Cutting Handbrake Cables

[Grrrmachine]

I've taken the rear beam off, but my trailing arms are still attached. Amazingly, I've never taken the cables off before, so I'm not really looking forward to it.

First off, the allen bolt on the disc is a bit reluctant to move, and secondly I haven't got around to dropping all the heatshielding around the prop. Finally, the ferrules are rusted to hell around the pipes above the fuel tank, so the cables are going to get ruined in removal anyway.

So is there any conceivable problem with me getting the grinder out and slicing through the handbrake cables, just to get the trailing arms away from the car?

[hennared323i]

As long as you have replacement ones to hand no.

Of course you could release them from the handbrake lever and pull them out while removing the trailing arms

[Brianmoooore]

As long as you have replacement ones to hand no.

Of course you could release them from the handbrake lever and pull them out while removing the trailing arms

The inners won't come out unless they are cut, and you will still be left with the problem of removing the outer from the extension tube under the car.

[milescook]

Handbrake cables are reasonable from ecp too.

[Grrrmachine]

I've got the new cables on order, I'm just wondering what the simplest way is to get the old ones out considering they're going to be destroyed. I don't want to risk yanking them so hard that the guide tubes break away from the car.

[Motorhole]

Guide tubes are actually pretty solid, provided they're not frilly with rust. I did it the other way - removed the cables at the hub end and got all the beam etc out of the way before tackling the guide tubes. Lots of cleaning up, lots of penetrating fluid, lots of patience and lots of jimmying with a small flat-blade screwdriver pulled mine free from the tubes.

[DanThe]

Mole grips and a 10mm ratchet spanner are all you need for this job

[Grrrmachine]

Got the disc off, then sliced the cable. Now I've got the trailing arm away from the car and was able to remove the handbrake mechanism without removing the shoes, and then hammered the rusty ferule out via a bolt-hole in the hub.

I then went under the car with the mole grips to get the rest out, but I haven't undone the cable from the handle yet. Is that done from inside the car, or underneath?

[milescook]

A nut on each side of the handle is by the looks of it, the last thing keeping the cables attached - lift up the handbrake cover and you'll see them.

[bmw9818]

Best way to get the handbrake cable out of the guide tube is, find where its seated, and cut/score with a hacksaw, then just get some pliers and it will literally pull out in a few shimmys,

i was fucking about for ages trying to get it out with mole grips etc for ages, the next one took me a few minutes to remove,

[Grrrmachine]

Yep, handbrake cover off, grabbed the nut and pulled, and the whole metal core of the cable slid out

Then back under the car with the molegrips, and unwound the metal coil sleeve until it twisted out of the tubes. Only issue remaining is that the nylon inner sleeve seems to be stuck in the tube on one side, but I'm sure I can sort that.

In another development, the backplate had rusted on one side, allowing the retaining pin for one shoe to come loose. That shoe was f*cked and the pin mullered, so I've got a set of Z3 shoes on order to test Brian's theory about a firmer handbrake. I just need to find some of those top-hat washers in Poland now. Apparently they're standard on Daewoo Tico brake setups...