Need technical Q/A then you're in the right place
Moderator: martauto
-
jimbom30cab
- Tech 1 freak
- Posts: 7634
- Joined: Mon Oct 12, 2009 11:00 pm
- Location: in the garage
Tue Apr 23, 2013 8:49 pm
hi
removing the torx bolts for the drive shafts and the first one sheared straight off, GUTTED !!
So then removed the 4 bolts off that flange and i still can't get the drive shaft off
any idea what options i have now ?
thanks, help most appreciated
jim

-
Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 49359
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Tue Apr 23, 2013 9:32 pm
You don't need to remove the four bolts to pull the drive flange out! Get them back in. It's just held in by a snap ring, and levers out, but the problem you have is getting enough room for it to come all the way out and clear the diff. casing.
Options: Unbolt the other shaft, unbolt the diff. and move it away from the broken bolt side as you lower it.
Dismantle the suspension on this side, unbolt the trailing arm, and move it out far enough for the drive flange to clear the diff case.
VERY carefully cut the remainder of the head of the bolt off with a disc cutter. The 'reinforcement' tab will get destroyed, but will protect the surface of the flange.
The next time you do a job like this, get some WD40 or similar on there beforehand.
-
HJG-E30
- E30 Zone Regular

- Posts: 557
- Joined: Sat Dec 05, 2009 11:00 pm
- Location: West Sussex
Tue Apr 23, 2013 9:34 pm
I'd remove the opposite driveshaft, remove the nuts holding the prop to the input flange, remove the bolts securing the diff to the subframe, remove the diff bush bolt, and maneuver the diff sideways away from offending driveshaftt
-
HJG-E30
- E30 Zone Regular

- Posts: 557
- Joined: Sat Dec 05, 2009 11:00 pm
- Location: West Sussex
Tue Apr 23, 2013 9:36 pm
Brain & I must've been typing at the same time there!
-
jimbom30cab
- Tech 1 freak
- Posts: 7634
- Joined: Mon Oct 12, 2009 11:00 pm
- Location: in the garage
Tue Apr 23, 2013 9:41 pm
thanks guys, i hope i can get the other side torx flange bolts off
i appreciate what you said here
get some WD40
Brian as i've done this trick many times but i honestly don't think it would have made any difference here, these bolts are mega mega tight.
i'll soak the other side though
-
jimbom30cab
- Tech 1 freak
- Posts: 7634
- Joined: Mon Oct 12, 2009 11:00 pm
- Location: in the garage
Tue Apr 23, 2013 9:49 pm
Yer the later cars used torx like the gear box bolts , they are complete sh1t
-
Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 49359
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Tue Apr 23, 2013 9:56 pm
jimbom30cab wrote:Yer the later cars used torx like the gear box bolts , they are complete sh1t
Hex bolts weren't too clever either! I've had a few of them round off on me. I find the torx ones better - they can force the driver backwards and slip if you're not careful, but I've never seen one shear off like that!
-
jimbom30cab
- Tech 1 freak
- Posts: 7634
- Joined: Mon Oct 12, 2009 11:00 pm
- Location: in the garage
Tue Apr 23, 2013 10:21 pm
I know it might sound like the nuclear option but would it be easier to replace the entire rear beam if I had a spare complete with everything ?
I've got no exhaust or prop on the car at the moment and its a cab
-
samuraibaz
- E30 Zone Newbie

- Posts: 241
- Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 11:00 pm
- Location: Kent
Wed Apr 24, 2013 12:12 pm
if all else fails remove wot torqs u can & cut the heads off the dodgy 1s with a cutting disc so u can sparate then its penetrating oil/coca cola & some vicegrips to remove the rest of the bolt
-
Topblag
- Old Skooler

- Posts: 7095
- Joined: Wed Jul 30, 2008 11:00 pm
- Location: Fife - You got a problem with that ?
Wed Apr 24, 2013 12:28 pm
I'd suggest putting an Irvin remover onto the sheared one. They've worked miracles for me in the past after the hot spanner and before the grinder.
1990 325i Cab auto in Alpine White II
1988 Alpina C2.5 moredoor in Black, 71k
1990 325ix, moredoor auto in Laser Blue. 51k
1984 Hartge H35 in Black
2004 996 C4S in Silver 43k manual
2006 Audi S6 V10 in Black 58k
-
daimlerman
- **BANNED**
- Posts: 15968
- Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2006 11:00 pm
- Location: Grumpy Old Man
Wed Apr 24, 2013 12:47 pm
Seem to remember that when I swapped the diff on my first touring(a 93 K plate),I had three of those male torx bolts lose their fins.I ended up slicing their heads of with my angle grinder and replaced the swines with stainless Allen headed bolts.
Following this,I now routinely swap these torx bolts out!
Youth is wasted on the young.
-
Sanchez
- Married to the E30 Zone

- Posts: 7578
- Joined: Sun Apr 17, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Sunny Scotland
Wed Apr 24, 2013 12:54 pm
Topblag wrote:I'd suggest putting an Irvin remover onto the sheared one. They've worked miracles for me in the past after the hot spanner and before the grinder.
+1
-
DanThe
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 28644
- Joined: Sat Sep 10, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Staffs
-
Contact:
Wed Apr 24, 2013 3:30 pm
jimbom30cab wrote:hi
removing the torx bolts for the drive shafts and the first one sheared straight off, GUTTED !!
So then removed the 4 bolts off that flange and i still can't get the drive shaft off
any idea what options i have now ?
thanks, help most appreciated
jim

Bolt that side cover back into the diff, push the output shaft back in, cut the head off that bolt in situ and pull the CV off the ouput as much as possible, then cut the bolt off short if you need to which will let you swing the drive shaft down away from the diff.
WD40 wont make a blind bit of difference here, a good fitting socket is what counts
-
jimbom30cab
- Tech 1 freak
- Posts: 7634
- Joined: Mon Oct 12, 2009 11:00 pm
- Location: in the garage
Wed Apr 24, 2013 4:10 pm
will do, but i have a feeling the other flippin bolts will shear off also
slight problem with the socket, the old head is well and truly stuck inside as i hammered the socket onto the torx bolt to ensure a v tight fit.
need to pop to halfrauds to get another.
cheers Dan and everyone else.
I've found a complete rear sub frame with no diff, so i think i'll fit my new diff to that and then fit the whole subframe to the car in one go. Whilst out i'll get the lot powder coated and the bushes changed.
-
daimlerman
- **BANNED**
- Posts: 15968
- Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2006 11:00 pm
- Location: Grumpy Old Man
Wed Apr 24, 2013 5:06 pm
If you are working at home with the car on axle stands it is easier to re-build a bit at a time.
Axle carrier
Diff
Trailing arms
Youth is wasted on the young.
-
winx
- E30 Zone Camper

- Posts: 1099
- Joined: Wed Jul 30, 2008 11:00 pm
- Location: almost certainly not working on my E30...
Wed Apr 24, 2013 10:26 pm
Jim,
Contrary to the above I actually found it easier to assemble everything including diff onto the ream beam. Then lift one end up and slide the jack under the diff and lift the whole lot in as one. A little precarious but I hate lying on the floor for a long time so this was quickest and easiest for me!
Each to there own though.
-
jimbom30cab
- Tech 1 freak
- Posts: 7634
- Joined: Mon Oct 12, 2009 11:00 pm
- Location: in the garage
Wed Apr 24, 2013 10:32 pm
Thanks Henry , it does sound easier that way to me. I don't think mine will look as good as yours though
