolant level will drop in your expansion tank
- keep adding coolant until the overflow tube spits steadily
- put cap on coolant bottle (the system will start building pressure now)
- check a few times if opening the bleed screw doesn't give you any more air bubbles

that should be it
I checked a few times (weeks) after first bleeding the first time if there was any air left by the bleed screw - but never saw any air bubbles.

[jimbom30cab]

Thanks Walinsky, I'll fit the water pump back on and do exactly your procedure this a afternoon

Hope it works

Thanks

[jimbom30cab]

So I fitted the old pump back on, I know this is ok, topped up the system and bleed it as best I couple using all the tricks. Seemed to go ok but have a little leak where the thermostat housing bolts on.

The coolant is flowing round fine and with the stat out the rad gets hot all round. I does get very hot very quick though, are these m30 engines really hot?

Thought I better test the electric fan, worked perfect and the switch in the kettle boiling worked perfect also.

Unfortunately I had th fan switch connections bridged so I could keep the fan on whilst bleeding. Then I turned the engine on and the fan stopped. Bridging the connections doesn't work, the relay doesn't click and the fuse is not blown. I changed the fuse and relay just incase and tested the fan worked with a 12v supply, all is fine.

So I'm not sure if this the case why that would happen.

I can only think that starting the engine burnt through the wires maybe? Odd that the fuse was ok, it was a 15a fuse.

So zero steps forward and one step back today.

I'm seriously thinking if jacking it in to be honest.

Also, there still is no indication working on the right side of the dash, the temperature dial never moves past cold.

I think I'm getting out my depth now and am just not sure how to get this finished off.

[mcbonio]

Fan fuse should be 30a if it's live comes direct from battery?

[walinsky]

Did you burn the fuse that feeds the fan relay through the temp switch when bridging?

[jimbom30cab]

Fuses seems ok tbh, I'll disconnect the wiring from the bottom of the fuse box and check for continuity ASAP