Replacing Trans Fluid ? Hard to put into R 1st and 2nd ?
Moderator: martauto
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Shiz
- E30 Zone Newbie

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Hi guys, 318 M40 with a 178,000 on it.. Recently changed the clutch slave and master cylinder with new fluid. Clutch is really tight now and seems to be working the best, however in the cold mornings selecting reverse, 1st and 2nd can be a real nightmare, i.e. stirring a bowl of rocks. Ive done a view searches and it probs is the transmission fluid would need changed, id say it hasn't been done in a brave while, and considering the mileage as well. Has anyone had similar experience before that they could share their opinion. Also is there any threads on the wiki on how to change the trans fluid ? ive had a look and seem to be in no luck. Any help appreciated guys. Thanks
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capnmchl
- E30 Zone Camper

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As you say it's when it's cold, then changing the oil is probably the best and cheapest route to go down first.
To change it, there's a filler bung halfway up the gearbox on the drivers side. I can't remember what it is, but I think it's an allen key. Make sure you can undo that first. Then on the bottom of the box is another bung, which is the drain bung. Again, I think it's an allen key. Take that out, drain oil, replace drain bung, fill box up, replace filler bung.
I can't remember what oil goes in it as well. Some homework for you there.
To change it, there's a filler bung halfway up the gearbox on the drivers side. I can't remember what it is, but I think it's an allen key. Make sure you can undo that first. Then on the bottom of the box is another bung, which is the drain bung. Again, I think it's an allen key. Take that out, drain oil, replace drain bung, fill box up, replace filler bung.
I can't remember what oil goes in it as well. Some homework for you there.
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Brianmoooore
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Specified oil is a GL4 SAE 80, BUT a common solution to a box that is difficult to get into gear when cold is to use Dextron ATF instead, as used in E30 auto boxes, and BMW manual boxes from the E36 onwards.
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Shiz
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Thanks guys for the input. Would any of use recommend this redline brand ? apparently its like day and night ? Ive heard of that Dextron stuff Brian, I presume that's recommend for the M40 boxes?.. I understand there like a 17mm allen key head bungs, however why do you need to remove both ?.. And refilling again, is there a transmission container like a clutch or brake container is in the engine bay, or how do you know where to fill to ?.. Can you get that redline stuff in the UK ? or is it US based. Sorry for the leam questions, but every bit helps out guys. Thanks
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Brianmoooore
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Nothing special about Redline oil - just over hyped Yank stuff.
ATF can be used in boxes on both M40 and M20 engined cars, if they are difficult to get into gear when cold, and you're certain the problem isn't a dragging clutch. It lubricates every bit as good as the SAE 80, but will exaggerate any rattles the box may have.
Two bungs - one to let the old oil out at the bottom, and one half way up the side to fill it. Easier to have two than to turn the car on its side to fill!
You simply fill up to the level of the filler plug with the car level. When oil starts to flow back out of the bung, it's time to stop filling.
ATF can be used in boxes on both M40 and M20 engined cars, if they are difficult to get into gear when cold, and you're certain the problem isn't a dragging clutch. It lubricates every bit as good as the SAE 80, but will exaggerate any rattles the box may have.
Two bungs - one to let the old oil out at the bottom, and one half way up the side to fill it. Easier to have two than to turn the car on its side to fill!
You simply fill up to the level of the filler plug with the car level. When oil starts to flow back out of the bung, it's time to stop filling.
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capnmchl
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And you undo the top one first incase it doesn't want to move. No good having a gearbox with no oil in it which you can't fill up.
I think it's more a problem with the diff's than the gearboxes though.
I think it's more a problem with the diff's than the gearboxes though.
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Brianmoooore
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They'll undo easier with the box nice and hot, and the oil'll drain out quicker as well.
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Shiz
- E30 Zone Newbie

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cool
ive only changed the clutch slave and master cylinder and the fluid.. Id say by the looks of the fluid it is well past its sell by date. capnmchl id say by that piece of advice you are speaking from experience, yeah I hope to soak in wd40 before I tackle it.. Any way to completely flush the old stuff out ? other than using excessive amount of ATF fluid?
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capnmchl
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Nope, a selection of decent tools that fit well, common sense and a good feel for when something is going to round off or shear leads means I rarely break or round out bolts.
Just common sense ain't it? Although as I said, it applies more to the diff bungs than the gearbox bungs.
Just common sense ain't it? Although as I said, it applies more to the diff bungs than the gearbox bungs.
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Shiz
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Has anyone actually used the ATF in a manual box, that is used in the automatic's? went to the local factors today and they recommend 80-90 and said they wouldn't put anything that isn't recommended by the computer lol. I said that the automatic fluid seems to go better in the manual boxes, due to it being thinner and heating up quicker. Is there any consequences to using automatic fluid ? I don't want a hole handling. Thanks guys
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Rtaylor2208
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If Brian recommends it then i would take it that its tried and tested as he knows his E30's
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Brianmoooore
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Brianmoooore wrote:It lubricates every bit as good as the SAE 80, but will exaggerate any rattles the box may have.
