LOCK PROBLEM

[polsta]

i seem to have a bit of a problem with the drivers side lock, im sure its not the actual barrel/key, its more to do with the lock pin and the connecting rods and the actual lock unit right in the back and pin to solenoid

ive had it all apart today, the whole lot right out, cleaned it all, the actual unit was a bit grubby but felt ok/good after, all day on and off ive tried, it just doesnt seem to want to work properly and cant put my finger on where the problem is

key will lock it/central lock when turning fully left so key slot is flat - , is that how it should work ? in the deadlock position

but then when you open it ,the lock opens but the central locking will not activate/unlock all the doors, and when you move pin up/down to activate the locking, it just seems a bit ropey and sometimes sticks , the whole lot just seems a bit duff , as said ive had it all out, had a good look at it, fiddled and fiddled , and had to walk away in the end

passenger side pulling the pin up and down and looking at the whole lot in there, all seems to operate with ease and is fine, looking right at the mechanism on drivers side as you pull/push the pin its not the same

anyone got any ideas or had this before ?

[polsta]

anyone ?

having a look through google and the wiki, im still none wiser on what to check, could it be the micro switch ? how do i test it or the actuator to see exact where the fault lies ? i didnt realise the door actuator had to be a certain color white/red , il check to see what color it is tomorrow


whats the soloution if it is the microswitch ? a new one or the lock if its not catching it to "unlock" ? i remember the micoswitch working when pressed by hand before fitted

if the actuator is the wrong one, or faulty, would the pushing/pulling the pin still work the central locking ? would/should that work with the actuator removed ?

i really dont know where to start or what process/(of elimiation) to follow to find the exact problem

i really didnt need this nightmare right now

[greg124]

It could be a problem with the central locking control module, which normally lives in the cavity behind the speaker in the passenger footwell. If water has got into this and corrodes the connections it can cause all sorts of problems with the central locking.

Other than that, I can supply a replacement solenoid or microswitch if you think that would help.

[polsta]

its not that, if i manualy push/pull the solenoid it all works , rains stopped play today, the micro switch seems find operating via being pressed, god knows whats up with the thing

[daimlerman]

You have done the red/black wire mod,hav'nt you?

When you had the latch out of the door jamb,you did oil it and work it by hand until it was smooth and light in operation,then re-oiled it,did'nt you?

[Brianmoooore]

Remove the two screws holding the lock motor in place, and move it up and down. This should lock and unlock all the locks, depending on which way you move it.

[polsta]

You have done the red/black wire mod,hav'nt you?

When you had the latch out of the door jamb,you did oil it and work it by hand until it was smooth and light in operation,then re-oiled it,did'nt you?

not checked the red/black mod yet, il check tomorrow if its not raining

but- yes worked smooth and re oiled everything, it all felt good

[polsta]

Remove the two screws holding the lock motor in place, and move it up and down. This should lock and unlock all the locks, depending on which way you move it.

yes i know, i was fiddling with the ajustment of it

problem seems to be this...

if i turn key and lock it locks, activates central , if i unlock it will unlock the lock, but not activate central

if i "push/pull" the door pin, it is iffy, it all looks like its in place properly, ive had it all out the whole lot, looked at it all, re fitted it all

if i put hand in and move the top of the actuator motor, it works all the locking fine and all feels/sounds ok

its something in the mechanisms between the lock and actuator, nothings bent or anything , it just doesnt seem to want to have it and work properly

you can really notice the difference in pushing/pulling the pin looking at the pas side, then compared to the drivers side

[Brianmoooore]

You can get problems like this if there's too much free play in the linkage, resulting in the lock motor arm not being pushed or pulled far enough to activate the electrics.
That's why I want you to confirm as in my last post.

[polsta]

ok brian il check that tomorrow, off top of head i dont think it locked/unlocked them all just by moving the lock up and down with screws loosened, but il re check, it definatly did when putting hand in and moving it, but from what you say there it sounds like that could be the problem too much free play, but how do you fix that ???? its all lined up and fitted properly and the rods all look and seem ok, nothing feels loose or wrong, but then it is the drivers side on a 27 year old car, but it does feel like its not actualy working properly to activate the actuator

also a question- why is the difference between the actual lock barrels on the inside ? ie- if your looking right inside as you turn the key in the lock at the back of it, the "turn pin" type bit, that catches on the lock, on pass side is rigid i thing, but the drivers side seems to have play and turn in it it looks like it operates differently like that pin bit has another joint in it sort of thing, why is that ?

and the red /black wire mod from wat i remember doing it before, is it just taking all the red/black wires in the speaker hole bit, and cutting and just doing them together ?

[daimlerman]

and the red /black wire mod from wat i remember doing it before, is it just taking all the red/black wires in the speaker hole bit, and cutting and just doing them together ?

That's right,but it's important to join the wires from the loom,not the two going into the door!

[Brianmoooore]

And don't include the red/brown!
Driver's side lock barrel has a lock/dead lock option. Passenger side doesn't.

[polsta]

ok il check tomorrow got a bit side tracked today, although.... i had a look at it again, i think it possibly may be the lock barrel

stupidly...i was trying the pin as above,with the door open with it shut, ive ajusted the actuator and it works great, it all seems fine now apart from locking/unlocking with the key, its iffy

it seems the actual "hook" part of the barrel that goes around inside and connects to the lock bit - if you turn the key it seems like it doesnt catch properly/is weak or the spring bit on the top moves sort of thing, its hard to explain

so question is- does a lock re build kit include all that ? or is it just the internal key identify bits ?

[Brianmoooore]

Main wear is usually on the L shaped alloy bit at the rear. This is included in the kit.

[polsta]

excellent , sounds like thats whats at fault then

i got the boot solenoid in today and put the boot lock back in, all the actuators are correctly working now i think

but, for some reason the fob remote central locking isnt working properly yet, although it seems to when inside the car ? any ideas ? but there are a couple of sensors and things not plugged in to the alarm at the moment

il order the lock kit up tomorrow with a new key aswell

another lock issue ive found,although was late in the day and didnt properly investigate it- the boot lock

when i close the boot, the boot locks, and it wont open by pushing the button in, you have to put the key in and unlock it again, thats not normal operation is it ? although been such a long time since i drove an e30 around ive found ive forgotten little bits like that and am a bit rusty

and the turning of the kay in the boot lock,seems a tad iffy , i really need another car along side to compare, ikt might just be me, and POW the boot seems to fly up real fast like an ejector seat

how exactly should the boot lock operate ? ie the turns etc