First E30

[ThomasBellamy]

Here's my first E30 bought off an E30 member. Got her home and gave it a proper clean inside and out + a polish...

Came with bottle tops but sourced a good set of bbs and whacked a load of brand new tyres on.

Body work is in mainly good condition, most of the electrics are knackered, a bit of rot under the towing eye and under the battery tray in the boot. suspected drivers rotten foot well. Too scared to look under the carpets. Rot will be tackled at some point with rot cut out and new metal put in. Little bit of rust on the arches.

Engine is nice and strong.

Got a lot of plans for this one lots needs doing on it! stay tuned!

[aimlessrock]

Nice looking turd mate.

[zd3bx]

Looks well clean from a distance

[Speedtouch]

Smart. Being an E-reg, it will probably have the high compression 25 6E engine, combined with the later Motronic 1.3 engine management, so you get the best of both worlds in terms of performance.

[Rav335uk]

Looks clean.
No where's Pete?

[polsta]

looks nice good purchase, 2 door 325i`s like that are getting thinnner on the ground these days

[G-Bear]

Looking forward to seeing some progress.. Get the rot sorted first.. the rest is nuts and bolts.. and swearing.

[G-Bear]

Looking forward to seeing some progress.. Get the rot sorted first.. the rest is nuts and bolts.. and swearing.

[darkchild]

Nice little project there

[Chris_B86]

Looks well, as said sort out the issues, then after that, I think an iS lip, an Eibach Pro Kit, and shadow line kit would set that off nicely

[scott180gtb]

Looking forward to seeing some progress.. Get the rot sorted first.. the rest is nuts and bolts.. and swearing.

Agreed. Get the carpets out quick for a full assement.

Not bad at all for your first 30.

[ThomasBellamy]

Cheers. Looks Like I will have to make the rotten bits a priority.

Water was getting in to the battery tray and underneath, I'm suspecting, due to a split in the boot seal on that side, so that's on my shopping list. Is there any other common areas where water manages to get in around here?

I have some photos of the rust underneath the battery tray in the boot which I'll be uploading, it looks like this has been an ongoing problem as there seems to be a dodgy filler job done in the past here, a hole about the size of an apple and some pink bubblegum looking filler stuffed in.

There is some rust visible on the drivers side sill and just underneath theres some orange poking its way through the black underseal. Also around the bottom of the accelerator pedal theres a bit of orange dust coming through... I'll get the carpets up this weekend for a proper look and will post some photos. I will be making this a priority and getting this sorted within the next few weeks.

Some good news, I managed to replace a blown bulb on the drivers side interior light...

That's one job down I guess.

[polsta]

you may not need to take carpets right out- front seats (4 bolts) the sill trimms and speaker panels, under dash panel+ lower glove box , just a few clps etc take 5 mins- then you can lift the carpets up from each side, prop them up with something,and have a good look - the front drivers corner is probably the jacking pads, rotten corner basicly- i had one done once with car in state as mentioned- and a mobile welder had it all sorted in an hour and didnt cost much, it may "look" good at glance, but poke a screwdriver right in te corner it will go through, or it may be totaly rotten there, its not a big one to fix , and whilst the panel/glove box are off a chance to have a loook up above at the bulkhead- and look for brown stains comming down, particularly on the glove box side at the big rubber grommet there and other brackets

have a good look at the rear footwell bungs, they may have been done , or may need doing or not, they let in water if so- biug round bungs in the middle of rear footwell, you can lift the carpet up in the back to check them very easy

[DanThe]

As its your first, I would say get some driving done before you start pulling it to bits, you may uncover things that make you think "why the f00k did I take it apart" etc etc

[ThomasBellamy]

Looks well, as said sort out the issues, then after that, I think an iS lip, an Eibach Pro Kit, and shadow line kit would set that off nicely

Gona go for H+R cup kit, 35mm lowered.

[Rtaylor2208]

As its your first, I would say get some driving done before you start pulling it to bits, you may uncover things that make you think "why the f00k did I take it apart" etc etc

Thats a very good point from Dan. I bought mine almost 3 years ago and its only done 1000 miles. I spend more time replacing old shagged out parts on it than I do driving.

But one day (some time in the next 20 years) it will be finished and I'll actually enjoy driving it.

[Chris_B86]

Looks well, as said sort out the issues, then after that, I think an iS lip, an Eibach Pro Kit, and shadow line kit would set that off nicely

Gona go for H+R cup kit, 35mm lowered.

I have the same, but the 60/40 kit

[capnmchl]

As its your first, I would say get some driving done before you start pulling it to bits, you may uncover things that make you think "why the f00k did I take it apart" etc etc

Thats a very good point from Dan. I bought mine almost 3 years ago and its only done 1000 miles. I spend more time replacing old shagged out parts on it than I do driving.

But one day (some time in the next 20 years) it will be finished and I'll actually enjoy driving it.

You hope

[ThomasBellamy]

Got a couple of bits working over the last couple of weeks,

The passenger side electric window now works, motor screw was jammed up, just took the motor off and reseated it and works a treat, replaced a few blown fuses and a blown interior bulb.

List of jobs that needs doing:

Replace cigarette lighter,
install missing glove box switch and lamp,
figure out why the rear demister doesn't work,
Replace missing relays,
solder back together broken wire to the auto gear selector bulb also replace this bulb,
Replace passenger side window switch which doesn't illuminate,
Replace missing extending aerial,
Replace heater blower motor.
Diagnose why the aux fan is not switching to high mode. (possible missing relay??)

As far as I can tell that's what needs doing on the electrical side of things these will all get done in the next couple of weeks as parts arrive.

Other Jobs planned for May:

-Replace lock cylinder on drivers side
-Replace various bits of cracked and broken/split trim/seals
-SE skirts on,
-Take out the surface rust on the rear arches seal, fill + respray.
-Take out a couple bits of surface rust on inner arches and reseal,
-Go over the body with a fine tooth comb and repair all stone chips and there are remove small spots of surface rust here and there where stone chips have been left untreated by the previous owner.
-Install H+R cup kit 35mm lowered + replace suspension rubber bits

Other than that other plans for the summer include:

-Rust hunt + cut out and weld in new steel as needed,
-A full and thorough inspection and service parts replaced as needed,
-New pads and discs, inspection of the brake lines and replaced if needed,
-Replace handbrake cable,
-Replace Interior with SE leather,
-Auto to manual conversion,
-Sound proof the floor pans, up the firewall and doors to reduce road noise,
-Install some killer ICE.

I'm sure a lot more jobs will be added to the list as I go as I am quite new to cars and am learning as I go.

All of this work will culminate in a proper full respray either by the end of the year or the beginning of next.


Also I have a couple of questions if anyone could help?

In regards to surface rust treatment, I am planning to carefully sand/dremel the rust off, treat with jenolite to get the awkward bits off + to treat the clean surface, prime and paint, is this ok procedure for surface rust removal? If anyone has got any suggestions for this bit they'd like to share with me... I'm all ears.

Also what is a good product to use for sealing the inner arches up??

[Rich320I]

good list of jobs to be getting on with there bud,

RE the heater blower, it could well just requite removal and re greasing, as they were installed on dry bearings and these tend to seize up over time.

the rear demister most likely doesn't work as the metal contacts on the actual screen could be broken, its easier to just get a known working rear screen IMO.

looks a nice project

[ThomasBellamy]

good list of jobs to be getting on with there bud,

RE the heater blower, it could well just requite removal and re greasing, as they were installed on dry bearings and these tend to seize up over time.

the rear demister most likely doesn't work as the metal contacts on the actual screen could be broken, its easier to just get a known working rear screen IMO.

looks a nice project

Cheers mate,

I've already had the heater motor out and inspection showed broken/missing blades. A new ones already on order.

If it turns out I need to replace the rear windshield, what kind of price would I be looking at for a replacement?

[Rich320I]

depends who you get one off bud, i paid £35 from midlands BM for one last year sometime. its the fittign and removal that can be abit of a pain. theres a guide on the wiki though

where abouts in the world are you? midlands Bm are based in brum, but theres some very reasonable chaps round these parts for bits.

[ThomasBellamy]

Im in SE London/Dartford, Kent area

[ThomasBellamy]

Here's some pictures of areas of concern:


O/S rear arch:





N/S rear arch:



crusty arches plus some evidence of a rear bumper replacement some time in the past:



Some pics at the rear:







More pics to follow

[oomz1975]

If that's all the rust spots there are, then it shouldn't be too painful do deal with.

By the way, that to-do list including a full respray, is pretty much what happens when the e30 obsession kicks in...

[jimbom30cab]

I would think very carefully about the advice Dan gave. Surface rust is like the tip of the ice berg. I did a very similar resto job to my cab which took 2 years and cost about 4k. There is a lot to be said for just keeping it on the road

Enjoy it

[ThomasBellamy]

If that's all the rust spots there are, then it shouldn't be too painful do deal with.

By the way, that to-do list including a full respray, is pretty much what happens when the e30 obsession kicks in...

But wait! ... there's more


Small Passenger side door scab complete with dodgy cover job


Tiny Little bit of scab on drivers door complete with multiple chips to the edge, one of the previous owners was obviously a fan of opening the doors onto o
objects and causing damage to it



Passenger side door hinge, small scab



dont know what you call this panel in the Boot? , o/s



...more to follow...

[ThomasBellamy]

passenger side





Driver's side




missing 'jacking pad'?





that's the worst of it seen from the surface. I'm not about to take the car to bit's rather I'm going to keep it on the road an do jobs one at a time on weekends/evenings in my mates garage. I've got the dremel 3000 and am ordering a mig on the weekend and hopefully get cracking with some rust treatment in May. I've currently got the car hiding under a car cover and won't be driving in the rain, hopefully can get it in a garage asap.

[ThomasBellamy]

I'm now thinking just to dremel the worst of the rust away on the sills and underbody, splash on some jenolite followed by a liberal application of hammerite and then covering with side skirts, shut my eyes and put my fingers in my ears enjoy the car whilst saving up a couple of bags and getting the body work done properly in a body shop later on down the line.

betetr idea than buying a welder and cracking on straight away?

[capri_rob]

Nice looking motor

[ThomasBellamy]

I'm now thinking just to dremel the worst of the rust away on the sills and underbody, splash on some jenolite followed by a liberal application of hammerite and then covering with side skirts, shut my eyes and put my fingers in my ears enjoy the car whilst saving up a couple of bags and getting the body work done properly in a body shop later on down the line.

betetr idea than buying a welder and cracking on straight away?

Scrap that, I peeked under the drivers foot well and just as suspected it is rotten. welding it is then.

[pnd]

will be decent when finished the cup kit will make it fun to drive the H+R anti roll bars are great too.

[polsta]

I'm now thinking just to dremel the worst of the rust away on the sills and underbody, splash on some jenolite followed by a liberal application of hammerite and then covering with side skirts, shut my eyes and put my fingers in my ears enjoy the car whilst saving up a couple of bags and getting the body work done properly in a body shop later on down the line.

betetr idea than buying a welder and cracking on straight away?

to be fair, it looks quite crusty, but not real rotten, but as jimbo says above- once you starft hunting, things are tips of the ice burg, by the looks of your car all the sealant under arches and stuff all needs taking back, welding done, then re sealed etc, the rear arches- rust forms inside the lip of quarter and inner arch, rots from inside to out , its never just surface rust ,if you take it back and paint- it will only be a very temp measure and probably start to bubble back up after a winter

a full job, with a re spray and everything, can and will cost thousands, you may love the car but ask if its worth it, you could patch your one up as your post there to get it nice enough, and enjoy driving it like that but if you do that theres no point getting it re sprayed at a large cost, if all work isnt done properly underneath with proper new arches etc

[ThomasBellamy]

I'm now thinking just to dremel the worst of the rust away on the sills and underbody, splash on some jenolite followed by a liberal application of hammerite and then covering with side skirts, shut my eyes and put my fingers in my ears enjoy the car whilst saving up a couple of bags and getting the body work done properly in a body shop later on down the line.

betetr idea than buying a welder and cracking on straight away?

to be fair, it looks quite crusty, but not real rotten, but as jimbo says above- once you starft hunting, things are tips of the ice burg, by the looks of your car all the sealant under arches and stuff all needs taking back, welding done, then re sealed etc, the rear arches- rust forms inside the lip of quarter and inner arch, rots from inside to out , its never just surface rust ,if you take it back and paint- it will only be a very temp measure and probably start to bubble back up after a winter

a full job, with a re spray and everything, can and will cost thousands, you may love the car but ask if its worth it, you could patch your one up as your post there to get it nice enough, and enjoy driving it like that but if you do that theres no point getting it re sprayed at a large cost, if all work isnt done properly underneath with proper new arches etc

Yer I hear you man. The worst of the rust is in the driver's foot well as far as I can see. I have had the carpets up briefly on the rear passenger foot wells and all seems solid, all be it with some trapped moisture that is obviously compounding the problem. I need to get the seats and carpets all out for a full assessment asap and the drivers footwell rot cut out and welded up. Front wings will come off at one point too for an assessment but I'm pretty sure I won't find any surprises here, at least I hope.

Saying all that though the scuttle, inner arches, roof, pillars, doors, inside the boot (apart from the small patches pictured and under the battery tray), battery tray inside the bonnet, front arches are all solid, so I definitely think it is worth repairing as much as can be done with this

The problem with the rotten drivers footwell has been a long term problem with this car I think as evidenced by the dodgy repaint and welding evidence on the sills so needs to be redone properly to cure the problem instead of a lash job.

I've taken on board what people have said and I think the idea of a full respray will probably be shelved for now and money used for a better motor down the line but I will treat this as a learning curve and get my prepping, welding, sprayign skills down for bigger and better things.

[aimlessrock]

Thomas, the rot is not that bad...mine was in a far worse state that that. Polsta has a point, a full resto is costly if undertaken correctly.

If you plan on keeping the car long term, (imho its worth restoring) start chiping away at it over the summer and do the bits as and when you can afford.

It took me 3 years to save and have bits done to my cabby, but its now properly sorted.

If your up for a project, you now have one.!