325 cabby over running rich

[Brianmoooore]

You also shouldn't have gone anywhere near the blue sensor at all, until the results at the ECU plug have been evaluated. The whole idea, with any electrical testing, is not to disturb what you suspect to be faulty, before you have proven it to be faulty, in case disturbing it provides a cure, only for the fault to return at a later date.

Test results from the ECU plug, please!

[gingerrusta]

With the new sensor fitted ? I will have to wait until tomorrow as will need it 100% cold reading ?
Will need to do warm reading as well ?

[Brianmoooore]

Yes, yes and yes. Full engine temperature, not warm.

[gingerrusta]

Full as in when the fan kicks in ?

Could the ecu maybe still think its got the old sensor in ?

[gingerrusta]

Tested the following tonight
Following settings on multimeter
In this order
2000k
200k
20k
2000>+
200

Ecu plug ( not ecu lol )
Cold
004
03.1
3.07
1
1

Hot
000
00.3
0.26
255
1

Blue temp sensor ( not plug )
Cold
003
03.0
3.06
1
1

Hot
000
00.3
0.26
261
1

When I first started her up she ticked over ok for a while and then the revs
Started dying and she cut out.
To keep her running I had to keep my foot on the accelerator to give her some revs

What's the diagnosis mr Brian moooore a˜Š

[gingerrusta]

On my multimeter 1 comes up with anything greater than 2000

[gingerrusta]

These readings were done yesterday before I cleaned up the throttle body mr Brian moooore

[gingerrusta]

Tested the following tonight
Following settings on multimeter
In this order
2000k
200k
20k
2000>+
200

Ecu plug ( not ecu lol )
Cold
004
03.1
3.07
1
1

Hot
000
00.3
0.26
255
1

Blue temp sensor ( not plug )
Cold
003
03.0
3.06
1
1

Hot
000
00.3
0.26
261
1

When I first started her up she ticked over ok for a while and then the revs
Started dying and she cut out.
To keep her running I had to keep my foot on the accelerator to give her some revs

What's the diagnosis mr Brian moooore a˜Š

[Brianmoooore]

Those results look to be in the ball park at both the ECU and the sensor itself, so it looks like the 'blue sensor' approach to your problem might be a red herring, although what you are describing still sounds like a classic blue temp sensor problem, although remember of course, I can't actually see or hear the car!
When did the car last run properly? Before you replaced all the service parts? Are the plugs the correct ones?
What happens if you start and run the engine up to temperature with the blue sensor unplugged? Any difference?

[gingerrusta]

The car hasn't been run daily for a while.
I have literally just been out for a drive in her along a motorway and back through my town. She started up ticking over around 700- 800 rpm.
When driving along when I took my foot off the accelerator I noticed she returned to about 600-700 rpm when travelling around 30mph. She pulls well but when pulling up to a stop its as if it doesn't hold enough revs and cuts out. When restarting it won't hold enough revs on tick over unless you get driving again.
This is an auto if that makes any difference ?

[gingerrusta]

The plugs are ngk 's and I haven't run the car with the blue temp in plugged. Is that worth doing ?

[gingerrusta]

The plugs are ngk 's and I haven't run the car with the blue temp in plugged. Is that worth doing ?

Unplugged

[Brianmoooore]

Switchable auto or ordinary (rotary knob on the rear centre console or not)?

[gingerrusta]

Switchable

[gingerrusta]

It's a 1990 preface lift

[gingerrusta]

What you thinking Brian moooore ?

[gingerrusta]

I am bamboozalled now. What do I try next ? It seems now its only the idle that's the problem .

[Brianmoooore]

Time to check out that the throttle position switch is working properly.
Details in the wiki, but yours is complicated by your car having a six pin switch assembly, with three extra pins for a potentiometer for the gearbox ECU.
Just ignore the three pins for that, and test the two switches connected to the other three pins.

[gingerrusta]

Could you give me the link please ? Sorry to sound like a novice

[gingerrusta]

I have unbolted the throttle body and have got to the plug. Now looking at it it has 6 pins in a circle. If looking at it on the car going on a clockwise fashion I get the following reading on
Pins 1 - 2
Reading of 1

Pins 1- 3
Reading of 000

All others read 1
I.e
Pins 1/4
Pins 1/5
Pins 1/6

Above readings are all on the switch itself

[gingerrusta]

I have unbolted the throttle body and have got to the plug. Now looking at it it has 6 pins in a circle. If looking at it on the car going on a clockwise fashion I get the following reading on
Pins 1 - 2
Reading of 1

Pins 1- 3
Reading of 000

All others read 1
I.e
Pins 1/4
Pins 1/5
Pins 1/6

Above readings are all on the switch itself

[gingerrusta]

[gingerrusta]

[gingerrusta]

Is it worth doing this below?

Removing and cleaning a TPS is easy, and should be cleaned with Contact Cleaner. It can also be good to drill a 1- or 2mm hole right into the middle of the TPS as well, which will allow oil from the Throttle Body to drain out without blocking the TPS in future.

One thing I did find was that when I put it all back together and started the car up it did seem to hold the idle better for a bit but then returned to cutting out.

[gingerrusta]

Is the 320 throttle position switch the same as a 325 ? I could try another one as I have some on another engine ?

[Brianmoooore]

320 and 325 TPS are the same as long as they are both from switchable autos. The 'ordinary' TPS just has three pins and a different plug.
You've dived in again, haven't you! I said test it, not remove it. You've disturbed it's adjustment, so now we'll never know if it was working or not, was set up correctly, or indicated if the throttle stop had been played with.
You only appear to have tested it with the throttle closed. What about the part throttle and wide open readings?
Did you adjust it properly when you refitted it?

[gingerrusta]

I have indeed dived in. When I checked it the throttle body was closed. To test it part open and wide I take you do the same reading as I did with it closed? It only came up with a reading on pins 1/3 as the others just came up the same. When I put the switch back I left the dirt markings of where the sensor sat so it would go back in the same position it came off.
Apart from not taking it off like I have done is there anything else I should do?

As I found when I drove her she pulls like a train and apart from the idle seems to be spot on.

[gingerrusta]

The throttle body screw which you can adjust has not been messed with

[gingerrusta]

When you say did I adjust it do you mean did I put it back in the same position ?

[gingerrusta]

I did see on the tps the 2 screens holding it on has yellow paint marked on them.
Is this like this from factory ?

[gingerrusta]

Screws

[gingerrusta]

What to do ?

[Brianmoooore]

Time to check out that the throttle position switch is working properly.
Details in the wiki, but yours is complicated by your car having a six pin switch assembly, with three extra pins for a potentiometer for the gearbox ECU.
Just ignore the three pins for that, and test the two switches connected to the other three pins.

[gingerrusta]

So just to confirm

I need to test the sensor on pins 1/3 with it still bolted to the throttle body
Test it closed as it sits
Test it half open
Test it fully open

[Brianmoooore]

Pins 1, 2 and 3. See wiki.